here is why it won't work on some bikes. both sides of the flange are used. The side that faces the head seals against the exhaust gasket and takes the heat coming from the motor. The side that faces away from the motor sits against two shell clamps (kinda like bearings) that are held in place with bolt on clamp. If there is a bead weld sitting on the junction of that flange the shell clamps will not be able to seat properly and put adiquate force on holding the pipe in place. I suppose you could grind them but keep in mind that flange is the harshest part of the exhaust rapidly heating and cooling. Typically when an exhaust pipe cracks it cracks at that flange.quote:Originally posted by CBGP
I haven't looked to far into it yet, but getting a thick steel washer that has the right OD and ID and welding it to the end of the new head pipe should work too.
BINGO!quote:Originally posted by jbranson
I do the washer thing, turn the ID and OD on my lathe. TIG weld it on, no bead, never had one break yet. I use shims about 1/8" thick. Can get them very close to the size I need so not much lathe work. I use this setup with the OEM half shells. I TIG weld it around the ID on the port side only, comes out flat as can be.
The TIG welding is the key...like you say, bead would get in the way with a MIG. I've got pipes I've done up this way down to .049" wall that have held up nice so far.quote:Originally posted by Geeto67
if JB says it will work then it will work.