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No, not that kind of bike.









She's participating in an upcoming triathalon (Iron Goddess!), and we found this on the side of the road for $30. Never heard of them, but it'll serve her much better than her Cnnondale mountain bike. I know there are some bicycle freaks on here. What can you tell me (her) about it (other than, "You can't go wrong for $30")? Anybody ever heard of Dawes?
 

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http://www.dawescycles.com/

supposedly UK's oldest mfg of bikes. doesn't mean they are good, just old. Like the schwinn of england. the more modern ones are made in asia and are junk - the built in england ones are better. I see you have the union jack sticker next to the crank, look around other places on that frame and make sure it is not one of the asia ones.

word on the street is that they are mid-level, comparable to trek. The only issues I have heard about is bad brazing on the frames for certain years, so check the frame for any cracks. if it doesn't have them by now they probably won't show up in the next 1000 miles.

The galaxy range is supposedly quality, the lightning with no name parts is not. no idea about the ultra.

I would weigh that sucker. Most real high end road bikes are 16-18lbs, a mid level road bike is 20-26lbs. If it is outside of that she is going to be pushing a lot of steel down the road and should consider making it lighter.
 

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The frame on that one is too big for Gurl. The top frame tube is about at her hip level, and needs to be a few inches lower than that. My guess is that frame is about the right size for someone 6' foot plus.
 

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no, theyre not that good...but 30 bucks is a nice price for a complete bike. recently theyve sunk down to walmart levels with the dawes ''lightning''... not UK made anymore. i had a LEADER frame i built up for races...super light and cheap and built in the usa.
 

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Well, to completely 'fess up....the Tri I am doing for my first one is rather wimpy...1/4 mile swim, 10 mile bike ride and 1.5 mile run. And since most of my energy (and mental well-being) will be spent remembering how to swim and breathe, ANY street bike is easier than my chunky mountain bike.

What has been the most amusing today is watching my wrench toting man get it all gussied up for me. Imagine what he would do if it had a motor in it!

It has very slim aluminum rims that are marked 'made in Europe'. There are stickers on them that says Vuelta by Rodi. So near Judey can figure it is not associated with Dawes USA. It does have a Union Jack sticker that says "British Made"...(sorry RetroTony). It did come with a Cannondale front brake and handy preston valve pump made by Blackburn.

Best part of it? It now has the name Blue Racer...local snake found in this area.

In the next couple weeks I have to beg Catboy to come over and share his wisdom...and tires.
 

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quote:the Tri I am doing for my first one is rather wimpy...1/4 mile swim, 10 mile bike ride and 1.5 mile run.
Nothing wrong with that. Although it might not sound like much, the transitions are TOUGH. Especially the bike to run. Even after only 10 miles, your legs will feel like concrete as you try to get them to do the run thing. A little advice; if you haven't heard it already, practice the transitions as part of your training. That way you won't be surprised when your legs don't want to work! Good luck.

I'm about ready to transition from a beer into my Martini. Much easier.

Cheers,
Leo
 

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For $30.00 you can't go wrong, it will cost way more than that for a woman's saddle (wider across back and shorter in nose, if you go carbon/Ti start looking around $120.00~$200.00)
Probably want a shorter stem, women generally have shorter torso and longer legs than men, pick up a cheap mountain bike or even BMX one, bars are all 7/8".
Look like touring rims, probably 20~25mm?
18~20lbs bikes started around $4,000 last time I looked
If its under 30lbs, don't worry about it, going to be way better than any mountain bike for a 10 mile bimble .
Only downside I see is non-indexed gearchange, need to do some miles to get used to it.
There is going to be a massive amout of information online about set up, triathlon is slightly different to 'normal' cycling (friends son was doing competitive triathlon for a few years)
You can always fit mountain bike bars after your done, older road bikes make pretty good hybrids.
PJ
 

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my fave triathlon is dirt track racing sat, poker sat night, round of golf on sunday. I hope to enter a couple of these this season.

good luck in your race. cheers, bcr
 

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quote:Originally posted by The Girl

Well, to completely 'fess up....the Tri I am doing for my first one is rather wimpy...1/4 mile swim, 10 mile bike ride and 1.5 mile run. And since most of my energy (and mental well-being) will be spent remembering how to swim and breathe, ANY street bike is easier than my chunky mountain bike.
Don't worry about tob tube height and all that crap. Stand-over height means nothing. If the distance between the pedals, seat, and bars fits you, then the bike works. You might need to move the seat forward to get it to work. Take a picture of you sitting on the bike, crank vertical, feet on the pedals, and hands resting on the top of the brake hoods. You can see what needs to move around based on that.

