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Hailing from the MidWest

4353 Views 21 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  rookie
Greetings fellow bike owners and enthusiast alike.

Dropping in to get greasy and learn lots. I look forward to reading more and more about the love of Café Racers. I've been stalking the forums for about a month, purchase my 71 CB750 in March, and am very excited to get back on 2 wheels. After a final tour abroad, I am retired now and ready to move on to my hobby of riding, tinkering, and falling into love with the wind again.

She should be road worthy in a week or so after a mechanical inspection and some mild replacements of the usual Barn-Find-Aged parts. My thanks to the guys at Vintage Spoke in Kansas for the assistance. I look forward to turning this beauty into whatever she grows to be. Criticism and critiques' are very welcome as this is my first vintage bike, although I would like to convert her into a non-chop mild café racer.

Thanks in advance for all the advise I have read so far. There is a serious wealth of knowledge here. You guys and gals have given me lots of things to think/dream on. :D

Rookie

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Congratulations on making it to YOUR TIME. That's a clean looking bike, glad to hear your not going to hack it up.
If it were mine i'd get rid of those hideous pipes and sell them - I could probably hook you up with a buyer.
Tom,

I've been told 4-4 pipes in this shape are pretty difficult to come by. And with my intentions, I believe they are at home for now. We'll see what happens next Spring when I get ancy to upgrade/lighten her up some.
Tom,

I've been told 4-4 pipes in this shape are pretty difficult to come by. And with my intentions, I believe they are at home for now. We'll see what happens next Spring when I get ancy to upgrade/lighten her up some.
Hard to tell sarcasm on the net without emogies.
Don't know what you paid for the bike, but those pipes were at least $1K of it if they are originals.
I'd be taking those pipes off, covering them in WD40, bagging them in plastic and storing them in the attic.

Throw a 4-1 Mac on it.
I'd leave the pipes, (I don't agree with the hideous comment) and start with shocks, fork springs, tires and handlebars.
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I'd leave the pipes, (I don't agree with the hideous comment) and start with shocks, fork springs, tires and handlebars.
Went over your head also.:rolleyes:
Hard to tell sarcasm on the net without emogies.
Don't know what you paid for the bike, but those pipes were at least $1K of it if they are originals.
Suggestions on validating authenticity? I'll have her home next week I suspect.
Went over your head also.:rolleyes:
Didn't read it as sarcasm, just as another stupid comment by a wankcycle builder.
Didn't read it as sarcasm, just as another stupid comment by a wankcycle builder.
That's why I commented you can't tell sarcasm with out the smiley he neglected to post with it. He would be the buyer he could hook him up with.
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That's why I commented you can't tell sarcasm with out the smiley he neglected to post with it. He would be the buyer he could hook him up with.
I just read them as there written.
I just read them as there written.
You believe everything you read on the net? :D
Suggestions on validating authenticity? I'll have her home next week I suspect.
They will be stamped with EPA compliance and Honda part number info, etc. It will be obvious.
2
I just read it as a dude trying to poach pipes. And Mark, those are HM341s not the earlier HM300s so I doubt $1K is the order of the day. Don't get me wrong - they are still expensive and hard to find but still....

here is my old 1975 SOHC:




Here is what I recommend:
- Keep the stock pipes.
- Put a K&N stock filter replacement in the airbox. Forget any "pods", this works the best.
- Good Tires, I prefer Metzler Lasertecs but Avon Roadriders are also great.
- Do the dual disc conversion, or better yet a 1975-1977 GL1000 front end swap
- Alloy rims. If you do the GL1000 swap the front wheel will be a 19" alloy. Ideally you want 18" front and rear though.
- Superbike bars, you'll need the leverage
- new steering head bearings. For some reason cb750s chew these up
- Classic Cycle City Guilari replica seat
- fiberglass replacement rear fender. Nice clean originals are hard to come by because everyone seems to bash them and they rust. Also the whole rear fender and stock taillight weigh way too much.
- Calfab swingarm now that they are back in production again.
- Decent shocks. Hagon for budget, Ohlins or works for bling.
- If you feel like you need rearsets raaks and Tarozzi both make setups. I would go with tarozzi as the raask are high and tight racer crouch, tarozzi are better for performance street riding. With a superbike bar however I doubt you will need them.
- metal flake or candy paint. Flat anything is for losers - 70's is all about sparkle.

