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Custom frame design comments/concernces/constructive criticism

9862 Views 66 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  sebwiers
Alright, y'all. Not sure if this belongs here or in technical, but I'm assuming this is okay.

I've got an ambitious project in the works currently. I'm a Mechanical Engineering major in my junior year at Ohio State. I've done a lot with suspension and carbon fiber molding with the Formula SAE team there so I'm not entirely out of my depth here, but we'll see how it goes. I've got an internship in Pennsylvania so over the next 8 months I'm going to start designing and building a motorcycle. First step is drawing up a 3D model of the frame. I'm posting the first draft of the design here because you all have way more experience building/modifying bikes than I do. I'm curious to get your opinions.

Does my design have any glaring errors that I'm missing? What could I improve here? Be harsh if you want, I want to make my design as good as possible. I'm mostly going to be setting it up for road racing/street driving. Good handling and feel is one of my top priorities here.

Diagram Technical drawing Design Drawing Plan


This is my recent iteration.

Thoughts/comments/concerns?
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Here, guaranteed you will find this interesting, start here and watch all of this 3 part series of videos, this will take you to part 1:
Your using a honda front end aren't you? How are the triples going to play into your KTM geometry? 100mm trail seems excessive, I believe that generally it should run in the 55 to 75mm range. What you do with the rear suspension will affect the front end geometry.
90-100 sounds right. 55 to 75 is not enough trail.

I'd say take the 390 frame shape and copy the design intent of triangulation and the stiffest straight line from headstock to swingarm pivot. 1" is probably large enough and 1.5" is too large, so your 1.25" thin wall 4130 tube should work well. Smaller diameter is fine for bracing and subframe.

And it's a light street bike so it does not have to be as strong or stiff as a frame for a 180hp race motor. Keep it light and stiff.
Couple of thoughts. Haven;t read through the thread completely yet, but...


RC390 is a great little bike and yes it handles great, but you are talking about a 300 pound bike vs something in the 400+ pounds for the ninja.
Additionally, the RC is a thumper and the top rails can be made relatively narrow and straight.

Looking at your original design, are you sure the engine can clear the top frame rails? Most of the time, that is why the rails bend around the engine.
Wondering why you even mentioned the rc390 because your bike is closer to traditional UJM frames than the triangulated modern frames.

Ideal motor for well handling lightweight bike would be narrow like a single or v twin and low in height like 2 stroke.

Kudos for you going through your exercise.

Personally, I don't think 4130 tubing adds THAT much more strength and adds some additional welding technical skills. For your first frame, you could stick with mild steel for ease. Plenty of frames out there mild steel that work great...

BTW, do you even weld, dude? (sarcasm, lol)
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I do agree with the above that you model a dummy engine and build the frame around it, rather than design a frame from scratch and fit the engine in it.

Since you obviously have skills in modeling, I would mock up a very simple engine "dummy block" and wrap the frame around that.

A close tight frame looks better anyway, than a frame with huge unnecessary gaps and spaces.
Oh, BTW, Buy this book.

The Racing Motorcycle: A Technical Guide for Constructors, Volume 1 (v. 1)

It has all the answers you need.

I need to get one before they are all gone again.
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I do agree with the above that you model a dummy engine and build the frame around it, rather than design a frame from scratch and fit the engine in it.

Since you obviously have skills in modeling, I would mock up a very simple engine "dummy block" and wrap the frame around that.

A close tight frame looks better anyway, than a frame with huge unnecessary gaps and spaces.
I'm going to see what I can do about taking a 3D scan of the engine. There are some good programs out there free to students. I'll start the second draft from there.

Thanks for the book recommendation too. I'll grab a copy. I'm sure it'll come in handy.
Not handy, If you are building a frame, the book will be your bible...
... and the stiffest straight line from headstock to swingarm pivot.
+100

Draw a line from the headstock and swingarm. Triangulate along that line to create the stiffest structure you can.
Pay additional attention to the swingarm mounting area. Look at the different designs. There is additional plating and bracing in this area. Some manufacturers even bond an aluminum structure specifically for the swingarm to the metal frame for the lightest possible weight.
a tube version of this would look pretty cool.

http://cybermotorcycle.com/gallery/bimota/images/Bimota-SB6R-naked.jpg

most things have 95 - 100mm of trail. 55 sounds a bit scary to me. i know a guy who gets everything set up to 1400mm wheelbase, 24 degree steering head angle and 100mm trail. allegedly that's what max biaggi likes. this bloke has a 76 900ss set up like that. looking at it it's just a bit odd compared to a normal one.
55 to 75 is not enough trail.
Yea, sorry about that. Thought I pulled that off the top of my head...seems it was out of my ass.

