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Discussion Starter #1
I have a set of pre-drilled Emgo CB400f Superbike bars that I am attempting to install on a 1971 Cb175K5 but my controls do not align so that when installed the levers will be at the same level. The right side is a just purchased from 4 into 1 genuine honda 35250-300-033, the left side a bought several years ago similar to this: https://4into1.com/reproduction-honda-turn-signal-horn-switch-assembly-35250-300-033-cb-cl175-200-350-450-cb500-cb750/

The right side has the locater pin and the wires go into the bars while still inside the switch housing, so not much I can do there. The left is a clamp only and has a cutaway for the wires to come outside the housing, but even with the switch twisted as close to match the right side as I can get it with out being in significant danger of tearing or damaging the wires it is still a good 15 degrees off plane of where the right side is.

Does anyone know if I have an obvious incompatibility here that I am missing? If I have a defective part the left switch seems the likely culprit, but any thoughts there?

Or is has anyone had the same or similar issue and have solution or tip?

Thanks for reading any help offered.
Steven.
 

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When switching bars you will always run into issues with fitment of old parts, cables, signals etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here are a couple of pics I grabbed quickly, if there is something more meaningful you need to see let me know and I will post tonight.

The side view shows the lever tabs that should be in a line but the left is canted up about 15 degrees. The other pic shows how I already have the left twisted about as far as the wires will allow for.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When switching bars you will always run into issues with fitment of old parts, cables, signals etc...
Understood, but that is why I am asking for help finding a solution.

Also, and maybe foolish on my part, but in an effort to avoid this I stuck with Honda parts or reproductions that should be direct replacements of OEM stuff. In theory what I have should be a drop in replacement for a CB400f bar & switch set.
 

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When I switched out to clubman's on my old KZ440, I had to shave off the little nub on the inside of the throttle in order to make it fit as there was no key hole for it on the new bars like there was on the factory bars. Different bars will likely not have the same spacing or length on each side to cram everything on there. Unfortunately I don't think there is an easy answer on this one, just modify it to work. Have you fiddled around with the angle of the bars? Sometimes a slight change in the angle of the bars can make the world of difference with cable and tank clearance.

Make sure you test things out once everything is set. Start it up and see how it idles. With my KZ440 the new bars added extra pull on the throttle cable, causing it to idle high. I had to spend a while adjusting the throttle position and the idle settings on the carbs to get it right.
 

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I imagine you are routing the wires through the bars for a reason, like it's a show bike,
but from a function standpoint it really is a terrible idea.

I only had a bike like that once and I changed out the bars after the first time the mount rotated and sheared off all the wires.
ymmv Should never be an issue if you never crash or the bike falls off the stand.
 

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I don't see 400f bars fitting a 175 without modifications.

Cut off the stop. Put the bars on the bike in the position you want. Put on your controls, mark and drill wiring holes provided it doesn't affect the integrity of the bars. See if the control will stay in position without the stop, otherwise weld it back on where it needs too be. Or, find a better set of bars to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I imagine you are routing the wires through the bars for a reason, like it's a show bike,
but from a function standpoint it really is a terrible idea.

I only had a bike like that once and I changed out the bars after the first time the mount rotated and sheared off all the wires.
ymmv Should never be an issue if you never crash or the bike falls off the stand.
No, not a show bike, just hoping for a nice looking rider.

And I guess my thinking is that I haven't had a problem in 30 years of riding 70's honda CBs with stock type set ups like this. My other bike is CB550k that I rode stock for a while but about 10 years ago I swapped the bars out with an actual CB400f set and have had no issue. The bike I'm working on now is a CB175 that I have had for about 13 years with original bars and controls. It needs some work now anyway and while I have it apart I would like to change the bars to match what I have on the 550.

I'd also like to stick with my actual Honda right side switch if possible, which has the wires running straight up from the bottom half and no hole for external mounting. Yes, I could cut one and grind off the alignment pin, but I am more likely to run the right side as designed and risk it and run the left side wires externally.
 

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Honda put wires through the bars for years on all sorts of bikes. Just take your time to make the holes nice and smooth so that the cables don't chafe.
 

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Personally I've never had an issue with Honda bars and wiring running through them, in fact I prefer the cleaner look. The switches only move around if the positioning / lock pins are removed or not fitted properly. The problem may be either the aftermarket bars or the aftermarket switches. You should have checked the holes are actually symmetrical and not at different angles on either end. If thats good, check the switch pins are drilled in the correct places. I've only used genuine Honda bars if I'm getting pre-drilled. If swapping bars for something completely different, mark and drill your own holes on plain bars.
 
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