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Discussion Starter #1
I have a new, after market, left handlebar control for my CB750K5. The control is a K&S model 12-0030. It did not come with a wiring diagram. I contacted the manufacturer via email but got no response. I have an email into the retailer where i bought it but no response yet.

The stock control has 11 wires coming out of it. I do have the wiring diagram for the stock control.

The new control has 9 wires coming out of it.

I have taken both apart to trace the wires so I know how to connect the new one to the wiring harness.

I have the horn and headlight figured out, which accounts for 5 of the 9 wires.

The new switch has two buttons for lights, one is the high/ low beam switch and the other has three settings, Off, Parking, On. The old control did not have this second button.

One Question is, what should I do with the "parking light" wire that comes out of the switch? Ignore it? Splice it into the "On" wire so the lights work regardless of switch setting?

My real issue is the blinkers. The new switch has only three wires going into the blinker switch. The new switch works by turning the blinkers on by selecting right or left and turning the blinker off by pushing in on the switch.

The old blinker switch has 7 wires.

I am guessing that the three wires are right blinker, left blinker and winker relay???

There does not seem to be a turn signal buzzer wire.

When i look at the wiring diagram for the old switch it looks like the right turn signal setting has a wire going to the right front and back blinker lights, and another wire going to the left front blinker light (and not the back).

The question is, how do i make the three wires coming out of the switch work?

My plan was to use a but end splice to put the old wires on the end of the new control so I could avoid buying new bullet plugs and to make it easier when I take tear down and rebuild.

I am open to all ideas, even ditching the control all together, wiring the head light to be on all the time and using a small horn button.

Thanks for the help, again.
 

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...oof.

judging by the lack of responses, i'm guessin' just the thought of the issues you described caused instant migrains or worse, full on seizure, for anyone who read it.

have you sorted it out yet?

"Better a cruel truth than a comfortable delusion." -Edward Abbey
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Catboy,
I haven't touched it since i posted in hopes of having someone respond.

I am going to work on it today and will post my results.

The biggest question still is: why does the stock wiring diagram show three wires going to each of the front blinker lights?
 

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good luck brother. share the experience when you do. cheers!

"Better a cruel truth than a comfortable delusion." -Edward Abbey
 

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Help me out and post a complete stock wiring diagram. I haven't responded because that post reminded me of the LSAT... I'd have to draw some diagrams, and I'm just too damned lazy for all that.

So, if you post a stock wiring diagram and a diagram of what you know and what's left, I'm sure we can help you get there.

A
 

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Discussion Starter #6



This may be hard to view.

Right now I am only stuck on why there are three wires going to the front blinkers.
 

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Dual -filament bulbs in the signals, one of the filaments is a parking light controlled by the light switch.

Either ignore those filaments/wires or just run them to the parking cicuit from the Ign. switch.

All you need for this to work is the wire marked "W" and the wires marked "R" and "L" on the diagram below.

Ignore the "B" because that's the buzzer and your new switch doesn't have an output for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the help. I think I have it figured out. Once I connect everything I'll post the results up here for future reference.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'll still post once I know this works, it seems that everything is taking a lot longer to get back together.

I have one other question. The 750 has a clutch saftey switch in the stock clutch lever. I think that when the clutch lever is not engaged, it engages the saftey switch and doesn't allow the bike to start. And when the clutch lever is pulled in, the saftey switch is off and the bike can start. Right??

My new clutch lever does not have the saftey switch. Do i need to do anything to make sure the bike will start?

Thanks.

You can see the clutch switch in the diagram above.
 

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i think it just needs to be grounded. do some tests and see if it will start with that wire grounded.
quote:
I'll still post once I know this works, it seems that everything is taking a lot longer to get back together.

I have one other question. The 750 has a clutch saftey switch in the stock clutch lever. I think that when the clutch lever is not engaged, it engages the saftey switch and doesn't allow the bike to start. And when the clutch lever is pulled in, the saftey switch is off and the bike can start. Right??

My new clutch lever does not have the saftey switch. Do i need to do anything to make sure the bike will start?

Thanks.

You can see the clutch switch in the diagram above.
'72 cb750
'75 cb750
'76cb750
'82 cx500 (but mine is cool, i swear. Why don't you believe me?)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the help. You guys are helping me sort out all my electric issues.

Here is another question. I have new dyna coils. The coil bracket did not come with the bike. I have the coils held on with pipe clamps. I know I need to ground the core's. Does it matter what size wire I use to ground? Do i need to run a ground form the front and back of the pole or will one end do?

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I have my bike rewired and back together. I appreciate the help on this issue.

For future reference, If you are using a after market left hand control for a CB750K5 made by K&S model 12-0030 then here is one way to wire it which works:

Dark Green = Right Blinker
Brown/White = Winker Relay
Gray = Left Blinker
Pink = Horn
Black = Horn Ground
Yellow = High Beams
Light Green = Low Beams
Blue = Parking Lights
Red Striped = Power

Some of the wires I taped off and did not use. Everything works fine.
 

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as a side note, on the K3 the right hand control usually has the lights on/off switch. Since that and the kill are the only two on that switch you could have traced the wires for the light on/off and connected it to the right hand switch. This way if you wanted to go to an aftermarket throttle later on you could without ditching the lights off feature.

why would you want a lights off feature? well given honda's weak charging system and propensity to run down batteries, starting the bike with the lights off is nice way to make sure your battery doesn't drain out. FYI I park my cb750s with the switch in the lights off position, just in case there is a battery draining short in the lighting somewhere (it has happened).
 
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