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I bought a seal plate complete set up from Hoyt McKagen. But unfortunatly he is no longer living.

The plate should be fairly simple to make. Just a flat aluminum plate that is the same outline as the stator cover. On this plate is a round piece of aluminum thick enough to hold a seal. This was screwed to the plate. The seal goes in this. I had to remove a little on the back of the pvl rotor to clear the seal holder but it hasn't affected anything in a couple of years.

I think JohnnyB has made them, or something similar, for the 175 motor. He mave have pictures that show it better than I can explain. I don't have access to mine to get a picture for you.

Craig
 

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Bill,
Go here: D:\NewSite\HondaRacer\mainpage.htm

Look in the 175 racer section, then the engine section, then ignition.

These photos show the plate but not the seal carrier...which fits inside the large hole. It has a "step" in the back to locate it in the hole, then a recess in the front to accept the seal. It is attached by three or four countersunk socket head screws that enter from the back side of the plate and into the back side of the seal carrier. I put a small amount of sealant around the back of the carrier, place it in the hole and screw it down from the back.

The plate is about 3mm thick 6061, the carrier about 3/8" thick. I sourced out a proper seal for the crank before I designed the carrier. I had emachineshop do the parts in batches of ten. I scanned a side cover gasket and traced it in a CAD program to create the necessary drawings for the plate.
Works great, both Mary and I have been using them for close to two years now. Will typically leak a couple of drops during a race that is contained by the engine cover. Which is fine by me as it keeps the seal lubricated. And by a couple of drops....I mean just a couple of drops.
JohnnyB
 

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quote:
Bill,
Go here: D:\NewSite\HondaRacer\mainpage.htm

Look in the 175 racer section, then the engine section, then ignition.

These photos show the plate but not the seal carrier...which fits inside the large hole. It has a "step" in the back to locate it in the hole, then a recess in the front to accept the seal. It is attached by three or four countersunk socket head screws that enter from the back side of the plate and into the back side of the seal carrier. I put a small amount of sealant around the back of the carrier, place it in the hole and screw it down from the back.

The plate is about 3mm thick 6061, the carrier about 3/8" thick. I sourced out a proper seal for the crank before I designed the carrier. I had emachineshop do the parts in batches of ten. I scanned a side cover gasket and traced it in a CAD program to create the necessary drawings for the plate.
Works great, both Mary and I have been using them for close to two years now. Will typically leak a couple of drops during a race that is contained by the engine cover. Which is fine by me as it keeps the seal lubricated. And by a couple of drops....I mean just a couple of drops.
JohnnyB
http://www.jrbranson.com/hondaracer/mainpage.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the information guys. I was told that sealing it off would make it last much longer. One less thing to leak in a crash as well.
Matt- this is mainly to try to beat you in FCB!
bfd
 

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i asked pete t the same question back when he set mine up for me last year. he said it will be fine running it in an oil bath. although i do like the idea of keeping oil out of that case for crashes...

don't worry. this year my clutch, brakes and handling will be up to snuff. watch out bfd... this season you are going down. thst is of course unless you purchase a sidecar in which case i will have to be nice to ya and let ya pass me in a couple of corners. ha ha

mt
 

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The are a few reasons I run mine in air. One it allows easy adjustment since there is no gasket or oil in the outer section, two, it allows for very easy, non messy way to check timing, three it keeps it cool because I can run a vented cover, four, it doesn't try to blow oil out there wiring exit.

If the 350's are anything like the 175's there isn't a lot of oil in that area anyway...most of it gets blown in by crankcase pulses. The PVL's seem pretty tough. A fully modified and hard run 175 probably gets quite a bit hotter than a 350...so I'd hesistate to run one on a 175 in oil. I bet the oil in my 175 runs close to 350 degrees...probably not great for a PVL stator coil. I know at tracks like Mosport Mobile 1 will come out burnt, only ester based synthetics seem to withstand the heat.
JohnnyB
 
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