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FZ guys

4K views 46 replies 7 participants last post by  KeninIowa 
#1 ·
I've already discovered that there is very little for mid 80s FZs out there. Fortunately I don't need much.
Is there somewhere out there on the interwebs that doesnt pop up on the top of a google search thats a little more FZ specific?
I'm gonna need first, a petcock rebuild kit, then likely float needles, float bowl gaskets and possibly caliper rebuild kits.
I started on the lower fairings late last night (cuz that's quiet work and cuz I had resin a glass cloth sitting around) and today discovered the left side lower fairing mounting brackets are missing. Anyone got a lead on where I can find that kinda stuff, besides eBay? I can fab some up when I get to that point but there's nothing better than original if I can get them.
And before I just buy one, anyone have an old manual they want to sell? Or a good reference site?
Thanks
 
#2 ·
#3 ·
Mark which you need. Probably have if I can find:



No FZ specific sites that I've been able to find. I joined the FZRarchives, but haven't been there for probably a couple years. I keep my eyes open in the vintage section of the WERA board, FZ stuff pops up every so often.

Far as parts, someone posted a link in your other thread. Find a dealer with an OEM parts finder that sells online. I have a so-so local OEM parts hookup, but not good enough for you to then pay shipping where I get mine.
 
#4 ·
Ned,
Thanks for the lead. And yes, I would reallyreally appreciate a zip of the manual. I'm trying to keep the expenses as low as possible on this one.

Yeah, Ken. I've been through a lot of forums looking for info but I'm not finding much. Seems these little FZs are the forgotten bastard children of the mid 80s sport bike world. I found a couple places online that sell oem, but they don't sell "kits" per se, just parts. And when I went to order stuff they were out of stock on some things. I'm hoping to get it all together before I start in.
The brackets I'm looking for are #48 & #50 in the pic above. If you have em I'll buy em. Thanks.
 
#5 ·
Thanks again Ned. I just ordered all the carb stuff from Sirius and it was all in stock. Once I get the carbs sorted out I'm on to tires and brakes (if needed).

If you do find that manual my email is mjdonatello @ comcast.net. I appreciate it.

Ken,
I think those two brackets total like $85 if ordered new so I'll either buy what you have, run with now lowers or fabricate them. Thats too much for two pieces of metal in my book.

So much for just parking it and leaving it alone. Jesus, I'm an impatient fucker.
 
#6 ·
quote:Originally posted by mickey356

Seems these little FZs are the forgotten bastard children of the mid 80s sport bike world.
No, fuck no. They are loved and revered by people whom have the proper understanding of what a simple middleweight sportbike should be and look like.

We are above the need to be validated by message boards.

We exist on a higher plane.

Forgot to look for those brackets tonight, know I have some.
 
#7 ·
Mickey, I have been into several sets of those carbs and never needed to replace the needles and seats. I have had to clean the tips of the needles to get the yuck off of them. I also have just taken the calipers apart and cleaned out the o ring grooves, pistons and o rings and put them back together. If you have more time than.money, it is worth a try. I am now 4000 miles away from my bikes, but I can help with info, since I think collectively, we know as much here as anybody on th interwebs.

Ken
 
#8 ·
Thanks Ken(s)!

I was only referring to the parts availability, or seemingly lack there of, not the bike itself. The FZ speaks to me ;)
I swear that bike was made for me. When I sit on it it's like an old pair of jeans :)

As for the carbs and brakes, having the needles and seats if I need them will be nice and hopefully the o rings will be ok when I take the calipers apart. I always feel better going over the basics for piece of mind. As soon as I can get my hands on a manual I'll start tearing into things. I think I can probably handle the petcock rebuild with out one and the carb cleaning as well.
The bike leaks gas from the carbs when it's sitting. Could be anything in there so I'll start with petcock rebuild, carb cleaning and float bowl gaskets.
 
#9 ·
Took the carbs off today (a little tight in the to say the least) and removed the float bowls. The gaskets were hard as rock! (no wonder they were leaking) anyway, the pins for the float arms won't come out. I can't seem to budge them but I'm not forcing much cuz I don't want to tweak the levels by accident. The other thing I noticed was the floats one one carb seem to "bounce" when you tap them but the other three have no spring. They have movement but no "bounce". I have kits on the way but I'm a little stuck as what to do about the float arm pins.

Also, the boots on the airbox are all kinds of warped. I put them in boiling water and that got them seated nicely in the box but the mouths are still a bit kittywampus.
Any suggestions on the pins?

