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this came up in the projects section, and i just wanted to see hacksaw's and other peoples' ideas for shortening their cables...
 

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you left out my middle A and that could start quite a bit of confusion

but I'll see about digging up some pix for show and tell

gotta run for now
 

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I've made up several of my own cables using stuff I got from Flanders. It's very cool once you get the stuff you need, and can solve a lot of problems.
JohnnyB
 

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otherwise. cut to size, untwist the cable a bit, drip in a bunch of solder so the hardware cant back off the cable and you're good.

-tt
 

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quote:Originally posted by ttilghman

otherwise. cut to size, untwist the cable a bit, drip in a bunch of solder so the hardware cant back off the cable and you're good.

-tt
how do you add the end back to the cable? solder surely wouldn't hold the tension. tell us more!

i shortened a clutch cable once by cutting it and then welding the cable back together near the end where there was no insulation. but i want to know other methods. learn me!
 

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throttles and clutches...ok to solder.
brake cables....no way (for me).
i only dare do a factory end for the lever and a high quality pinch barrel (two for the front) at the brake arm...(drums) you disco types are using juicey tubes...
phil turq has a cute little cast iron frying pan in which he heats solder and tips the fluxed cable with end into. keeps the carbon (from a torch) from contaminating the chemical bond between the metals.
-parks
 

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tigging stainless cable inners to one off stainless barrels...... totally rocks

but even if using flanders or barnett ends.... you can pop the end of the cable with the tig for just a second

and the cable inner will form a nifty little ball that won't pull thru

I've yet to have one break and I even make them for my carbs

first time I thought about what would happen if that tiny end broke off while it was running

still rounding up pix for an album and I'll share them

when I was wrenching in Billy Lane's shop, he shared with me his trick on doing cables with rod end joints

done a few and they aren't bad at all but now I make them adjustable so it's a bit different

here is one like that, usually I use stainless bolts instead of grade 8

btw, the anchor swivels

 

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parks-

i did the solder thing with my front brake...as spec from michael morse. there is hardware to fit the loop on the actuating arm that could never slip over the big puddle of solder i've managed to drip into the opened strands at the end of the cable....i've run it for three seasons now. including a redo when i had to shorten things up with a different drum.

so pamp, that's it as far as i know. i've only sized my front drum cable. the cable came with the barrel for the hand lever already installed. i had to determine the length, slide some hardware over the cable (which mates to the actuating arm), and fray the end of the cable. then fill the frayed end with solder so the machined hardware(end)can't slip off the end of the cable. for a clutch, i'm thinking it would be the same depending on the hardware at the cam/pull rod.

i'm sure some others will know some better stuff (technique&hardware).

-tt
 

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I soldered a bunch of cables, including brake cables...that's the way they come from the factory..soldered. But...you need to use a quality brass end, fray the cable properly, dip in flux and use a solder pot (home made or otherwise). After soldering, use brake cleaner or something to make sure all the flux is cleaned off so it doesn't corrode the cable. I've tested a few, tore the cable apart before it would come out of the end ferrel.

But...wouldn't recommend it for brake cables unless you are confident of your results.
JohnnyB
 

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Discussion Starter #11
this is good stuff! keep it going!

love the bolt/anchor idea for the brake, as well as the solder idea...i never would have thought of it...
 

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For my solder pot I just took a piece of metal tubing about 1.5" in OD, about 1.5" long and welded it to a small 2" x 2" piece of 1/4" thick steel...welded a little handle on it and a couple of small feet. I heat it up with a propane torch. Stays hot enough to keep the solder liquid for a few minutes. I just leave the solder in there and heat it up whenever I need it.

I built the solder pot after having a cable pull through that I soldered without it. On a clean, new cable you can skip the flux and just spray the cable down with brake cleaner to avoid the corrosive action of the flux.

I always test brake cables by pulling the lever absolutely as hard as I can. Only one I've ever had fail is the one I did before I made the pot. Dipping the cable end covers the cable itself in solder up about 1/2" from the end which stiffens it and makes the pivot rotate in the lever perch instead of trying to bend the cable. Of course a properly lubed pivot shouldn't bend the cable even without the solder on the cable.
JohnnyB
 

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on my other computer I have pix showing how this heim joint ended "cable" was made



the chain is 316 stainless...... the rod is 347 stainless and welded to the chain...... the end is a one off barrel with with a male and female bevel in each end

and it is welded to the end of the 347, I used very low current and a 0.020" electrode

the end of the adjuster bolt has a bevel in the unseen end to accept the barrel and just a dab of EP grease keeps everything smooth

and I think I located some same old same old straight forward cable pix

this cable was a simple one off and the metal fully adjustable 90 was salvaged off a dead cable

heck, when you have a bike like this, it's not like you can ring up any supplier and order a cable!