That ought to sort you out. Figure you'll spend about $2K-$3K all said and done.
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Quite a serious bunch here. Yes - that was sarcasm.
I have been here like a week, know nothing about Hondas and I knew he was joking.
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I just read it as a dude trying to poach pipes. And Mark, those are HM341s not the earlier HM300s so I doubt $1K is the order of the day. Don't get me wrong - they are still expensive and hard to find but still....

here is my old 1975 SOHC:




Here is what I recommend:
- Keep the stock pipes.
- Put a K&N stock filter replacement in the airbox. Forget any "pods", this works the best.
- Good Tires, I prefer Metzler Lasertecs but Avon Roadriders are also great.
- Do the dual disc conversion, or better yet a 1975-1977 GL1000 front end swap
- Alloy rims. If you do the GL1000 swap the front wheel will be a 19" alloy. Ideally you want 18" front and rear though.
- Superbike bars, you'll need the leverage
- new steering head bearings. For some reason cb750s chew these up
- Classic Cycle City Guilari replica seat
- fiberglass replacement rear fender. Nice clean originals are hard to come by because everyone seems to bash them and they rust. Also the whole rear fender and stock taillight weigh way too much.
- Calfab swingarm now that they are back in production again.
- Decent shocks. Hagon for budget, Ohlins or works for bling.
- If you feel like you need rearsets raaks and Tarozzi both make setups. I would go with tarozzi as the raask are high and tight racer crouch, tarozzi are better for performance street riding. With a superbike bar however I doubt you will need them.
- metal flake or candy paint. Flat anything is for losers - 70's is all about sparkle.

That ought to sort you out. Figure you'll spend about $2K-$3K all said and done.
I really like your recommendation for the "Classic Cycle City Guilari replica seat." I hadn't been to that site yet. THANKS!!

I am leaning more towards Loaded Gun sets, had a friend with some Tar's and they didn't pan out well. The jury is still out.


Appreciate the guidance, many things to consider.
What didn't pan out with tarozi rear sets? Did he buy universal or an actual kit to fit his bike?

Here red is why I don't like the loaded gun custom ones:
- they are universal. This means you need to figure out how to mount them and that usually means fabrication or sticking them in the passenger peg slot. Unless you are 6'5" like me the passenger peg mount will be too far back. It also means you have to fab the linkages which is an invatation to screw something up if you are not used to working with linkages...which brings me to my second point....

- the peg to pull tab is not adjustable. One of the biggest issues that plague custom controls, be it rear sets or forward controls, is the linkage geometry. Improper setup means binding, improper travel, sometimes decreased braking force applied, etc...most of it caused by having the linkage at an incorrect angle to the force being applied or an improperly bent rod to clear something. When I bought my ironhead sporty it had these junky forward controls on it that didn't work. Two previous owners couldn't figure it out. I looked at it and saw the pull tab angle was past center and the lever wasn't putting enough travel into the system. When I moved it the foot pedal sat at a completely different angle, fine for me but I could see it wasn't going to work for the much shorter previous owners. They had it setup for comfort for their feet and as such the only angle for the rod was an improper one.

if you want universial rearsets there are plenty of sport bikes you can snag bolt through style controls off of for half the price. Frz600s come to mind as I used to have one and that's what I look for when I surf eBay. I have also used very early triumph T595 controls as well but those are really hard to find.

The he reason I like the tarozzi kit for the cb750k is the mount for the pegs is hella strong, it requires no cutting, it puts the peg in an ideal location (in the middle of the passenger peg support), and the pull tab and lever are adjustable so you can set the linkage up without binding. If you look at the older cb750 specific rearsets like dunstall or John tickle they use the same mounting location.
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Good knowledge Geeto... my friends problem was probable related to his height & binding then. I'll discuss it with him today. ...me? 5'10" :cool:

I'll be moving on to the technical forums for more advise on this topic rather than stringing it out here.

Keep the wheels rollin!
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