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proset adhesive, west system g flex adhesive or plexus ma590 adhesive

make sure you scuff the surfaces to be glued and try your luck. all three of these products are expensive 35-45 bucks per tube. i would glue it .. then again i am a nerdy composites guru.

C'MON PEOPLE... SEND ME SOME BUSINESS... I NEED TO MAKE SOME MONIES!!! gots to plug my stuff too

matt
 

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krap, i have used marine tex quite a bit for gas tank type repairs. the best out there. you can get it at a marina/boat supply shop. make sure you get it in grey.
 

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I have a similarly assembled petcock on one of my bikes

after it came apart and dumped a lot of gas all over me and my running bike...

I studied it a bit and decided I'd shrink the bore the nipple presses into

and expand the nipple's OD

it really didn't take much at all

been about 4 years ago and after it was snapped back in place

it's not offered to jump back out since or even seep one bit

if it ever does again I'd probably use some MarineTex or devcon kinda stuff

or whatever that sticky jizz is pimp-meister monkey is rattling about


to this day I've never figured out what had come over me that had me actually using such fuel tap on one of my bikes when there are so many
really good and nearly bullet proof fuel taps out there to be had

the one I used was off a RF900 and I even went out of my way to fit up and fab up a tab to mount it... and then even welded it to my frame
 

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quote:Originally posted by monkey

C'MON PEOPLE... SEND ME SOME BUSINESS... I NEED TO MAKE SOME MONIES!!! gots to plug my stuff too

matt
Seriously? because I have some fiberglass 1970s parts I want copied (so as not to ruin one of a kind originals) if you are up to it? Maybe some CF instead of boring old fiberglass mat?
 

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I'd silver solder the part back in - sort of that it seems to me you could get a replacement for cheaper than the type of glue these folks are talking about.
 

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I think for the money and time spent on trying to make it work would be to just get another petcock. Hell cut off the valve from the flange. Get a barbed fitting and screw it into the flange and go to the hardware store and get a simple valve say from the plumbing section.
 

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is it runny and yellow like gorilla snot?

apply to both pieces and let them get tacky dry?

like Gasgachinch?

if so I may have to grab some since I always have to order gasgacinch.
 

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What about tapping threads into the body and adding a threaded fitting. You could seal it with Seal-All and be in find shape......and not be just gluing your fuel system together.....
 

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well, those bits are relatively frail cast pot/zinc metal.....

can be tapped and not a bad idea, but I think I'd lean strongly towards british type pipe threads of the parallel variety


one observation about the OP stating JB weld did not work

I can't really see that either piece was adequately prepped for JB or any other fuel resistant epoxy...
 

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lead solder.



Monkey I need some fiberglass side covers for a 66 bsa spitfire (should be same as a lightning) white base gelcoat is fine. Up for it?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hack,

Yeah I did scuff both contact areas and wash them down with acetone before applying the JB. I probably screwed up the mix and didn't allow enough curing time before I slipped the pieces together (if I recall correctly, it was about 90+ degrees in my shop that day..).

And, nope the Seal All is not snotty contact sealer; just clear one-step epoxy that hardens as it evaporates. Dries within 3-6 hours and you can apply additional coats if necessary. I just re-scuffed and cleaned the surfaces, carefully spread a bead around the male end of the elbow (about 1/4" back from the tip) and pressed it into the hole.

Really not bad stuff for a quick fix and it held through an entire rough day of trail riding.

I agree that tapping/threading the fitting or silver soldering would perhaps be better solutions, but I'm an inpatient man and it is just and old dirtbike.


Eric
 
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