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Discussion Starter #1
Just picked this up today:









The pictures make it look better than it is. Most of the chrome is rusty and the aluminum is corroded. Not a good restoration candidate but just fine for a FCB bike.

I've got most of the chassis parts already - spares from a T500 race project but I could use any advice you can spare on the engine prep side of things. For example - how tough is it to replace the cam chain, rub blocks, and tensioner?

Thanks,

Jim
 

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Hey Jim,
Nice score. I would start by pulling the motor. Remove the top end, clutch cover, and alternator cover. Pull the starter motor and rotor. Remove all the starter clutch parts from the back of the rotor and then put it back on. Clean the oil filter and pull the clutch plates. I sand with an orbital sander or bead blast the steel plates and sand or replace the fiber plates. Replace the clutch springs with springs for a CB550. I used Vesrah I think. This is a good time to come up with a starter hole plug. I do not recommend pulling the kick starter shaft at this time. I would make sure you drill the oil drain plug and oil filler cap at this time for the safety wire. That is about it for the bottom end, unless you are going to replace the cam chain. Everybody says you must replace the stock chain with a heavy duty one and have to replace the stock tensioner and slippers. If you don't you will break one and totally destroy your entire engine. Except I have never replaced the cam chain or tensioners in any of my race engines and haven't lost one yet. So, take a good look at your parts and decide what you need to do.
Next, pull the top end and see what it looks like. If your bore is good, clean up the pistons and replace the rings. If it does not look that good, then look at going with 1mm over stock pistons. Check out the tensioner slippers and roller. If the slippers are grooved, replace them. I would do a good valve job and reassemble the engine. Now is a good time to make sure the exhaust stud nuts are drilled for safetywire. If you are going to replace the cam chain, then flip the motor on its back and pull the bottom case off and replace the chain. Check out the shift forks and the engagement dogs on second gear, they are sometimes rounded. The engine is pretty straight forward and shouldn't prove too difficult.

Ken

I always pull the choke plates and shafts out of my carbs and fill the shft holes with epoxy and smooth it out.
 

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All due respect to Ken, first thing is to REMOVE THAT GODFORSAKEN WINDSHIELD, THAT CURSED F*CKING SISSY BAR/LUGGAGE RACK and that PUTRID HIGHWAY BAR and throw them as far away from you as you can.

End the shame that poor 350 has had to endure.

Oh, the horror, the horror...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
quote:Originally posted by krapfever


All due respect to Ken, first thing is to REMOVE THAT GODFORSAKEN WINDSHIELD, THAT CURSED F*CKING SISSY BAR/LUGGAGE RACK and that PUTRID HIGHWAY BAR and throw them as far away from you as you can.

End the shame that poor 350 has had to endure.

Oh, the horror, the horror...
Really? I was hoping to get USCRA to let me run with them on the bike. I figure that windshield is worth 2-3MPH on the top end!

The sad bit is I will probably be able to resell all the extra crap on ebay....
 

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I am particularly fond of the crash guard. You should either keep that on the bike for racing or perhaps someone from Wanker racing could use it.

Ken
 

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DiamondJ,

Seriously, sell me that windshield, mirrors and luggage rack real cheap. Throw the sissy bar on the dump. I have a commuter 360 for them to go on for a while. That windshield is FUGLY, but I don't care as long as it isn't cracked or scratched.

Jack
 

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if you dont do anything to it, you can race in 350gp with wera. its legal.


:D

jc
 

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Thought the "Sissy bar" would work like a roll bar. Be a bitchin place to put a camera for that special "Let's look at the riders ass" GP P.O.V.
 
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