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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys! 2 days being a member and I already have an issue. As mentioned in the title, the bike is a Honda CL360 Scrambler.

First off, I'll start with the known cause of the issue. The past month I caught my fuel lines leaking gas all over the floor of my garage. (That was a fun cleanup...) Anyway, I figured they may just be old and stretched, so I bought a new pair. I just replaced them with new lines an hour ago, and beforehand had to empty the fuel tank. Once the new lines were in place, and with new fuel in the tank, I started her up and let her idle a bit. Upon idling, I immediately heard a loud clicking to the left side of the engine. With few minor revs on the throttle, the clicking sped up with the engine.

Other than the leaking lines, the bike ran just fine before the line exchange. Any ideas on the issue? I checked the oil levels, and they hit the second mark of the dip stick, so I don't believe low oil levels are to blame. (Oil appeared clean as well.) Is it simply that the bike needs to run a while to recirculate fuel and oil? I don't dare drive it anywhere as I don't want to cause any major damage.


Thanks for the assistance. I'll be searching around tutorials and such as well in the meantime.
 

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Hey guys! 2 days being a member and I already have an issue. As mentioned in the title, the bike is a Honda CL360 Scrambler.

First off, I'll start with the known cause of the issue. The past month I caught my fuel lines leaking gas all over the floor of my garage. (That was a fun cleanup...) Anyway, I figured they may just be old and stretched, so I bought a new pair. I just replaced them with new lines an hour ago, and beforehand had to empty the fuel tank. Once the new lines were in place, and with new fuel in the tank, I started her up and let her idle a bit. Upon idling, I immediately heard a loud clicking to the left side of the engine. With few minor revs on the throttle, the clicking sped up with the engine.

Other than the leaking lines, the bike ran just fine before the line exchange. Any ideas on the issue? I checked the oil levels, and they hit the second mark of the dip stick, so I don't believe low oil levels are to blame. (Oil appeared clean as well.) Is it simply that the bike needs to run a while to recirculate fuel and oil? I don't dare drive it anywhere as I don't want to cause any major damage.

Thanks for the assistance. I'll be searching around tutorials and such as well in the meantime.
...Did you put a new fuel filter in? Probably pulled some crud from your tank into your engine and you might have blown your top end.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
...Did you put a new fuel filter in? Probably pulled some crud from your tank into your engine and you might have blown your top end.
I'll shamefully admit that I don't know where the fuel filter would be if it had one. I've heard that some petcocks have them built in, but I don't believe that's the case for mine, and there isn't any aftermarket filters installed externally on the fuel lines. So unless there's one in the tank itself, that could be the issue.
 

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No way you ruined your top end with anything small enough to get sucked thru the jet. Is it running on both cylinders? It possible its just not running on both sides, or its way out of sync and making noise. Cam chain noise? exhaust leak? Could you have just knocked the wire to one coil loose? Really we don't have enough info to even guess.

I'm more curious as to why you have to drain the tank to change the fuel lines. You know the petcock (that switch thing above the exhaust pipes) has an off position right?
 

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Take off your oil filler cap and smell inside - if it smells like gas you have gas in your oil. You need to change this (also check the oil level - if it is overfull that is another clue to having gas in the oil).

The ticking may be from the thinned out oil making the tappets rattle a bit. Hopefully if this is the case fresh oil will fix it without any damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No way you ruined your top end with anything small enough to get sucked thru the jet. Is it running on both cylinders? It possible its just not running on both sides, or its way out of sync and making noise. Cam chain noise? exhaust leak? Could you have just knocked the wire to one coil loose? Really we don't have enough info to even guess.

I'm more curious as to why you have to drain the tank to change the fuel lines. You know the petcock (that switch thing above the exhaust pipes) has an off position right?
I had to swap all 3 fuel lines, including the equalizing line that passes from one side of the tank to the other. Even with the petcock in the off position (which it was), that line will leak fuel regardless, as there's no shut offs between the tank and that line. Only the 2 long spouts on each side of the tank.

As for noise location, I'm very certain it's coming from the left side, near the top of the engine. I can do some contact listening to see if I can better pinpoint the noise tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure the noise isn't from the chain. It seems most likely that it's an oil/gas mixing issue. Might have to do an oil change and check my filters as suggested.

- - - Updated - - -

Take off your oil filler cap and smell inside - if it smells like gas you have gas in your oil. You need to change this (also check the oil level - if it is overfull that is another clue to having gas in the oil).

The ticking may be from the thinned out oil making the tappets rattle a bit. Hopefully if this is the case fresh oil will fix it without any damage.
Thanks for the tip, I'll definitely look closer at the oil and filters tomorrow.
 

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Broken spark plug? Sometimes if they are broken it can jump around and make loud clicking noises. As RPM goes up the clicking does as well with a broken spark plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Broken spark plug? Sometimes if they are broken it can jump around and make loud clicking noises. As RPM goes up the clicking does as well with a broken spark plug.
Hm... that'd be around the right location too. I'll have to put those on my check list.
 

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Valve adjuster came loose? Open the rocker inspection covers and see if one of the nuts has backed out.

