Do you mean the pictures in the last post are bad quality, or are you talking about the previous ones that got blurred out and watermarked by photobucket, because of their recently imposed user data storage limits?
Because if its the latter then there is no need for snotty remarks about my usage of a camera like that. They were all fine until recently and then photobucket screwed them up.
Hi all,
Since the last post i noticed I had a small oil leak from around the valve cover and from around the tacho cable opening in the valve cover.
I sealed it with some silicone gasket maker and enjoyed the bike all I could before winter kicked in over here.
After a few short trips the bike is running great, however there is a new small issue:
I am having a hard time hot starting the bike.
When the bike is cold, it starts right away without any problem, but when everything is up to operating temperature (e.g. after a 30-45min ride) it has a hard time starting.
For example the last time I took it out on the road i stalled it in traffic. I tried to start it again right away, but it would not fire.
It turns over on the starter but it sounds like the battery is low, and dies completely after a few turns.The battery is not weak at all, its in great condition.
The interesting part is that if I wait about 10 mins for it to cool down a bit, it starts right away again like nothing happened. Every time.
Needless to say it is a major annoyance.
In summary if it runs, it runs great, but the second you turn it off, you have to wait a while before starting it again.
It looks to me that the starter could be faulty, not strong enough to turn the engine over when everything heats up and gets tighter.
This lines up with the sound it makes when you attempt to start it again.
I also was suggested changing the ignition coils, i was told that when they run they heat up and if kept in use they keep going, but when stopped and still hot, they would make a weak spark when worked again. This could be an option but doesn't exactly like up with the engine cranking over with difficulty.
It it was the coils it would turn over normally just not start because of the weak spark.
What are your suggestions guys?
Maybe its just the nature of this motorcycle?
Hi all,
... I am having a hard time hot starting the bike.
When the bike is cold, it starts right away without any problem, but when everything is up to operating temperature (e.g. after a 30-45min ride) it has a hard time starting.
...
The valve clearances have been checked some time before and everything was perfectly within spec.
As to the engine running tighter when hot... well i would expect it to run a little tighter since things expand when heated up. Compression increases and so on.
If it was running tight when it warms up overall, it would let know of it during use, not just when starting up. Am i correct in saying this?
The thing is that when it runs, it runs perfectly (in my opinion), and will keep doing so when kept running. The problem is temporary and arises only right after its turned off following some use.
I'm leaning towards the starter, or at least I think it is something electrical.
Starter or something that heats up when in use, remains working even when hot if it isn't stopped, but fails when its started hot ...and works again when cools down a bit.
I'm really concerned one or more of your pistons and or something in your valve train is running too tight.
If it's one of those things it would be best to start taking things apart to inspect what's going on inside there,
instead of waiting for the whatever it is to seize while next season riding.
A fresh compression test might be the cheapest place to start.
woodsman was trying to help you rule out the starter as being an issue, if she bump starts easy that would suggest a starter problem,
if it's what I think it could be, your rear wheel will lock up and skid.
Hello after a while. I was enjoying the bike and taking it for long and short rides to finally enjoy it, see what's what, and what still needs work.
Hot Start Issue
First of all I did solve the hot start issue I had. I bought a starter repair kit, I took it out, cleaned everything, put in new brushes, brush springs, o-rings, seal, cleaned the commutator and lubed everything up a little. It didn't look bad to begin with. I also did the winding continuity tests with the multimeter to determine if there were shorts in the windings. Everything was in order.
When I put it back together the sound of the engine being started was different, a different pitch. I took it for a few rides and got it nice an warm every time. Each time when I came back i shut off the engine and then started it up again. Sometimes it would start again no problem and sometimes the issue would happen again (slow cranking as if the starter was struggling).
One time, the engine would not even crank over slowly, I thought the starter gave up completely. That's when I connected up a brand new battery and she fired right up. The starter was not an issue it was a bad battery that would not hold a solid charge apparently.
Clutch
I also noticed that the clutch is slipping. Sometimes i would drop a gear and twist the throttle and the revs would go up but I would not go anywhere.
