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Discussion Starter #1
i have two issues! maybe a kinda soul can help out a first timer here. i have a 1973 honda cb360. i whent ahead flipped my handlebars and other little odds and ends, but now that i flipped my bars im having the throttle cabel stuck or hard to pull. especially when i have the wheel turned, not i do think that the cabels are binding up due to them being long. i know shorting them will do the trick but did anyone else have this issue?

and now for my clutch cable. i have a clue but need to put this out there. since i flipped my bars ive had the clutch lever stick back when i squeeze it. and now along with this issue when i fix unstick the cable i go to kick start my bike and its not grabbing. just strait down no nothing. but if i tamper with the cable a bit and set it back into a position i then get the grab i need to kick start. any advice will be greatly appreciated thanks
 

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This isn't an answer, just a comment: Personally, I loathe flipped handlebars. Not only do they not look right, they're also extremely uncomfortable because they don't usually have the right angle. A direct consequence of this is that causes you to put your weight on the outside of your hands (closer to your pinkies) rather than evenly distributed amongst the width of your hands, or at least on the inside of your hands (closer to your thumbs). This is bad.

Apparently, it causes cable problems too...
 

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clack sound under the cover and weird clutch action is badly adjusted clutch. 3 places to adjust - do in right order and it will be fine. Get the manual and read the right procedure.

and I agree - flipped bars are dumb and look dumb.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
okay. well these are clubman bars! hense why i flipped them. they arent the stock ones. those are a wide hadle if im not mistaken. now that we cleared that issue, to my next thing i will be buying a manuel and adj my clutch cable word for word out of the manuel, as far as the throttle cables, is this a normal accorance, can i get shorter cables made or buy them someplace?
 

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No such thing as a 1973 Honda CB360.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
btw if u read my post carefully i was asking if anyone had this issue before? i know u can get shorter cables made, i understand all this. i did do research prior posting this post. i was just curious if anyone had this issue and how other owners went about with this.
 

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quote:*I'm having the throttle *cable stuck or hard to pull. especially when i have the wheel turned
Check where the single cable splits to two - just about under the tank at the top motor mount. Mine was hanging up there until I re-routed it. Make sure there isn't slack 9when turning the handlebar) causing the end of the cable to come out of the perch at the lever. I've seen that happen too.

Same thing with the clutch cable. Try different routing. Between the carburetors, up the right side of the motor mount, through the triple tree...
 

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CB360 doesn't have split cable (that would be CB350, which makes my prior comment revelant, and not just mean-spiritedness - if the bike is really a '73, it would be a CB350). CB360 has 2 completely separate push/pull cables that operate a linkage connected to both carbs. I did read carefully, and can't figure out if you have upside down clubmans (in which case one would think longer cables would be in order, not shorter). How about posting a picture?
I have had similar throttle sticking issues (on an old Triumph) which I recall were binding, due to routing issues.
I think (based on what little information I was able to glean from your egregious grammar/punctuation/spelling) that your cables are binding because they're too short, they need to be lubed & adjusted properly.
 

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It's cable routing
On my 360's I'm running clip-on's with stock 'pull' cable and zero issues
I haven't used 'push' cables since the 70's on my own bikes
You have to run throttle cables down left side of frme with lower bars
The clutch adjustment is a little tight somewhere, probably on cable , screw has to be done first with cable backed off
Run clutch cable down right side of frame or the bends are too tight
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Okay. Sorry about the incorrect typo bs. I was using my work computer and keys stick and its a pain to use. So I short spell. But any way. I figured out my issue with the clutch. The roller ball pushes out on a thing that is attached to the cable/ there are ball seats on it and it looks like it hes little ramp like grooves worn on it. So now the balls roll over the holes causing a pop noise. When the bars were flopped I pulled the upper trees off and put the cables under that. So I am assuming I made a mistake doing that. Ill re rout everything tonight and get new clutch parts this week. Thanks guys :p
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just so every one knows. This bike was rapped at one point. It has a Kawasaki title for frame. Plates match title. With cb360 motor and other parts. Flound out when I got title. The original Color of the tank and air covers was the dark green Wichita I was told is rare. Correct me if Im wrong. But I plan to paint it back to that if I can.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ive been searching for a clutch lever actuator. anyone have any good links to were i can buy one? ill get pics up soon of my mix breed
 

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Can you post pic?
I'm pretty sure what you described is normal surface for 360 clutch lifter mech
 

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Here's what the Honda shop manual (complete with its odd sentence structure) says:

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The normal clutch lever free play is 10-20mm (0.4-0.8 in.) at the lever tip. To adjust the clutch perform the following steps.

1. Loosen the lock nut and turn the clutch cable upper adjuster located at the clutch lever, all the way into the clutch lever bracket.

2. Turn the clutch cable lower adjuster located at the clutch housing in direction "A" (clockwise) all the way down to loosen the clutch cable.

3. Loosen the clutch adjuster lock nut until nut is flush with set screw adjuster, turn the clutch adjuster in direction "B" (counter-clockwise) until a slight resistance is felt. From this position turn the adjuster in direction "A" (clockwise) 1/4 turn.

CAUTION: During this adjustment, allow the adjuster nut to rotate freely. If the nut is held in position during this adjustement, the nut may tighten against the cover, providing with the resistance which may throw away the adjustment.

Tighten the lock nut.

4. Turn the clutch cable lower adjuster in direction "B" (counter-clockwise) so that there is 10-20mm (0.4-0.8 in.) of the play at the clutch lever, then tighten the lock nut. Perform any subsequent minor adjustment with the clutch cable upper adjuster.

5. After the adjustment has been made, ensure that the clutch is not slipping and that the clutch is properly disengaging. After the engine starts, pull in the clutch lever and shift into gear, and ensure the engine does not stall, nor the motorcycle start to creeep. Gradually release the clutch lever and open the throttle. The motorcycle should start smoothly and accelerate gradually.

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I take issue with the "accelerate gradually" nonsense. I only do that if cops are nearby.
 

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Did you try adjusting the clutch right first? If problem arises when you are messing with cables I would def. try that first.
If its adjusted wrong at the bottom it will slip over with clacking sound even if every part was fine.
 
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