Hailing from the MidWest

I just read it as a dude trying to poach pipes. And Mark, those are HM341s not the earlier HM300s so I doubt $1K is the order of the day. Don't get me wrong - they are still expensive and hard to find but still....

here is my old 1975 SOHC:




Here is what I recommend:
- Keep the stock pipes.
- Put a K&N stock filter replacement in the airbox. Forget any "pods", this works the best.
- Good Tires, I prefer Metzler Lasertecs but Avon Roadriders are also great.
- Do the dual disc conversion, or better yet a 1975-1977 GL1000 front end swap
- Alloy rims. If you do the GL1000 swap the front wheel will be a 19" alloy. Ideally you want 18" front and rear though.
- Superbike bars, you'll need the leverage
- new steering head bearings. For some reason cb750s chew these up
- Classic Cycle City Guilari replica seat
- fiberglass replacement rear fender. Nice clean originals are hard to come by because everyone seems to bash them and they rust. Also the whole rear fender and stock taillight weigh way too much.
- Calfab swingarm now that they are back in production again.
- Decent shocks. Hagon for budget, Ohlins or works for bling.
- If you feel like you need rearsets raaks and Tarozzi both make setups. I would go with tarozzi as the raask are high and tight racer crouch, tarozzi are better for performance street riding. With a superbike bar however I doubt you will need them.
- metal flake or candy paint. Flat anything is for losers - 70's is all about sparkle.

That ought to sort you out. Figure you'll spend about $2K-$3K all said and done.

What didn't pan out with tarozi rear sets? Did he buy universal or an actual kit to fit his bike?

Here red is why I don't like the loaded gun custom ones:
- they are universal. This means you need to figure out how to mount them and that usually means fabrication or sticking them in the passenger peg slot. Unless you are 6'5" like me the passenger peg mount will be too far back. It also means you have to fab the linkages which is an invatation to screw something up if you are not used to working with linkages...which brings me to my second point....

- the peg to pull tab is not adjustable. One of the biggest issues that plague custom controls, be it rear sets or forward controls, is the linkage geometry. Improper setup means binding, improper travel, sometimes decreased braking force applied, etc...most of it caused by having the linkage at an incorrect angle to the force being applied or an improperly bent rod to clear something. When I bought my ironhead sporty it had these junky forward controls on it that didn't work. Two previous owners couldn't figure it out. I looked at it and saw the pull tab angle was past center and the lever wasn't putting enough travel into the system. When I moved it the foot pedal sat at a completely different angle, fine for me but I could see it wasn't going to work for the much shorter previous owners. They had it setup for comfort for their feet and as such the only angle for the rod was an improper one.

if you want universial rearsets there are plenty of sport bikes you can snag bolt through style controls off of for half the price. Frz600s come to mind as I used to have one and that's what I look for when I surf eBay. I have also used very early triumph T595 controls as well but those are really hard to find.

The he reason I like the tarozzi kit for the cb750k is the mount for the pegs is hella strong, it requires no cutting, it puts the peg in an ideal location (in the middle of the passenger peg support), and the pull tab and lever are adjustable so you can set the linkage up without binding. If you look at the older cb750 specific rearsets like dunstall or John tickle they use the same mounting location.