I know this should be in tech but I figure I'm already here.
Thanks
 
#10 ·
Assuming they are the same as any other float pins, small ball peen hammer and a tiny punch. Just be careful.
 
#11 ·
So you know the manual specified way is to take the battery box out, airbox loose ,slide it back, loosen lower subframe bolts, take upper the bolts out, let subframe pivot down

You may have been able to get them off w/o doing this, back together probably not

I put a 1/4" socket up to the far side float pin tower to support it while I drive the pin through. They're tight be careful.

Been having good luck with PBlaster to ungue needles esp the little spring loaded dilly.
 
#12 ·
Ha! Ken, you're a good man!! I said the same thing to my self when I got them out. Ironically, even without the manual, I did everything but the subframe. I actuall started to loosen the right side and stopped thinking I can't possibly have to go that far ;) that'll make getting them back in much easier for sure.

It's obvious someone has been in there already as
One of the gaskets was different. Also the same carb was missing the little wire loop that keeps it attached to the float tang (or at least I couldn't find it if it came off), so that may answer the leaking gas question.
I have sprayed pb on the screws for the needle seats (they're stuck on really tight) and on the screws for the petcock, frozen as well. I'm a little worried about what to do if I can't get them off. Impact driver on the tank? Na huh. Impact driver on the carbs? Na huh either. What's my other option? And I'm even less willing to drill for fear of f'ing the threads.
 
#13 ·
A little helping getting the pins out....grab a solder gun or pen and hold it on the post with the head end of the pin. This will slightly expand the aluminum and hopefully less force is req'd.
You receive my PM about the manuals?

NE
 
#14 ·
Thanks, Nate. I did end up getting the pins out using Marks method (thanks, Mark).

Still not sure what I'm gonna do abou those seats and the tank. I'm hoping the PB Blaster does the trick (I'll try again tomorrow). I may be able to get to most of them and cut a slot for a big flat head but one of the ones on the petcock can't be accessed with a dremel. And worse I can't apply heat to a gas tank and I ain't pounding on it with an impact either, the tank is already dented (repairable) but I'm not gonna risk putting more dents in it. These frozen screws piss me off!! BIG pet peeve! I know it's part of the deal but I don't gotta like it.

Never got the PM. my email is mjdonatello@comcast.net in case I didn't typw it correctly before. Thanks again!
 
#15 ·
quote:Originally posted by kenessex


Mickey, I have been into several sets of those carbs and never needed to replace the needles and seats. I have had to clean the tips of the needles to get the yuck off of them. I also have just taken the calipers apart and cleaned out the o ring grooves, pistons and o rings and put them back together. If you have more time than.money, it is worth a try. I am now 4000 miles away from my bikes, but I can help with info, since I think collectively, we know as much here as anybody on th interwebs.

Ken
Ken,
Is it likely I shouldn't HAVE to replace these?
[
]
(Shit. My photobuck arrow isn't showing up. Its the hole that the float needle goes into (seat?). You can see the screw has been cut.)
I'd be super glad cuz they aint coming out!! After sitting all night with PB on them I cut a slot into one and it still wouldn't budge!
Please, please, please, tell me I only needle to replace float needles and float bowl gaskets and I'm good to go.
 
#16 ·
Mickey,
How does the taper on the needles look? Are they solid brass or do they have a rubber tip? I have found that many times there is just a build up of guck (technical term) on the taper and in the seat. If there is a groove in the taper, they may not seal (or they might). If it was on a customer's bike, I would replace any needle or seat that shows some wear. On my bike, I would clean it really well, put it back together, hook up a fuel line and see if the carbs leak. If they don't I would put them back on the bike. If they do, I would grab another rack of carbs out of the box on the shelf and use them instead.

Ken
 
#17 ·
quote:Originally posted by mickey356



Ken,
Is it likely I shouldn't HAVE to replace these?
There is an o-ring underneath the float valve seat. It may or may not be perished / leaking. Also there is a mesh filter in there that will probably need cleaning.
Are you getting the complete float valve and seat kit? If so, take the old ones out. Try a small pair of vise-grips on the screw head to break the thread lock. Then squirt a bit of your favorite penetrating fluid (PB, Kroil, WD40) in where the o-ring is and wiggle the old seat out. Put a dab of the same penetrating fluid on the new o-ring seat to re-install (just a drop).
 