I make them for all the locals when they request



please forgive for the non-cafe pix but merely trying to share a few concepts even though I wasn't educated in the modern outcome based school system
 

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ok, this one uses some back bored stainless hex, I'm not going to lay it all out and even post the .dwg of it hoping you are "getting it" and will ask if not

this could be done with braided cable too

I used a male rod end joint on the back and this "two piece" adjuster (see where it's been welded together) for much more adjustment than I'd have if I used a female rod end joint

btw...... when I finished these, I used larger diameter rod, and even added un-needed fill welds followed up by sanding the adjuster smooth so it looks like one piece

these are just some mock up pix

and yes that crank case vent hose does indeed go to a very proper one off catch can
 

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hey JB, if you have a nice and organized Flanders cable kit, how about posting a pix of it

I think it may help some of these guys get a better feel for cable making

I'll show mine too but I promise it's whacky comnpared to a nice new-ish set that hasn't been molested and been subject to lots of inter-racial in and cross breeding.

but most of my stuff I just make, heavier than the kit stuff and usually stainless
 

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My kit is just a box full of various ends I ordered, and a spool of cable cover and a spool of cable. Various ferrel ends for the cable cover.

Reminds me of my old flattie...cept mine was all stock, 45 ci.
JohnnyB
 

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that one is poked 50 over is all

8:1 CR and geared for the salt

cruises 85 with ease

returns better than 70 at legal speed limits

blew up the tranny last year when I topped 100 on it

it was on the front cover of IronWorks Dec 2004

anyhow, I'd guess many haven't ever seen a proper cable kit and mine is far from "proper"

the kits can be ordered for standard Japanese, British, or HD

if you have them all, you can pretty much cover all makes of bikes regardless of country of origin
 

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OK Hack-A-Hole-Saw-

since no one elese has asked. how are you compensating for the arch of the SA through those two sprockets? and then...how is this a KISS solution? and a right to left compensation is cool, but why exactly?

don't know any better-
tt
 

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this bike has a rigid frame, no swing arm ...... answer part one

the reasons to do the chain and sprockets are the following

I did not want to fab up new or even partially new controls

these one off controls will bolt on any of my flatheads

I did not have any easy place to anchor a cable end to a pre-existing hole or mount point on the frame

the sprocket stuff bolts in place and can be unbolted if I go back to a stock wheel with sprocket and brake on the same side

the cable run would have really sucked (the transmission moves fore and aft to adjust the primary and it's a tight run thru there) and been very high friction if I were willing to fab up anchor points for both ends of the cable

yes I could have welded a anchor and perch end at the control end but I just didn't want to since the cable run would still suck and I'd still have to weld very close to a brazed lug at the rear wheel


oh..... why the change? I put a belt drive on the primary and wanted a cush drive rear wheel with real brakes...... the antique HD wheel with brake and sprocket on same side had a brake that was very tiny (the front wheel in this thread has a 4 inch brake and used to be on the front) and three times I ripped the sprocket off it's rivets..... weak and flimsy even if it had any stopping power.... which it did not

and HD star hubs look really tight and all...... but they are about as third world crap as a wheel can be, selective roller needles, race cast into the hub, and thin crappy shim washers to set up side to side play.... which cannot be zero or even preload...... pretty junk if you ask me but they are worth good money

so I put a JAP wheel (which has the brake on the other side as the HD wheel) on it, easy sprocket changes (the stock wheel only accepted HD part with 41T), a seriously substantial drum brake, and a very robust cush drive...... matching front wheel with an 11" disc too, grimeca hydraulics

the frame is furnace brazed and it does suck to tig too close to a brazed joint but then, if I wanted to use any of this on one of my others, I'd have to mod that frame too

I made over 200 parts for this bike and every single one was reverse engineered to bolt right on the bike, the only exception to that was the two tabs for the dual air chambered over hydraulic fully adjustable seat shock...... and the license plate/tail light mount tabs

sooooooooooo........ to get to the other side as friction free as possible, and be able to clear everything that moves and such

I decided chain instead of cable or linkage and bell crank

make any better sense now?

have any ideas you think make more sense? I'd love to hear them. It wouldn't be nothing but a thing to scrap that and do something else brilliant!
 
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