But 55 to 75mm is something:D
The CAD is necessary partially because it just is the standard for mechanical engineering at this point. It'll also let me do FEA on the tensile strength and fluid dynamics of the end product.
Fluid dynamics? On a frame? I doubt it. ;-)

oh so now you tell us you are in possesion of a donor
the plan then is an exact geometry replica ?to cover exact details like woodsman retorts
the frame you show is terrible ok ? for one thing only somebody who knows zero about structural tubing design would use such small diameter trame tubes \
the only practicle app for small dia tubing is in birdcage space frames trellis like deals
do not try anything radical unless you can spend a hundred grand on testing and a frame scrap pile
copy the best frames made for the type of racing you are doing
you absolutely wil;l not build anything viable on your own ,i can see that by looking at the tubes and steering neck i am embarassed for you it is so bad
you do not understand design and are relying on a machine to design for you
the computers do have usefullness in engineering the math
What's with the attitude, Were you drunk when you wrote that? It was a sweet rant, too bad so little of it applies to what he's shown.

He's not going to build a cutting edge frame right out of the box on his first attempt. "The computers do have usefulness in engineering and math" Well no shit sherlock. It's 2018. Physical testing is now used to prove out designs, not develop them. What part of what you've seen here is "radical" BTW? And who is spending hundreds of thousands of dollars buiulding prototypes and testing them to find answers these days?

Relying on a machine to do the design for him? Do you have the first clue how CAD and FEA work?

"You do not understand design" Well yeah, I think he's already said he's learning. Not everyone was born knowing it all.

"Copy the best design" Yeah, because blindly copying the "best" design is so educational. And how exactly does he determine what the "best" design is to copy, as he does not understand design?

I know this forum takes pride in being the old school dickheads who haze the newbs but come on. You sound like a delusional old man who's pissed at the world because no one designs bikes by trial and error anymore.

And... somehow I screwed up the multi-quote stuff I was doing so even more disjointed replies now.

The Book on design that was mentioned. Absolutely fidn it and buy it. I got a copy back when I wanted to build a track bike and spent countless hours going over it. Very useful. I posted info on it here years ago, if I can find it I'll edit the post with a link.

Matrerials - someone mentioned sticking with typical steel and staying away from Chromoly or whatever. +1000. Do enough research and decide for yourself, but the benefits of using something fancy, especialy on your first frame, are highly overstated IMHO. Somewhere on here I made the argument that using chromoly only resulted in frame that was harder to dent.

I'd look for all this stuff now but, I just got an email from an FEA guy at work, he needs me to find some CAD files so he can do an analysis on exhaust hangers for a 2021 vehicle that have been flagged as being high risk. Lookie there, no one is building prototypes and testing them, it's all done on numerous computers and damn, it seems they don't actually design anything by themselves. (BTW, I'm not making that up to make a point. I literally do have to stop screwing around here to come up with CAD for an FEA engineer)
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Fluid dynamics? On a frame? I doubt it. ;-)
I know you're kidding but I still wanted to mention that I say fluid dynamics because one of my end design goals is less than a certain drag coefficient. So I'll see how that works in the (fairly distant) future.

The Book on design that was mentioned. Absolutely fidn it and buy it. I got a copy back when I wanted to build a track bike and spent countless hours going over it. Very useful. I posted info on it here years ago, if I can find it I'll edit the post with a link.

Matrerials - someone mentioned sticking with typical steel and staying away from Chromoly or whatever. +1000. Do enough research and decide for yourself, but the benefits of using something fancy, especialy on your first frame, are highly overstated IMHO. Somewhere on here I made the argument that using chromoly only resulted in frame that was harder to dent.
I did get a copy of that book and I'm waiting for it currently. I think I'm going to go with a trellis style frame and go from there.
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I know you're kidding but I still wanted to mention that I say fluid dynamics because one of my end design goals is less than a certain drag coefficient. So I'll see how that works in the (fairly distant) future...
Not sure how to interpret that "less than a certain drag coefficient", is your goal to make it wind slippery to the point of having less than a 1.0 wind drag coefficient? If yes, pretty sure you are going to need access to a wind tunnel test facility, that is how BMW and Moto Guzzi did it.

Book reading is a good idea too but keep in mind the vintage of the book you are looking at represents information based on things that came before that date. 20 year old books are written about 20+ year old technology.
Not sure how to interpret that "less than a certain drag coefficient", is your goal to make it wind slippery to the point of having less than a 1.0 wind drag coefficient? If yes, pretty sure you are going to need access to a wind tunnel test facility, that is how BMW and Moto Guzzi did it.

