what he said. it's a chopper, none of this shit needs to be overly practical. but it'll look cool as fuck and you'll be the only one with one and that's the point is it not.
I've only heard that is for little stuff like filling pits and crap, not big sections.
You don't want to powdercoat the frame. if for whatever reason the molding cracks and then cracks the powdercoat (and that is very likley), you have to re do the entire thing. It's better to sand and scuff the existing finish, knock down the areas that are cracking and need re-doing, and then shooting flake and candy over it. Even if it does crack and you can't touch up the candy, you can still do things like fades over the top that you can't do with powder.
I still say make it run first. There are lots of things on that bike that need re-eval and redoing (like the wiring) that you might want to take a different approach on. for instance, I never liked that some of the wires run inside lower frame rails with zip ties where they are still visible, and some of the wires that run through the frame do so without gromets at the entry and exit holes. I also didn't like that the fake oil tank/electics box was open at the bottom, and honestly if I were going to mod something it would have been to add louvers to that because the flat metal sheet, even chromed, looked boring.
you and I talked yesterday about this - don't do mag wheels. Clean up the wheels you have and keep the spokes. If you want to go disc then I have a 75 cbF disc brake hub you can have to lace to a drop center 16" harley rim, just pick it up next time you are in NY.
while we are talking about it, One thing I always wanted to do was get rid of the hill holder mini-drum and go to a proper disc brake front. When I had the bike only one company made disc brake setups for those narrow jammer/paughco style springers - GMA - and the kits were like $500. Now they are about $350-$380 and there are a couple of guys like fabricator kevin, Paughco, and TC bros that make similar setups. I don't know what wheel you have to use with it but you'll figure it out.
Fuck that front drum, because the brake stay is not able to be installed correctly.
Im not a fan of discs on this type of bike.
If it was not certain death, I would run a spool up front.
The roto phase is a Model A dizzy.
Cool piece, but never looked into getting rebuilt parts for it.
Honestly I just can never seem to muster more then 2 days every 6-9 months to even think about working on the bike.
It is rather strange. I very much love the look, and think it would be fun as the third bike.....and I know if I saw a semi local CL add for it I would fall over my dick to go buy it.
But now that it is sitting on my bench.......meh.
KUSTOM TECH ITALY POLISHED CUSTOM SPRINGER FRONTEND BRACKET AND 2 PISTON CALIPER 03-200 AND 03-310
viciouscycleworks.us
I think you need a narrowglide wheel and 11.5: rotor for it to work. The cost is the thing that holds it back, but if you are crafty you can use a ducati rear caliper like this guy did:
Buckman50 had mentioned in hammerweight's drum brake thread about using a Per. Machine brake if he chose to go to a disc on his bike, so I thought I'd put this up here. There are a lot of springer disc brake kit options out there if you choose to go with a wide glide-type hub. But, I wanted to...
Meh, Figured it was best to crack on a little bit right now. It it literally my only project bike, I have a garage and a nice work shop. I am out of excuses.
Honestly I found myself looking for "the next thing" and it dawned on me....IF the Chopper was on CL right now I would be falling over myself to buy it. So why not actually do something with it?
I was reading a thread on fabricating a tank that was written by a really talented guy, who was also great at explaining the process. He had terrific labeling of photos that weren't there anymore. It felt like some dipshit had torn the last page from the novel I was reading.
The sad state of a once proud motorcycle.
Have finally decided to actually put some effort into this thing. Enough messing around.
Figured it was winter and it literally is my only project bike, so why not?
Going to start by focusing on the engine. For those without multi year memories, the original motor had the cam chain tensioner let go. It is a good chance to give the one thing this death trap needs, more HP.
-592cc pistons
-big cam
-Ported heat with larger valves
Should get us off to a good start
Had wanted to use CB750 pistons, but moving away from that plan. At this point I just want the thing to work. No need to mess around with vintage ideas.
Cleaning the cases to get them ready for assembly and paint.
Need to order a couple of parts, but the head is already back from the machine shop.
Going to get a couple of the chrome bits together and figure out how to get them refinished. There is guy in Syracuse and a place in CT that look promising.
On the motogadget, Used them a good few times on lots of builds.
Amazing bits of kit.
On this build though its 100% not needed especially if you're not going to be doing indicators, starter motors or other normal road oriented electrics.
If you are going for all the electrics you would find on a normal road bike then its worth it.
I have said it time and time before on here though.
Don't wright off the motogadget m-unit just because hipsters use them.
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