I spent most of 2006-2011 surfing ebay.it and secondamano.it looking at Moto Guzzi Monzas and Imolas , Moto Moring 3 1/2s and Laverda 350s all in my price range. Did I come back with a bike? Nope.Doesn't seem that many years ago, that I turned down the chance to buy a very nice, very original, early drum brake 3 1/2 Sport for £1300..... Bugger.
Buying Bikes and cars off of ebay is always sketchy anyway. But when you live in semi-rural areas like I do, the options are limitedI spent most of 2006-2011 surfing ebay.it and secondamano.it looking at Moto Guzzi Monzas and Imolas , Moto Moring 3 1/2s and Laverda 350s all in my price range. Did I come back with a bike? Nope.
I have spent a lot of time and money on bringing the bike to its current condition. I no longer have the time or money, a child will do that.
The bike has most of the parts except-Steering stem, Headlight, Wiring, Tach, Speedo, Cam shaft bearings and as with any project there will be more.
I have a lot of pictures from the entire process, let me know if you want to see them and I will send you the link.
Recently a mechanic that restores older bikes reviewed everything and his opinion is below:
1) Positively ID year and model of frame and engine. Purchase shop manual and parts list for both - $100
2) Assemble frame and running gear.
A) Remove and re-install steering stem, front forks, swing arm and rear shocks to insure proper assembly -1.5 hours
B) Secure forward inner rear fender section, weld taillight bracket to rear frame loop--mask welded area and repaint black -1.0 hours
C) Steering stem knob is badly broken and there is no provision for steering stops. Will need to repair or replace or eliminate steering dampener knob and purchase or fabricate steering stops -.0.5 hours/parts: $45
D) Finish assembly of front end: confirm forks assembled correctly, add fork oil, install forks with external unshrouded springs, headlight brackets, clip on handlebars and steering stops. Drill and install front fender and install front wheel, first confirming that brake shoes are use-able. -2.5 hours / parts: $10
E) Headlight assembly looks Japanese? May need to have a custom speedometer cable fabricated. Sublet...$50
F) Install hand controls and square away control cables. There are a bunch of cables. Some may be -use-able, some may be needed, especially to accommodate very short handlebars-1.0 hour /parts $50
G) There are no electrical switches. We'll need a way to turn engine on and off, turn headlight/taillight on and off or at least switch high to low beam. Run a brake light and a horn if must be street legal. We will need to run a battery or at least a capacitor or change over to expensive electronic ignition. -1.5 hours / parts $100
H) Mount ignition coil, footrests, wheels, tank and seat. Fuel valves in box very rough, will need new ones or rebuilt -2.0 hours /parts $75
3) Assemble a use-able engine at minimum expense with the understanding that after a trial assembly and test run of 100 miles, it is very possible that the motor will need to come back out for a more thorough overhaul. This assumes leaving the bottom end together. Alternately you might choose to disassemble the bottom end for a crankshaft overhaul and to replace all the bearings seals and gaskets which would add something like $500-$750 to the project. If money were no object and the finest possible result were primary concerns this would be the way to go. My preference would be to get the entire motorcycle together and functional then de-bugging and overhauling as needed over time.
A) Cylinder is freshly re-bored. Assuming precision measurement confirms visual impression it can be used with the new piston, rings and circlips supplied. There is no new wrist pin but the old wrist pin
B) Cylinder head not so good. The spark plug hole had been partially welded up. This is not the usual way to repair thread damage leaving me to wonder if there was a crack or what was the reason for
starting to weld the hole shut? At this point I would propose to bring it to a trusted clever machinist. I think the hole can be welded up totally, then re-drilled and threaded but it must be done precisely to
insure the spark plug seals and is correctly positioned within the combustion chamber. The valves and springs look nice and clean but I would want to remove them to insure that the valves, guides, seals and seats are all in good shape --Sublet $200
C) The cam shaft bearings are rusting and will need replaced right away. The lobes on the cam, one especially, show substantial wear as do the rockers, suggesting a lack of lubrication to the top end..
Still, the engine will run with these parts, though with a bit of ticking noise and power loss. There is little danger of anything breaking or causing further damage so I would propose to assemble the engine
with these parts. Once everything is together and it runs and all the hurtles have been overcome it will not be very difficult to replace the cam and rockers without removing the engine or the cylinder head --parts $50
D) The shift linkage sub assembly within the engine side cover works normally but should be opened for inspection, cleaning and lubrication. Ditto for the oil pump 2.0 hours
E) The internal transmission shifts OK on the bench. We won't know if it performs adequately on the road until we're together and running, unless we do a complete bottom end tear down first. Again, my inclination is to put everything together and evaluate what we have. If the engine has to come out for transmission work it's only 3 or 4 hours to take it out and put it back in, a small amount of time/expense to risk compared to the larger picture.
F) I lubricated the main bearings and the big end bearing. They feel smooth and no free play detected. Of course a complete crank overhaul and all new bearings seals and gaskets for the bottom end would be safest and a full on restoration would involve going all the way but I say let's make a complete motorcycle that runs then go from there.
G) Assemble and install engine 7.0 hours
H) Point to point wire entire machine -5.0 hours
I) Clean and install carb and plumbing for oil delivery to top end, fuel system and crankcase breather. Install exhaust muffler and try to use one of the unsightly header pipes provided (for now) 3.0 hours
J) Debug, tune, re-jet, test ride, tweak and evaluate results 3.0 hours
PARTS ESTIMATE................................................. $500
LABOR ESTIMATE..40 HOURS x $40/HOUR.... $1600
SUBLET LABOR.............................................. $250
HARDWARE, CHEMICALS, SHOP SUPPLIES... $75
ALLOWANCE FOR UNKNOWABLES............... $275
This would yield a running, ride-able bike with a shop manual and parts book still in need of development such as fresh cam and rockers and extensive cosmetic detailing.
Lol, ill do that.Oh, just keep hanging around and paying attention, you'll be on the inside before ya know it.
Like it or not.