Aaron and Jeremy: Remember the other night after we pulled off the bay so Aaron could piss and my electrical system seemed to fail? Well, even though the fuse looked fine, we changed it and everything was fine. Well, on my lunch break, I went home and was going to ride my bike back to work and the same thing happened. The fuse looks fine, but no electrical. I changed the fuse twice, and it still didn't work. Now this leads me to believe that maybe there was just a loose connection somewhere and changing the fuse jostled the connection enough so it worked after. Unforunately, it didn't work today, and I can't see any connective problems. So, after closer inspection, if I don't find a loose connection, where should I check next?
electrical issue
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Don,
Check the ground off of the battery, then check the lead that
goes to the ignition (key switch), then check the wire from the
ignition to the coil, then check the wire that jumps from
that coil to the other, and then check the ground from the coil.
By the sound of the bike that night it wasn't sparking. If it
doesn't start at all its not the coil cause for the most part
only fail when they're hot. If its not a bad wireing connection,
its probably your condensor or zenier diode. If your zenior
diode is shot, it would blow the fuse instantly when you put it
in where it is now a conductor and not a diode. Look for a loose
coil wire and in the mean time get a capacitor from Neal, John,
Dave, or Hutch. Hutch having a brand new one and the right one
for your bike. Capacitors are cheap and it couldn't hurt any. I'm
leaving for Mid-Ohio on thursday or I'd come up and fix it. Let
me know how it goes and I'll have my phone with me while I'm in
Ohio. When I come back I'll put in a Tympanium and a Boyer where
your riding it so much more, it will be a lot more reliable.
Aaron
Check the ground off of the battery, then check the lead that
goes to the ignition (key switch), then check the wire from the
ignition to the coil, then check the wire that jumps from
that coil to the other, and then check the ground from the coil.
By the sound of the bike that night it wasn't sparking. If it
doesn't start at all its not the coil cause for the most part
only fail when they're hot. If its not a bad wireing connection,
its probably your condensor or zenier diode. If your zenior
diode is shot, it would blow the fuse instantly when you put it
in where it is now a conductor and not a diode. Look for a loose
coil wire and in the mean time get a capacitor from Neal, John,
Dave, or Hutch. Hutch having a brand new one and the right one
for your bike. Capacitors are cheap and it couldn't hurt any. I'm
leaving for Mid-Ohio on thursday or I'd come up and fix it. Let
me know how it goes and I'll have my phone with me while I'm in
Ohio. When I come back I'll put in a Tympanium and a Boyer where
your riding it so much more, it will be a lot more reliable.
Aaron
Yeah... I already paid so now I think I'm going to go. I have a water pump in the van that's starting to fail but am going to make an attempt at it anyway. I'll never quit motorcycles even if the BSA is such a bitch around 9 grand. I'm racing the 250 at Mid-Ohio the way it is and not sure if I'll be running it or the Triton at Loudon. The Triton probably wont be run for the rest of the season from what I've heard. I need to talk to Dave. From what I''ve heard I did a number on the crank and rods.
Aaron "the bike breaker"
Anybody want me to ride there bike just let know
Aaron "the bike breaker"
Anybody want me to ride there bike just let know
i know you hate my motorcycle, but youre more than welcome to swing through and pick it up. it ran good for me. good enough to throw me to the ground 2x. ask jeremy how fast i went by him on it. almost as fast as i hit the ground just after. if i stay away from trying to make it run for you, i probably wont fry the wiring harness and other dumb shit like that. its quite a ways out of the way and i dont think i know anyone else going. maybe bucky is going.
sometimes those water pumps take forever to die. sometimes its instant. take a spare with you. they are pretty easy to change on the roadside.
i know you wont quit motorcycles. (including the bsa, which is a good thing) your determination will prevail. i talked to a guy a few weeks back who worked on developing a bike for more than 10 years. year after year the thing grenaded. (he finally gave up though)
i was just curious about what you were going to be riding at mid o if you went. too bad about the triton. its such a beautiful motorcycle.
good luck and have alot of fun. i'll keep my fingers crossed for you to get there and back safely. and if you need to and are down in the area, feel free to call anytime. i'll go 3 or 4 hours one way if i need to.
good luck and have fun
joe
sometimes those water pumps take forever to die. sometimes its instant. take a spare with you. they are pretty easy to change on the roadside.
i know you wont quit motorcycles. (including the bsa, which is a good thing) your determination will prevail. i talked to a guy a few weeks back who worked on developing a bike for more than 10 years. year after year the thing grenaded. (he finally gave up though)
i was just curious about what you were going to be riding at mid o if you went. too bad about the triton. its such a beautiful motorcycle.
good luck and have alot of fun. i'll keep my fingers crossed for you to get there and back safely. and if you need to and are down in the area, feel free to call anytime. i'll go 3 or 4 hours one way if i need to.
good luck and have fun
joe
Lucas Prince Of Darkness Strikes Again!!!!!!!!
If it's a no power issue, get out the test light, and start looking for power from the battery to the key switch. That is after you check to make sure you have a good tight ground. (remember, paint, powercoat, grease, rust, are not good ground's) Check for power to the key switch. Make sure you have power going to and from that first. Then depending on what year bike you have, check to make sure you have power going to the coils. Then keep going from there.
If it's a no power issue, get out the test light, and start looking for power from the battery to the key switch. That is after you check to make sure you have a good tight ground. (remember, paint, powercoat, grease, rust, are not good ground's) Check for power to the key switch. Make sure you have power going to and from that first. Then depending on what year bike you have, check to make sure you have power going to the coils. Then keep going from there.
No, if he has a boyer, then if the voltage dropps below 10 volts(a bright headlight dosen't tell you that), then the transisters in the boyer go into a state called cut-off. Does the bike run fine then stall when the idle drops? Might be a weak alt.
I run points, cuz I can
I run points, cuz I can
12.4 is when the Boyer starts acting funny youjust don't realize it with a charging system. He actually has a loose wire some where on the bike and I'm going up to Maine this weekend to take care of some things so I will be taking a look at his bike.
Aaron
Aaron
check the stupid connections under the motor. mine would drop a cyl or run like shit and foul a plug alot before i got totally mad at it and ripped out the harness to find the problem. the connections there were totally cramed with dirt grease and all kinds of shit. the connections were seriously shit. i didnt even know there was a connection there until i pulled it all out. my bikes a 68 650.
jc
jc
Yeah those Lucas bullets are real motherfuckers at times. Hell just finding the things to replace the bad ones can be a major pain in the ass. Also if somebody has been in there before, and didn't stick to the color codes, then it gets to be even more fun. Only takes forever to figure that stuff out at times. But you racer types have it easy, only takes 1 wire from the points, and 1 wire from the battery, and it goes like hell. We don't need no steenking brake lights
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