Unfortunately it was common for these bikes to roach the top end if left idling on the kickstand too long. If you ever need to warm the bike up on the kick stand for more than a minute or two, it is best to put a block under the stand to allow proper oiling to the top end. Or if you still have a centerstand, use that instead. I doubt that is the cause, but I felt it necessary to mention.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ah, I forgot about the crossover tube. As I asked before, is it running on both cylinders?
I do hear cycling on both sides of the engine, and there's never been a lack of power in the bike, so I'd say yes.

- - - Updated - - -

Did you put bike in gear on back to neutral? Maybe this is too obvious but gear mechanism can end up in an inbetween state. Naturally the location isn't the head though.
Said minor reving was in nuetral, but I've since driven it briefly around the neighborhood in first and second as well, and the clicking persists.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Valve adjuster came loose? Open the rocker inspection covers and see if one of the nuts has backed out.

Unfortunately it was common for these bikes to roach the top end if left idling on the kickstand too long. If you ever need to warm the bike up on the kick stand for more than a minute or two, it is best to put a block under the stand to allow proper oiling to the top end. Or if you still have a centerstand, use that instead. I doubt that is the cause, but I felt it necessary to mention.
I do indead still have a center stand! :cool: Super convenient for oil changes. But I'll definitely open up the rocker and have a look at the adjuster. (Currently my worry is that the valves do really need adjustment. And I have to say that after watching a few lengthy tut videos... it's a tad over my head.)
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
As an update to everyone in the thread:
Yesterday I went through the process of draining the oil and swapped it for new synthetic. (As a previous commenter mentioned, I believe gas may have flooded and mixed with the oil. So thought that might be the culprit.)

It did seem to halt the clicking for a few minutes idling, but no dice. Clicking came back as before. Though on a fun note, after checking the electrical I noticed that previous owner sold me the bike without the throttle return cable... ridiculous. So I'll be needing to learn the process required for getting a new cable in the housing, which I'm sure will require me to drain the tank (again... sigh) and remove the tank to reach the area over my carbs.

Thanks for the help though all, it's much appreciated.

----------Edited----------

Removed the cover to the valve adjustment but didn't find anything loose. Things looked a tad dirty, and connections might need a little TLC though.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You screwed open one of the adjustmen caps? Or both on the left side?

Start taking pictures.

For fuel hose you could consider one of these:
Search Results - Touratech-USA

I think 30$ is bur crazy but I think you can find them cheaper too.
Left side. Here's a shot. I didn't see any covers on the right side... Thought the only adjustment was on the upper left side and the cams underneath on the same side. photo (2).JPG
 

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You are looking at the points housing in the pic. The adjustment and inspection caps are the 4 large "bolt" looking covers on top of the motor. You really need to have a workshop manual to properly work on the bike.

In this link you should find everything you need. Manuals and Technical Documents
 

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CB360 uses conventional screw and nut adjustment AFAIK, not eccentric spindles like the 350 twin.

Check valve clearances NOW and if you do not have a manual get one NOW. Why am I yelling? Because if it's too much clearance it is causing damage to cams, rockers and valves and if it's not the valve clearances, it is probably a damaged cam tower and runni8ng it like that will ruin the cam and cam end caps (towers).

Grab a Factory Service Manual off line or buy a copy of a Haynes/clymer/Chilton book and read it over and come back with questions if it doesn't make any sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You are looking at the points housing in the pic. The adjustment and inspection caps are the 4 large "bolt" looking covers on top of the motor. You really need to have a workshop manual to properly work on the bike.

In this link you should find everything you need. Manuals and Technical Documents
Ah, I know the areas you are mentioning now. Recall having to bend the gauges to fit down into them. May have to check them out when I go to put in the new throttle cable. Fairly sure I may have to remove the tank, and I'll have to do it at that time anyway.

As far as the manual goes, I've had it since I bought the motorcycle. It's just that for us non-mechanically-inclined folk, it's a tad heavy on the terminology. So I'm having a hard time understanding much of what it says. Most I've ever really done on my own vehicles is change the oil and filters. But as I know you are around the area, if you are open to teaching and have the spare time, I'd love to have a guiding hand in getting hands on with the valve adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
CB360 uses conventional screw and nut adjustment AFAIK, not eccentric spindles like the 350 twin.

Check valve clearances NOW and if you do not have a manual get one NOW. Why am I yelling? Because if it's too much clearance it is causing damage to cams, rockers and valves and if it's not the valve clearances, it is probably a damaged cam tower and runni8ng it like that will ruin the cam and cam end caps (towers).

Grab a Factory Service Manual off line or buy a copy of a Haynes/clymer/Chilton book and read it over and come back with questions if it doesn't make any sense.
Got a manual. As mentioned above, it might as well be in another language. (Also as a creative individual, there aren't many images to guide the user. Following directions only in text are about as helpful as me not providing you guys photos of the bike as I'm working on it. So I get where you are all coming from.)

To put it simply, I'm afraid I'll damage something just by attempting to do the valve adjustments myself. If I had a mechanic there with me with the experience to slap my hand before I butcher the engine, then I'd be more enthused to open her up. If all else fails, I may just have to suck it up and pay the mechanic fee. But I hear valve adjustments can be hit or miss, and quite pricey.
 
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