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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, still trying to get my bike to run well...

Going to check the valve clearances when I came across this resting nicely by the valves:





I don't know what it is! It's plastic/rubber and I can't see anything that looks visibly chewed up - all the cam chain rollers that I can see are intact, but I can't see the roller that's further down in the head. ??

Now to the meat of this post. According to my Clymer manual (don't have a shop manual yet *slap wrist*) I'm supposed to align the alternator rotor at the LT mark and in doing so the camshaft index is supposed to be spot on with the marks on the head. Well, it's off by the amount in the following photos:

Alternator lined up


Ensuing camshaft alignment
Exhaust


Intake


With exhaust camshaft lined up with mark on cylinder head:


Alternator alignment


Ensuing intake camshaft alignment


So it's pretty much ham-fisted right? I can't see a way to modify the position of the camshafts without taking the head off - or can I disconnect the cam chain and move both cams seperately with the head on? The left bank has been working well and the bike had decent power with this set-up, but it has been fouling the right cylinder's plugs regularly (see my other posts), even with the installation of a new coil...

Any help would be greatly appreciated. TIA
 

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OK I can't see the timing marks on the cam. Your pictures show the marks on the cam bearings, but where are the cam marks? It's not a big deal if they are off a few degrees - that just indicates that the timing chain is worn. Can you still set the ignition timing? I find that when the cam chain gets loose on one of these there is not enough adjustment range to set the points plate where it needs to be.

Why are you worried about this? Does the engine run? Are you replacing the timing chain? If the engine runs and you are not replacing the timing chain, just set the tension, set the clearance and forget about it.

Your second problem, those pieces of plastic are rubber rings that fill in the sides of the camshaft sprockets. They get hard over the years and break. They are still available for Honda but you must break the cam chain and remove the cams to replace them. Their only purpose is noise suppression, so throw them away and don't worry about it.
 

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I re-read your post and i think I understand the issue. You're talking in terms of the cams being in the right place *for valve adjustment*, not for setting the timing. Again, don't worry about it. Set the valve clearance by rotating the engine until the heel of any cam lobe is on its follower. Check the clearance and move to the next one. FYI since .001 feeler gauges are hard to find I usually use a .002 and set it extra tight on the gauge. That's a little looser than Honda recommends but seems to work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You're right, I'm just setting the clearances on the valves.

I assumed that the holes on the cam lobes were the timing marks - is that not the case? If not, where are the timing marks on the cam?

I'm trying to reduce the number of variables (adjusting valves, new coil, timing, etc.) in my search to find out what's causing the right side cylinder to foul after 20 minutes of riding. So far I've had no luck...
 

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quote:Originally posted by ejand22

You're right, I'm just setting the clearances on the valves.

I assumed that the holes on the cam lobes were the timing marks - is that not the case? If not, where are the timing marks on the cam?
No, those are not the timing marks. Those are oil holes. The timing marks are little chisel/triangle punch marks on the cast shaft part of the cam (not the lobe). Sometimes (usually) they are hard to see. Use a bright flashlight.

quote:
I'm trying to reduce the number of variables (adjusting valves, new coil, timing, etc.) in my search to find out what's causing the right side cylinder to foul after 20 minutes of riding. So far I've had no luck...
I can almost guarantee that it is not a valve clearance issue but it doesn't hurt. Check the carbs and make absolutely sure that the floats are working correctly. These have brass floats and often leak. Do you get fuel leaks?

Check the advance mechanism too... they often stick.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Found the timing marks - they're very hard to see! I knew this wasn't the 'cause' of the problem, but I just wanted to make sure that it was set correctly, and it is.

The problem search is still on, thanks for the hint on the advance mechanism. Carbs 'should' be set correctly as they were gone through before, but I'll doulbe check.

Thanks guys!
 
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