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I don't know about "properly", I think putting the engine in the dishwasher might be "improper", unless you have permission.

Are you just cleaning the engine or are you trying to "detail" it? Is the engine in the frame?

You can use any number of degreasers fairly safely. Or Kerosene if you have some. It's nice to have a good selection of brushes to fit in the hard to get at spots. I use a narrow, long bristle brush that came with some citrus degreaser from my son's Bicycle shop for fins etc.

If you're trying to polish and detail the cases, Simichrome or Never-Dull work pretty well...


FR
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The engine has been taken off of the frame, and im trying to do a thourough external cleaning and polishing, while at the same time touching up the internal components. I don't kno that much about cleaning so im tryin not to damage the motor by just spraying it with water ( letting solution leak into the motor openings...) So im pretty much just tring to find out the proper "procedure"

SPEED!!! My new anit-drug
 

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there is no proper "procedure", but I have to ask is this the motor that was in your bike or the spare you got? is the motor any good? what do you mean by touch up internals.

Find an aluminum safe degreaser (simple green is not one BTW, neither is oven cleaner). Regular old soap and water (dish soap tends to work well) does a number on grease. wet a paper towl or rag and wipe it down.

before you clean anything you probably should take a moment and see if the thing you are cleaning is any good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey Geeto, im refering to the spare motor i have. In order to testit i have to gt the electrical system on my bike in order, as well as get a new exhaust system correct? Unless you kno of another way for me to test the motor?

SPEED!!! My new anit-drug
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
oh yea i meant to ask, do i break the engine down and then clean, or just spray it down, thats what i meant by procedure i guess. If so what about the water/soap entering into the engine.


SPEED!!! My new anit-drug
 

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as I have an unlimited supply of the stuff at work I have always been partial to using excessive amounts of brake clean whenever I have some engine cleaning to do. You could always try to use a product called fantastix I think that is how it is spelled

Hey someone pas me the wrench........ Ahh screw it where is the torch
 

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Just to throw my two cents in, S100 is one of the best cleaners I know of to clean a bike, engine or frame. As far as covering up the engine openings, you can use duct tape, rubber balls, tightly rolled rags, etc. as long as you don't leave the wet stuff in there too long. XL-1 cycle wash is also good for this, and using a brush definitely helps.

if at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer
 

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quote:
Hey Geeto, im refering to the spare motor i have. In order to testit i have to gt the electrical system on my bike in order, as well as get a new exhaust system correct? Unless you kno of another way for me to test the motor?

SPEED!!! My new anit-drug
two things you need to do to test the motor are 1) a leak down test, and 2) a crank seal test and neither one requires pipes, electrical, or a running bike. It does reauire the motor to be assembled up to the heads. Hopefully Diamondj, the resident suzuki two stroke expert, will weigh in here on how to do these since he is the one that showed me on my t500.

1) a leak down test it just that, to see how fast air leaks past the cylinder rings. This will tell you if you need new rings and the cylinder needs a hone. A compression test will do the same thing but you will need to spin the engine over a couple of times so it is easier to do in the frame. You will need to seal the intake and exhaust for the compression test but not the leak down which is performed at TDC. when pressurizing the cylinders you only need 5 psi, large amounts of pressure will distort the rings and cause problems.

2) A crank seal test is similar to a leakdown test in that you are tying to measure what leaks past the crank seals. again 5 psi is all you need. You are measuring the rate of leakage not whether there is any at all as there should be a little. you will need the intake and exhaust blocked for this and the piston at BDC. if 5 psi leaks out as fast as it comes in then the seals are shot and it is time to rebuild the crank.

if you have a good crank and good rings you are in the clear to fire her up. Otherwise a complete rebuild is in your future.
 
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