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I got my Dyna S (made for GL1000) installed but my points cover won't close over it. Has anyone else done this mod?
 

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quote:
I got my Dyna S (made for GL1000) installed but my points cover won't close over it. Has anyone else done this mod?
Yup, it won't fit. You need to shim it out a around 1/4" in order to clear the new rotor. I haven't done that yet, mines still running open.
 

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I was told to rotate the dyna 180 degrees but with a small amount of grinding on the backing plate, I was able to install it correctly. Did you rotate yours? The only other issue I'm running into is the mounting screws. The stock red ones don't fit, so I need to track some down that will. Do you have a pic of the completed install? If so, I'd like to check it out.

Thanks
 

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quote:
I was told to rotate the dyna 180 degrees but with a small amount of grinding on the backing plate, I was able to install it correctly. Did you rotate yours? The only other issue I'm running into is the mounting screws. The stock red ones don't fit, so I need to track some down that will. Do you have a pic of the completed install? If so, I'd like to check it out.
The search feature is your friend...
http://www.caferacer.net/forum/topic.asp?whichpage=2&ARCHIVEVIEW=&TOPIC_ID=1521
 

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and since were on the topic, id like to add something. when i was running points on my race bike, i used to have a pretty bad arcing problem with that cover. it would arc and missfire. i tried stacking gaskets etc.....nothing worked unless i took it off completely. that coating they put inside the cover im assuming is to prevent this from happening. its just something to think about when youre dicking around with these things.


jc
 

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Discussion Starter #7
they make a rubber dip/spray for tool handles. if it had a high enough heat tolerance, you could line the inside of the cover. i've never used it before, just an idea that popped into my head.
 

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I rotated the dyna to match your picture. Just a quick question about the wiring. All I need to do is wiring like I would my points, then splice in a hot wire from the ignition via the resistor?

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This is the email I have from when I did it...


Did you know you can run a Dyna-S electronic ignition on a 450? You can install DS1-3 model with a little grinding of the unit to clear the "points" plate hold-down screws.
I've been running this on my street bike for a few years now with a set of Dyna coils and I have had no problems. I made a spacer for the "points" cover out of 1/2" (I think) black plastic I got at Tap plastics. I just traced the gasket and cut it out with a router. Works great.







OK everyone, I'll try to describe this as best I can, it's been a few years since I did this on a 450.

***DISCLAIMER**** Before proceeding with this install, PLEASE think this through, this is not for the timid and I can only offer my guidance as someone who did this a few years ago. I will not be held responsible for any errors or omissions herein! you should understand motorcycle ignition systems as you may have to troubleshoot problems that arise and you have to be able to do some modifying to expensive parts
ok that said, let's begin...

- First remove the point cover and points plate in it's entirety, save the 2 large screws, disconnect the wires at the condenser/wiring harness and remove the condenser as you do not use it with electronic ignition.
- Next remove the 10mm head bolt holding the mechanical advancer on the end of the camshaft, slide the advancer off the cam. If it sticks, spray it with lube and you may CAREFULLY pry it off. Take care not to bend the unit or crack the aluminum housing of the point covers.
with the advance unit in hand:
- The point cam on the advancer is replaced with the magnetic rotor supplied with the kit.
- Rotate the cam a few degrees while holding the backer plate and it should slide off from the weights, look at how thet twisting motion lets the cam off. Make sure the spindle of the advancer is clean and free of gack, clean the shaft and use a little light oil here is ok, but remove any excess.
- Now install the magnetic rotor by spreading the weights enough to get the rotor slots to line up
- Now check that the rotor moves freely on the shaft, if the springs are too loose or too tight address this now by modifying the springs.
- Install the advance unit on the camshaft. I'm pretty sure I had to use a small washer that fit inside the rotor underneath the existing flat washer to make up for the rotor being deeper than the point cam. Try tightening the advance unit and when tight, try to rotate the rotor as it would at full advance, it should move freely and the bolt should be tight holding the shaft of the advance unit tightly on the camshaft.

ok, if the magnetic rotor is on the advancer and moves freely, it's time to work on the pickup

look at the photos on page 2 of "augustiron's bikes" in the photos section of this site for reference and approximate locations for the modifications, go slow and always remove a little material and work up to having it all fit!
OK, if you are this far in, time to get brave with that little $150 trinket...
the pickup must be oriented as shown in the photos, some modifications must be made to get it to fit this way
- on the left side, I ground away a little of the plastic housing to expose the aluminum backer plate so the head of the left mounting hold down screw can seat properly.
- on the right side, I ground away the aluminum backer plate to clear the valve adjuster nut and washer, I also installed a smaller O.D. washer here under the nut.
Once you have the mounting setup with a little clearance to allow it to rotate a few degrees for timing, it's time to do the wiring. Excuse me for any lack of detail here but I'm running from memory.

- Extend the 3 leads from the pickup far enough to reach where the old points met the condenser & coils under the gas tank. Using black for power and blue and yellow for left and right will match the factory setup and make things easier to remember. tap the black wire (red from the unit) into the "ignition power on" black wire of your harness and connect the cylinder (blue/yellow) leads to the respective coils. New bullet connectors on new extensions or the old point wires spliced onto the dyna unit's wires is ok.

I don't remember if the blue/yellow orientation of the pickup leads is correct or if they have to be swapped left for right, sorry, it's been a while...

If I explained this right and you and I didn't screw up, you should now be able to rough time the unit by moving the backer plate to get one cylinder and you can fine tune the timing of both cylinders by using the supplied hex wrench to move each pickup on the backer plate. Take your time and get it spot on and you'll never have to worry about it again!!!

Next, pat yourself on the back and start saving for a pair of dyna coils!
 
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