#18 ·
Ken,
The tapers are rubber. Some had groves some didn't. And uh....... I don't have another rack on the shelf ;)
The bike only has 3900 miles on it but I guess thats pointless regaring the carbs, especially since it's been sitting.

Hillsy,
I am getting seats with the kits. I'll do my best to get these out but they are a mother! They're really really in there. They've been sitting for 2 days with PB on them. I'll give the vise grips a shot when I get home tonight.
 
#19 ·
Got one out!
For such a f'ing tiny screw I can't believe they're that frozen. Must be varnished in. More PB overnight then I'll try the other again in the morning. If I can't get them out I'll swing by my buddies shop and try an extractor. There's not much pivot room to use vise grips efficiently.
The kits should be in tomorrow and I'd like to get these sorted put and the bike up and running so I can stare at it and convince myself to spend my last dollar on new tires.
 
#20 ·
Got one out!
For such a f'ing tiny screw I can't believe they're that frozen. Must be varnished in. More PB overnight then I'll try the other again in the morning. If I can't get them out I'll swing by my buddies shop and try an extractor. There's not much pivot room to use vise grips efficiently.
The kits should be in tomorrow and I'd like to get these sorted put and the bike up and running so I can stare at it and convince myself to spend my last dollar on new tires.
 
#21 ·
You only need enough swing room on the vise grips to just "crack" the thread, but you're right - there's not a lot of room in there.

Another option would be to put the individual carb on a block of wood (take the top, diaphragm spring and slide out) and with the aid of a suitable punch / drift give the head of the screw a few hits. This might jar the threads loose (it will also re-shape the screw head back to something resembling a phillips head). Proceed with extreme caution though.....

And new tyres should have been bought yesterday.
 
#22 ·
You only need enough swing room on the vise grips to just "crack" the thread, but you're right - there's not a lot of room in there.

Another option would be to put the individual carb on a block of wood (take the top, diaphragm spring and slide out) and with the aid of a suitable punch / drift give the head of the screw a few hits. This might jar the threads loose (it will also re-shape the screw head back to something resembling a phillips head). Proceed with extreme caution though.....

And new tyres should have been bought yesterday.
 
#24 ·
Got those bitches off with my buddys small impact driver. The new seats had to be tapped in lightly, very snug. I used allen head screws this time so if I have to get them out again I can.
One of the jets wouldn't snug up. I think it's stripped. I can't get it out with my hand so it's "tight-ish" but I'm not completely comfy leaving it in there. Am I correct in the mains are 107.5? If so, I'll order some back ups just in case.
The petcock rebuild kit didn't come with the right parts. I could only use a couple so I cleaned it really good and put it back together using the new parts I could.
I hooked the carbs up to the fuel tank and and let them fill up and sit there. No leaks! Next step is putting them back in and running it. Fingers crossed.
 
#23 ·
Got those bitches off with my buddys small impact driver. The new seats had to be tapped in lightly, very snug. I used allen head screws this time so if I have to get them out again I can.
One of the jets wouldn't snug up. I think it's stripped. I can't get it out with my hand so it's "tight-ish" but I'm not completely comfy leaving it in there. Am I correct in the mains are 107.5? If so, I'll order some back ups just in case.
The petcock rebuild kit didn't come with the right parts. I could only use a couple so I cleaned it really good and put it back together using the new parts I could.
I hooked the carbs up to the fuel tank and and let them fill up and sit there. No leaks! Next step is putting them back in and running it. Fingers crossed.
 
#26 ·
My FZ(stock jetting/airbox) is really cold blooded when it comes to idle speed. Made me crazy at first, thinking there was an air leak, even after new manifolds.
At start-up, full choke, idle is 1200-ish; 2 minutes-2500+rpm; 2min/choke off-rough at 500rpm. Takes 10 minutes of town riding for idle to be where I like it(1100-1200rpm).
Wish these carbs had a high idle/no enrichment system instead of the typical Mikuni enrichener system.

NE
 
#25 ·
My FZ(stock jetting/airbox) is really cold blooded when it comes to idle speed. Made me crazy at first, thinking there was an air leak, even after new manifolds.
At start-up, full choke, idle is 1200-ish; 2 minutes-2500+rpm; 2min/choke off-rough at 500rpm. Takes 10 minutes of town riding for idle to be where I like it(1100-1200rpm).
Wish these carbs had a high idle/no enrichment system instead of the typical Mikuni enrichener system.

NE
 
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