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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, we had a thread a bit ago about welding - Hack, can you (or anyone else who actively oxy welds) give me some pointers about picking up used (or inexpensive new) welding and cutting torches?

Any brands or torch types in particular to stay away from? What kinds of welding torches are good for, say, up to 1/4" or so materials? Is MAPP appropriate for aluminum and/or stainless? Are there certain types of cylinders to avoid? What's a reasonable price for this kind of equipment?

On my own experience - I've stuck some metal together with a mig box once or twice, but other than that the only metal joining experience I have is soldering smt electronics. So, I don't know jack about it.

I'd really like to try my hand at this, and it seems appropriate to most of the jobs I'd do, and give me a nice set of tools for brazing as well, plus, hey, its FIRE :) </beavisandbutthead>
 

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Torch welding is one of the more challenging, and outdated, types out there...though its not a bad skill to have when you're really in a pinch. Personally I think the "Cobra" torch heads are the best for welding (hell they even cut almost like a plasma cutter even), but they run in the $400 range. http://shop.cobratorch.com/category.sc?categoryId=2

With plenty of practice you can get good at doing it with regular torch heads, but even for a beginner the Cobra makes it easy to get the proper penetration without blowing through (sheetmetal anyway).
 

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a nice thing about torch welding is that much of the skills translate directly over to TIG. not a bad skill to learn overall. it is also nice that you can use the same rig to weld, cut, and braze. the added bonus? awesome grilled cheese sandwiches made right in your shop!!!

oh by the way....your question on MAPP. mapp is about as useful as old diapers.
 

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the henrob or dillon torch may be the same as the cobra

I never owned a set but tried them out

worth the money and much more effective and efficient than the same old same old conventional smiths or whatever of those types


I've not ever used mapp or propane to weld so sorry I can't be any help there but learning to completely use oxy-acet will go a long way in a small shop

most people couldn't tell you if a flame is rich, neutral, or lean

much less have a clue why one would need either of the three and for what

I know that the military tutorial, and maybe foxvalley's votech manauls can be found online and unfortunately I don't have those links after countless computer crashes

but they are worth digging for and saving

let me know if you find them

I ran across the military one posted in maybe hobart's welding forum some time back and forgot to chase it


it's really this simple

learn to set your flame as best suited for what you are doing

then learn to pull a puddle thru metal

next step is to learn to autogenously join two pieces of overlapping metal together

then add some non-straight lines

then try it with them butted together

then a t joint

and so on

and for sure

once you learn to gas weld

tig will be effortless and you will find it quite easy with NASA precision right at your finger and foot tip


for best results welding apply the common sense tenet that applies to say shooting firearms, photography... and other similar things


get comfortable and use your smarts to position yourself and your work so as to steady the torch hand and reduce point a to point b as much as possible


think opposite the image in your head of the flambouyant painter using the long paint brush held with a few finger tips and splashing paint on his canvas from three steps back


get up close and right up on your work

brace yourself off what is available and make it easy for yourself
 

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quote:Originally posted by HackAsaw

the henrob or dillon torch may be the same as the cobra

I never owned a set but tried them out

worth the money and much more effective and efficient than the same old same old conventional smiths or whatever of those types
Ya, the henrob or "DHC-2000" is the same thing.
 

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that midget torch is far removed from the dillon/henrob/cobra

if one were to go that route

there are plenty of small jewelers type torches that can be had for a song

hoke is a good one that will do anything the meco will do

did you catch the price on the set?

more than a new dillon

I have many of the smaller torches including a meco

I'd suggest getting a good used smiths set with all the various heads (several sizes of brazing and welding, rosebud, cutting etc) to go with it for vehicle shop use

easy to find for 50 bucks or so and easily serviced a lifetime
 

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veriflow makes one nicer than the meco

national orthodontic makes one very similar (uses the same body) that kicks butt too

I suppose I could snap a few pix but they are truly not heavy enough for many things done in my shop when it comes to bike/car things

nice to have though when you can snag that kinda stuff on ebay for cheap
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
it turns out my brother knows someone who's getting rid of a couple torch sets (they were his grandfathers') - he's a good friend of my brother so if he still has 'em I might even get them for free :D

Not high-end, but free is hard to beat if they're in good shape.
 

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free torches are like free motorcycles - you are going to have to pay to rebuild them.

Quick story: a buddy of mine gave me a free henrob torch setup to industrial tanks that was a close friends. The friend had passed away and nobody knew how long the setup had been sitting. The airline body was massive looks like you could have built bridges with the damn thing. Anyway since my father and I always oxy welded (and he welds a lot - me not so much) i figured this could be my own setup and I could quit using the old kit he had been using for decades. In my capricious and excitable youth I rushed this setup home and set it up in the driveway to test it out. I checked over everything, gauges, lines, all looked good but didn't check the torch body. I lit it off and flame came out nice at the tip and then at the base of the body, and then at the adjustment knob till basically fire was shooting out of every possible orifice in the airline body. my buddy shut the tanks off and when I stopped the massive hyperventilation and string of expletives I decided to have the torch and gauges rebuilt. The torch works fantastic now and has been super reliable for many years although I don't do much welding these days since my buddy bought a massive tig unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I can see that I should never use a used torch without at least replacing the seals. In my reading online I have discovered that is the safest route. I saw a pic somewhere of a torch body that the flame had receded into. The body of the torch had begun to melt in the operator's hand, it was all warped and goofy-looking.

note to self: no oil on oxygen fittings, no matter how sticky they are. I have heard lurid details of what happens when LOX or pure oxygen hits grease. it ain't pretty.
 

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My old man's hard on torches and likes to supertune things. I've had two instances of burnback in the lines to the point where it burned the hose off at the regulator. That's a fire.

It's funny now. Hell it was funny then. The same buddy was there to freak out both times, but a good way to hurt someone or burn your shop down.

The torch body that was involved in the first incident we sent in probably a dozen times. They could never get it right, finally gave us credit toward a new one.

The second body is still in use. If I feel the handle getting warm I turn off the tank valve. Not smart, don't be like me.
 

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Look at the Meeco Midget on TM Technologies: Tools, Sheet Metal Shaping Machines, & Gas Welding Supplies for Better Metalworking

http://tinmantech.chainreactionweb.com/html/meco_midget_torch.php?cart=7738ddd1c518b34bcfff82c0c46273ac

I've had one for a few years now, works great for the lighter stuff. Doesn't cut though, but for the difference in cost between it and the Henrob, I decided I could live with that and to be honest haven't missed that feature.
Hi, thanks for sharing the information. It seems that the second link you provided is broken or not available. Please provide valid link. I want to read about this. Thanks,
 

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Hi, thanks for sharing the information. It seems that the second link you provided is broken or not available. Please provide valid link. I want to read about this. Thanks,

Click on that link, it's all there.

I'm surprised you couldn't find any information on the website of a place that sells it, but if you really want to track down a 12 year old link that's no longer valid there are things you can do.

Curses!!! I tried it and this is what I got!


Dang, if they don't have it I'm not sure where to find information like that. Then again, even if they had it, the information would be 12 years old. Drats! If only there was a way to search for current information without having a link to follow.

Wait a minute... this obscure site might work


D'oh! Over 20,000 results to sort through! I'm sorry dude, you're on your own. It would take seconds to type in a more specific search term, and then over half a second for the computer to do it's thing. Who has that kind of time?


EDIT; Hold the phone, I found a video that shows the info you need.

 
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