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any tips? very very light rusting in the tank and a few dabs of dry paintstripper that got inside when i stripped the paint.
 

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i use concrete etcher and slosh it around for about 20 minutes. then pour out. Right after that i spray a good amount of wd40 in the tank to stop it from flash rusting.
 

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A little light ratio mix if muriatic acid - swimming pool acid - concrete etcher etc and water. Let it work an hour or two. I've had good luck coating with Kreem and Por 15 after a thorough MEK rinse.- but LET THAT STUFF CURE FOR A WEEK before putting fuel in tank. I have a Kreem'd tank that is still fine after 3 years. You don't need to coat if you don't want to. I never keep fuel in tanks that are on idle bikes. But I don't live in a high humidity area either. Good idea spraying a little WD in there.
 

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you didn't ask the best liner although I'll assume you meant to...

Seal Pack

gawd awful expensive and will do something Kreem and POR types won't do

stand up to all fuels and engine oils

goes in as virtually a heavy bladder than you'd just about think could stand alone sans sheet metal

it's used by the Aviation Industry and is Mil Spec

not for the faint of wallet and it is wickedly hazardous to your health

like all liners, best results are obtained in low humidity conditions as even tiny bits of golden surface scale appearing prior to applying liner will undermine your efforts

btw... if doing POR.... never chase the rinse water out with Acetone, not sure about MEK but even minute traces of acetone will provide very unhappy results with POR

I did it with the Wurth clone of POR and it made me quite unhappy to have to cut open a complicated stainless tank I made and remove the spongey stuff that reminded me of forever rising bread dough
 

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BB's, blankets and dryer on cool air setting. ive used it on my triumph tank. seal the tank up good, stuff the tank in the dryer wrapped in blankets or pillows or whatever yourr GF will let you use, turn it on whatever setting you have that doesnt use heat. i used this method because i wanted to keep the paint on the tank in good condition. i was a little worried about small dents but never got any. you can line the tank after if you want but i didnt. i just keep gas in it so it wont rust. BBs are also alot cheaper than the chemical kits you can buy and chemicals can destroy paint.
 

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In a pinch, a 2 liter bottle of 7up and a handful of screw, nuts, and bolts. Shake like crazy. Empty. Slosh a little gas in there, empty again. Then fill it up.

Or...

Take it to a radiator repair place. They have tanks of a pretty nasty acid solution, they'll dunk it for you, but you'll definitely loose your paint, along with whatever rust is going on.
 

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Speaking of tank coatings... does anyone have experience with the Caswell epoxy? Everything I have heard or read about it has been good. Here is what they say in their literature, and I quote' "This Epoxy has much better bond strength than single component products, with strengths of up to 3000 PSI, and this higher strength reduces the need for a clinically clean surface, as the epoxy actually prefers to bond to a rough rusty surface."

Just wondering if the stuff lives up to the hype.

I did my Triumph tank with Kreem, and it was crap. I then had it redone professionally (I don't know exactly what they used) and then it was great.
 

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i've used the Caswell. It is a 2 part empoxy that goes in thick like syrup. makes it hard to coat every square inch. it hardens to a brick and has zero flexibility. that means that if you get a dent, or somehow cause the tank to flex at all, the coating cracks and then lets gas behind it. You won't notice this happened on a metal tank that doesn't leak. but you will notice it on a fiberglass tank because the fuel will lead to the resin dissolving and bad things happening. Unless of course your fiberglass tank is made with epoxy like my tank from Tannermatic, instead of resin!

but the caswell stuff can survive modern fuels without a problem. Its just too brittle and stiff.
 

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i've used the Caswell. It is a 2 part empoxy that goes in thick like syrup. makes it hard to coat every square inch. it hardens to a brick and has zero flexibility. that means that if you get a dent, or somehow cause the tank to flex at all, the coating cracks and then lets gas behind it. You won't notice this happened on a metal tank that doesn't leak. but you will notice it on a fiberglass tank because the fuel will lead to the resin dissolving and bad things happening. Unless of course your fiberglass tank is made with epoxy like my tank from Tannermatic, instead of resin!

but the caswell stuff can survive modern fuels without a problem. Its just too brittle and stiff.
 

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Plug the petcock port.
1/2 pint to a pint of phosphoric acid.
Fill tank to top with water.
Depending on degree of rust, half an hour to a couple.
Dump.
Neutralize with a base. I think the Kreem kit has something similar to acetone.
Coat it, WD40 it, and/or get gas in it fast.
 

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Plug the petcock port.
1/2 pint to a pint of phosphoric acid.
Fill tank to top with water.
Depending on degree of rust, half an hour to a couple.
Dump.
Neutralize with a base. I think the Kreem kit has something similar to acetone.
Coat it, WD40 it, and/or get gas in it fast.
 

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Methyl ethyl ketone, that's the neutralizer in the Kreem kit.
 

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Methyl ethyl ketone, that's the neutralizer in the Kreem kit.
 

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ive heard the kreem liner has a tendency to flake and it can be worse than rust.
 

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ive heard the kreem liner has a tendency to flake and it can be worse than rust.
 
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