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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys im brand new to this site but I just got a 1976 Honda cb360t that im converting into a cafe racer. The bike does not run but has compression. All the wiring seemed to be in decent shape besides the fact that the previous guy took out the turn signals....those will need to be put back in. He told me one cylinder wasn't firing until you hit about 4000 rmp??? I was thinking maybe the timing is off or something with the carbs.///Side note/// Im not only brand new to this site but im brand new to motorcycles and also working on motorcycles

This thread is going to be mainly picture based since I know everyone rather see pictures. Also if you want to tag a link to another Honda cb360 build that you think I could learn from, I would love that!

Im going to learning the entire time throughout this build so please give me some feedback!

This is the bike getting delivered
Motor vehicle Bicycle wheel Mode of transport Vehicle Transport


I had a little photo op before I began to strip her down.
Land vehicle Vehicle Motorcycle Automotive tire Tire



Land vehicle Vehicle Motorcycle Motor vehicle Automotive tire


This is a little inspiration for my build
Land vehicle Vehicle Motorcycle Motor vehicle Automotive tire


sorry if the pictures are sideways, I dont know how to fix that!


So I took off the carburetors on the bike which was surprisingly easy.
Auto part Engine Motor vehicle Fuel line Vehicle


I then started to disassemble the carbs. Now im just waiting for the carb cleaner and rebuild kit that i got on amazon.

Auto part Audio equipment Technology Electronic device

Auto part Carburetor Automotive engine part Engine
 

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do not modify the bike until you have made it run as it should and use it in stock configuration to learn to ride
leave the stock handlebars on it go through the brakes and get new tires/tubes
you cannot safely learn how to ride with low narrow bars
 

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there was a recall issue on many 360's look into that
the 360 is like many hondas and the cam rides in the head no bearings it could be toast you need to know now ,not a big suprise later
do not put pods on it.period
do not make the exhaust short
 

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do not modify the bike until you have made it run as it should and use it in stock configuration to learn to ride
leave the stock handlebars on it go through the brakes and get new tires/tubes
you cannot safely learn how to ride with low narrow bars
This thread......

Facial expression Shout Laugh Mouth Smile
 

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Do you plan on doing any diagnosis or are you going to just take stuff apart?
Why doesn't it run? Electrics or carbs?
Why did you take the carbs off and apart?
You have a pretty decent looking bike. Don't jack it all up by ripping things apart and cutting up the frame and fenders, to make it your own.
By the time you get it running, rebuild the front forks, replace the rear shocks, give it a tune up, replace the air filters with new stock ones, replace the tires and tubes, inspect and replace the steering head, wheel and swingarm bearings and cables, you will have a bunch of time and money into a nice running stock bike. You would be looking at $600 - 700 and at least a couple of full weekends of wrenching just to get to that point. Do all of that first before you start fantasizing about your "cafe" build.

DON"T EVEN THINK ABOUT DETABBING THE FRAME, CUTTING OFF THE ENDS OF THE FRAME, REMOVING OR CUTTING UP THE FENDERS OR REMOVING THE BATTERY BOX AND AIRBOX . I MEAN IT!!!! DON"T DO IT!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I plan on going through every inch of the bike before I ride it but I took the carbs off because the previous owner said they needed cleaning which they did! I really appreciate your feedback but was wondering why you recommend I shouldn't run pods on this bike? Thanks.
 

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Did you get a manual with the bike, you'll need to set the floats, air screw and sync the carbs, adjust the tappets, set the timing and points all that good shit you need to do right off the bat. Get that shit out of the way before you start hunting gremlins. While you're at it get an electrical tester and learn how to read a wiring diagram.
 

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the photo op of you on the bike is a perfect example of what i try to warn novice riders of ,see, you are sitting upright with arms pretty much locked straight
you will stance the same way when riding because you want to keep your head up for situational awareness
the low narrow bars are so a rider can tuck in low to the tank ,present less aero drag and to allow good front weight transfer
but the racer will be crouched down and forward and his arms will be plenty bent at elbows
the point is riding with those bars on the street arms locked straight you cannot fully control the bike,the rider is limited in efficiency ease and quickness of control ,the begginer or novice cannot learn vital riding skills either in that sitch,and what i speak of is the control and response to avoid hazards its important to learn those and be able to use them and that means sitting up in a body position like mx,dirttrack or supermotard
notice the bent elbows ,you will never see any kind of mc racer
with locked straight arms,because control is lost doing so

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I plan on going through every inch of the bike before I ride it but I took the carbs off because the previous owner said they needed cleaning which they did! I really appreciate your feedback but was wondering why you recommend I shouldn't run pods on this bike? Thanks.
And where did you find the dirt, in the top or the bottom of the carburetor ;) you're spinning your wheels taking the top half of the carbs apart unless you found rubber bits rotted out and pods suck on a bank of vacuum operated carburetors, they operate off of vacuum and your vacuum pressure is going to be all over the place because of all the reasons the air box was on there to begin with. Your air box provides a controlled volume of reasonably still air that your carbs can breath from. Think of it this way; is it easier to breath normally from inside your car or with your head sticking out the window at 200 miles per hour. The air box also provides a place for your crankcase to breath from and spew oil into, those little paper pods that idiots put on the air breather port work for about an hour before they are clogged with oil on a motor that probably has 10 times the piston blow-by that it had when it was new. Are your pods paper or oiled felt or oiled foam filters, treated paper filters are garbage once they become water wet, foam or felt elements simply don't work for the job that they exceed at unless they are properly oiled, the excess oil should also collect inside the air box where it collects in the bottom and runs out of a specially shaped one way vent pipe.

Basically your pods suck because they are not in an air box so you have obsoleted all of the advantages that an air box provides. Believe it or not Honda doesn't put air boxes on all of their motorcycles because it saves them money and they love engineering and building lots of non required parts, they are on there because they are needed, they are on multi-cylinder CV equipped motorcycles because they were deemed vital to a good performing motorcycle.
 
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