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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple years back I paid someone to assemble a CB450 engine for me. It didn't cost much and turns out I got what I paid for. The engine blew a tiny bit of oil from the front of the head gasket since day one. Not much, like a well cared for brit. Wiping the oil off after every ride kept the ride shiny and rust free. I put a beating on that bike over the past two years, the last couple rides ended with my engine smoking, from the outside! The leak opened up more and more till my engine became externally oil cooled. Which is fine, bike still made it home. (thanks Mr.Honda!) Anyway, my last couple jaunts into the catskills really pushed the limits of those gaskets, dropping gears into corners, engine braking and bad seals don't mix. I knew this was it, made it home and put the bike up on the table to prep for winter surgery.

I couldn't make it to the bike immediately (other projects) and when I finally got to the 450 to give it a once over I found that a LOT of oil had drained out through the shifter gasket(?wtf?)...?

So, it seems I blew it in two spots. I have already started to get it together for a top-end overhaul. 450 cylinders have a tendancy to warp from heat, I'm betting that is part of the problem.

I have seen the clutch pushrod gaskets go, never a shifter (again?) gasket. I was hoping to avoid craking the bottom-end...

Sorry about mis-labeling the shifter gasket, I'm too tired to get it straight.

Has anyone ever replaced one of these WITHOUT cracking open the infernal black box?

BORN TO LURK, FORCED TO WORK.
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I don't remember what the insides of the CB450 looks like... can you take off the right side (clutch) cover and pull out the shift shaft from that side? You can on RDs... With the shift shaft out, the seal pops out easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think you are right, there is a circlip on the drive side holding it all in place. I don't have any manuals here at home (keeps the peace), will check in the mornin'.

Think this is a good time to slather a seal in Yamabond?

BORN TO LURK, FORCED TO WORK.
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yamabond, hondabond, etc are gasket makers. If you have a seal already you don't want to slather it in that stuff (unless the manual tells you to). Occasionally I will use a dab to hold a seal in place while I set up the parts to go around it, but never cover the seal with it.

The weak point in any old honda is going to be the gaskets, espcially the head gasket. The shift seal should be replaceable from the outside, at the best case you remove the circlip and it pops in, worst case you use a drift to seat it.

I use the microfiches here:

http://www.crotchrocket.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

looks like all the seals are still available from honda.
 

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quote:
'slather' was an exaggeration. A bit of yamabond around the clutch pushrod and shifter seals would do the trick, so what if I give myself a hassle in 35 years.

BORN TO LURK, FORCED TO WORK.
www.NYCvinMoto.com
www.VinMoto.org
Again, I am not sure that it is a good idea because you are talking about using gasket maker on moving parts. Usually Honda used seals instead of a gasket because the part needs to move and that was the best way to seal it while still allowing movement.

If you put yamabond on the seal and the pushrod then the pushrod will flex the seal when it goes in and out. I use a dab on the seal mating surfaces that don't move (like the flange in the cases) but not on the moving parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was planning on putting yamabond on ALL the moving parts, clutch plates, points, inside the brakes... I heard it works great as a valve guide lubricant.

I don't know why it becomes necessary to explain every little detail, it should be obvious, OF COURSE I MEANT THE MATING SURFACES (*) AND NOT THE F-ING MOVING PARTS.





*-by "mating surfaces" I mean OUTSIDE of seal to engine case.

BORN TO LURK, FORCED TO WORK.
www.NYCvinMoto.com
www.VinMoto.org
 

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quote:
I was planning on putting yamabond on ALL the moving parts, clutch plates, points, inside the brakes... I heard it works great as a valve guide lubricant.

I don't know why it becomes necessary to explain every little detail, it should be obvious, OF COURSE I MEANT THE MATING SURFACES (*) AND NOT THE F-ING MOVING PARTS.





*-by "mating surfaces" I mean OUTSIDE of seal to engine case.

BORN TO LURK, FORCED TO WORK.
www.NYCvinMoto.com
www.VinMoto.org
somebody's grumpy.

If you don't clarify these things, some newbie is gonna read it, do it and then....well...you made him/her cry.

If you don't think it happens, remind me to show you the cb750 head that was destroyed by the phrase "install the cam straight up"
 

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hey rosko, dont listen to them, putting it on all the moving is a great idea. it will act as a rust preventative. so in 35 years, all that shit will look brand new. it'll be like preserved and shit. i say go for it.

and please, if youre new here, be sure to do the same. it will do nothing but preserve your motorcycle. i fill my float bowls with it for winter storage.

jc
 

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I can't believe that Krapfever used the terms silly and sillies and we let him get away with it. This better get us back to the douche bag discussion or maybe even fucktard. I feel my manliness slipping away.

Silly Ken

AHRMA 412
Vintage racing - old guys on old bikes
 

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Thanks Rosko, and thanks for the pic, too. That ought to keep those silly fucktard douchebags in their place.
Ken

AHRMA 412
Vintage racing - old guys on old bikes
 

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quote:
I can't believe that Krapfever used the terms silly and sillies and we let him get away with it. This better get us back to the douche bag discussion or maybe even fucktard. I feel my manliness slipping away.

Silly Ken

AHRMA 412
Vintage racing - old guys on old bikes
what, you mean he doesn't talk with a lisp and drink rum punch cocktails in real life. I just assumed he was being himself.
 
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