This site has some good info on getting a bike to fit.
http://www.bikesportmichigan.com/wheels/wheels.shtml


Good luck with the tri. I love doing them, mostly because of all the hot, fit women wearing tight clothing.
 

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quote:Stand-over height means nothing.
you're what 6-3 ung man? no bike will present a stand over issue for you. but for the less vertically endowed, getting off a bike with too high a top tube while fragged out after the bike section of a triathlon with slippery roadie shoe bottoms could be a bummer (or some other part "-er".) i, for one, like the top tube a safe distance away from my program.
...$30.00...you get what you pay for. if the bike is well prepared, lubed, and set up, it will work fine. weight only matters if the tt course is higher at the finish than at the start. tt and tri bikes aren't necessarily light.
-parks
 

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Ubiquitous entry level road bike, circa 1992-ish.
6 spd shifter should have indexing and friction mode available.
$30 is a deal.
Put real, round chainrings on it, new tires, have the wheels trued and tensioned and throw that saddle on the Interstate. A good saddle is key. In fact, pull the one off your Cannondale and use it. Your butt knows it.
Sizing wise, it does look a tad big. Can The Girl stand over the top tube? A frame to large may be made rideable, but by shortening the stem and moving the saddle forward, the handling and feel of the bike is off. Let alone the riders position relative to the bottom bracket.
If all the parts look good, maybe consider a frame swap in the near future. All the parts there will fit any other 1" steerer tubed bike of the general era.
Enough room for fenders...would make a great commuter.

NE
 

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Discussion Starter #19
quote:Ubiquitous entry level road bike, circa 1992-ish.
6 spd shifter should have indexing and friction mode available.
$30 is a deal.
Put real, round chainrings on it, new tires, have the wheels trued and tensioned and throw that saddle on the Interstate. A good saddle is key. In fact, pull the one off your Cannondale and use it. Your butt knows it.
Sizing wise, it does look a tad big. Can The Girl stand over the top tube?

Ok. First, forgive any improper bicycle lingo. It's not my area of expertise. And thanks for all the replies. Much more info than I was able to dig up on my own, and exactly what I was looking for.
6spd is indeed indexed. New tires are in the works, as these are all but falling of into piles of dust. Wheels look to be remarkably straight & true. As for seat... this comment made me laugh; Bought the bike minus seat & pedals. Both of those come from my first ever 10 speed, which is still with me from the 70s (God knows why). I had already suggested her Cannondale seat. Gurl can stand over it, barely flat footing it. Pedaling, she can almost extend her leg fully, with a slight bend in the knee. We got it together this afternoon, just so she could give it a test ride, and she says it's comfortable.
I'm most intrigued by your chainring comment. Knowing nothing about bicycles, I've swallowed every bike shop proprietor's ravings about elliptic sprockets. Can you expound?

As far as being a good commuter, work for her is literally in her backyard, across the road. She does, however, have a "Rails to Trails" recreation trail across the street, so it may well end up seeing much use there. I consider it $30 well spent.
 

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curb man eyeballed the bio-pace rings (i missed)...round rings fell out of favor briefly around the late eighties on mt. bikes...many good bikes came with bio-pace or oval-tech rings. the trend didn't last long. funny that non round rings are again appearing on the tt/triathlon scene. if you can salvage some round rings from a doner bike, make the play. but spending a ton of dough on that detail (getting new round chain rings) will yield negligible returns on a budding new racer. +1 on the seat and tires...money well spent.
-parks
 
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