Book reading is a good idea too but keep in mind the vintage of the book you are looking at represents information based on things that came before that date. 20 year old books are written about 20+ year old technology.
Wow. Has it been that long already.

I do have to say, though, that the technology gained in the last 20years is likely not applicable to your average or even slightly above average backyard DIY'er.

Trellis frames were well developed at the writing of the book. Aluminum perimeter frames as well.
I would do this...

Land vehicle Vehicle Motorcycle Tire Rim


Bicycle part Bicycle drivetrain part Bicycle wheel Vehicle Bicycle frame


MotoD's SV650.

There are a lot of SV650 based custom frames that lends itself well to a trellis frame design.

Plenty of cheap parts.
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There will be some machining needed after welding the frame to make sure the bearings are all located correctly.
That's one of the reasons I never considered building a frame from scratch. Inline boring just wasn't something I could do.
View attachment 82562

Check out the monoshock bracing on this one. Nice.
Must be for one of those motors where the countershaft sprocket comes off the top of the transmission ;)
Book reading is a good idea too but keep in mind the vintage of the book you are looking at represents information based on things that came before that date. 20 year old books are written about 20+ year old technology.
This is true to a point, but technology doesn't reinvent itself every few years. Discussions about materials and the physics behind things are still relevant. Philosophies certainly can/do though. Granted there are changes in manufacturing techniques too but as already mentioned most of that isn't going to be particularly relevant to a garage builders first frame. In any case it certainly is a better basis for this sort of thing than reading what a bunch of keyboard jockeys have to say. I don't know if there are any more recent frame design books that go into the same level of detail.

Anyway, likely moot now since the book has already been ordered but here's the link to a review of the book.
http://www.caferacer.net/forum/tips-tricks/24051-reference-material.html

Tony Foale is also a name that should be mentioned if it hasn't already. He's got a website that has some interesting stuff on it. Or did when I checked it out last. I have had a few versions of his chassis book too... the one I have now is probably from about 20 years ago. SOB I'm getting old.

https://www.tonyfoale.com


There used to be a chassis design mail list. For you young 'uns that what peolpe used to use before internet forums were a thing. I think it's on micapeak.com? When I was on it (again, 20 years ago) there were soem pretty interesting people on it, and guys who were actually building this stuff and racing it. It may still be functional, I now the bevelheads list is still going.

Once the OP gets the book I'm guessing we won't hear much from him for a while, and his frame will look different when we do.

EDIT: So this talk of 20 year old books piqued my curiosity and I grabbed both the Bradley books and Foale's to refresh my memory. Volume 1 of Bradley's book had a lot less frame-specific info in it than I remembered. A ton of general info though and most of it applicable 20 years later.

That got me thinking about what had changed between, say, my 1991 851 and my 2015 Monster 1200S. The frame itself pretty much went away so that's not all that helpful here. Suspension - Ohlins probably uses a different metering system now but the conversation on spring rates and geometry, rising/falling rates, and that sort of thing are all still valid. Brakes - still discs. In general I'd say the basics are all pretty much the same, the fine details may be different. But, no one is building their own forks or master cylinders so it doesn't really matter that you can buy active suspensions or radial master cylinders now.

The huge difference? Electronics. Engine controls, ignition, fuel injection, brakes, it's all electronic now. That doesn't really change anything here either.

Tires are better now, engines more powerful, brakes more powerful, but the basics are still relevant. Torsion is still torsion. The numbers may be higher but the math is the same.

Bradley's Volume 2 deals more with construction and materials. Another worthwhile book but last I heard used copies were being advertised for stupid amounts of money. No you can't borrow mine.

Foale's book - maybe more frame specific stuff but then it's titled :Motorcycle Handling and Chassis Design" so that should be expected. The thing that struck me flipping through that was, it reminded me one of the "preferred" methods of constructing the frame by a lot of custom builders was still bronze welding, which was the same way it was done in the '50s. Everybody loves TIG welds and why shouldn't they, but the old school methods still work too.
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Not sure how to interpret that "less than a certain drag coefficient", is your goal to make it wind slippery to the point of having less than a 1.0 wind drag coefficient? If yes, pretty sure you are going to need access to a wind tunnel test facility, that is how BMW and Moto Guzzi did it.
Wind tunnel testing might actually be a possibility with my connections from Formula SAE if I'm willing to beg, borrow, and steal enough to make it happen. Probably a bit of a pipe dream, but who knows.
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