Maybe the friction plates are worn or maybe the previous owner used a wrong kind of engine oil at some point. Either way i would like to replace the whole set for my own peace of mind. (friction plates, steel plates and springs)
I need some help here when it comes to selecting the parts. I need 8 friction plates (7xA and 1xB) and 7 steel plates (6xA and 1xB)
Does it matter if i buy the 2 sets of plates from 2 different brands? Its important the original stack height is kept and using the same brand would ensure it.
The brand EBC is popular where I am, but they only do the friction plates
This other brand Gecko does both sets of plates but i never heard about them.
I was thinking of geting Gecko steels and EBC friction plates.
Also another option is Barnett. They have a kit with both set of plates and its kevlar lined. The thing is the kit includes 8 of both types of plates. What's up with that? Shouldn't at least the number of steel plates be 1 less than friction plates?
79-83 Honda CB750 Barnett Friction and Steel Clutch Plates kit - Kev. | eBay Motors, Parts & Accessories, Motorcycle Parts | eBay!
www.ebay.ie
Chain
My chain also badly needs replacing so that's next on the list. I have it at the right tension but i can see that its just stretched so much that it doesn't align with the sprocket teeth well and its making some rattling noises when I ride. Ill get a new set of sprockets too. I'll also need to get a chain breaking and riveting tool while I'm at it.
Rear Shocks
My rear shocks are in a really bad state, hissing like i shower earlier and rusted everywhere. I'll try to get a set of nice black ones. Maybe I'll go for some cheaper (maybe Chinese). I think even those will be better than the current ones.
Tank Heatshield
I was quite surprised to find out I boiled my fuel the last time i came back from a ride. I was just standing there and heard bubbling noises. I thought its the oil or something but it was not overheating (is it even possible to boil engine oil?). I then put my ear next to the tank and there it was. Is that a normal thing? Is is dangerous when the tanks vent works fine? I will get some heat shield gold foil or whatever it is and stick it under the tank.
Hey how's it going, riding is good here, hope it is good there too,
personally I would take the clutch apart, clean it all up, put it back in with nice regular dino oil and try it again.
you don't need to replace your steels :| corks maybe. They always alternate steel, cork, steel, cork, etc.
New chain is good idea.
No they won't, buy better shocks.
No, only fuel injection bikes are prone to boil the fuel, yours should not.
Riding is awesome, i was waiting for it for a really long time. And we even got some good weather here in Ireland finally.
I'm aware that the steel plates go between the friction plates, meaning that the number of steel plates should always be one less than the number of friction plates.
That's why the Barnett kevlar clutch kit has me puzzled, 8 of each type of plate. Makes me question the compatibility if i ever was to go with that kit.
I was looking at reproduction shocks that are quite cheap from US sites like www.partsnmore.com. They are no-brand shocks as well. Nearly sure they could be Chinese too.
Then I found a decent looking set of fully adjustable (preload and damping) shocks from china. Not RFY just to be clear.
I don't need Ohlins quality shocks, this bike will not be going on the track nor ridden hard on the street. Just better what's current, which is on its last legs, it,'s so bad.
Would you recommend a decent suspension brand that's not going to break the bank?
Could you elaborate a little why injected bikes could boil fuel but this one, and old, air cooled engine and so on, should not?
Hagon is in the UK, they make pretty good shocks for the money 150- 200 BPS. Might see if you can find used, quality and rebuild. There have to be some nice old Honda race parts sitting on shelves in shops across Ireland.
On a fuel injected bike the fuel travels through the pump which uses the fuel for cooling, then the fuel that does not go through the stinking hot fuel rails and injectors, that heated fuel returns to the fuel tank to do it all again. Is best to keep lots of fuel in your Fi tank. Fuel is a one way gravity trip on your carburetor bike.
Nice rear shocks are a good investment. Keep them for the next bike and put the stock ones on when you sell it
I have a secret weapon, I have a huge motorcycle scrap yard near me and the owner just started riding and selling trials bikes.
Hello,
I just bought a 1980 Honda 400c CM, I am turning into a café racer, Ive always wanted a café racer. This is my first project like this. I would greatly appreciate some guidance on where to buy parts,etc any advise helps.
What's going on, guys? Glad I found this forum and I can't wait to dive in and get involved.
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