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you just want the drum?? i can probably measure something up for you this weekend. i dont have the stuff at hand, but i can get those dims to you. and you'll have to let me know if you want bearings?? or speedo hardware and the like. im guessing youre just looking for info on rotating mass for a race bike.

jc
 

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I've got a 305 superhawk DLS front, and a CB160 DLS front I can weigh....yeah I know that's not what you asked for.

I can tell you the Suzuki t-500 brake on my bike only weighs 8 lbs.

I think the brake to have on these bikes is a Superhawk, or Honda 450 (black bomber) for folks over 150 lbs, CB160 is enough if you are under 150 lbs. Mary's got a CB160 with Vesrah pads and the thing stops great, even with me on it. Probably wouldn't hold up on a technical track with a heavier more aggressive rider though.

I've got the superhawk brake waiting for the day when the t-500 cracks.
JohnnyB
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I agree with you for stopping power, but if you can have more stopping power and save weight, what would you take? The weight of most these drums is in the lining. The small drums have wider brake pad surface, more lining. It's almost a full half inch wider. I'm waiting for my 450 drum to come back. If you can weigh a 305 drum that would be splendid.

Aaron
 

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quote:
I agree with you for stopping power, but if you can have more stopping power and save weight, what would you take? The weight of most these drums is in the lining. The small drums have wider brake pad surface, more lining. It's almost a full half inch wider.
On the beefalo drum on my cb450 project, I had a local machine
shop turn down the lining a little, and dropped the weight
significantly. Also had them drill three small holes per web
to lighten it even more. With an aluminum rim, they're very
nice. Reduction of rotating mass, and all that...

So, yes, having narrower lining further from the hub will give
you better braking power compared to wider and closer. And if they
weigh the same, the choice is obvious.

You can also cut up the backing plates and put screens over the
areas you cut out. I'll have to scan some pictures that I took in Daytona...

Rob
 

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quote: So, yes, having narrower lining further from the hub will give
you better braking power compared to wider and closer. And if they
weigh the same, the choice is obvious.
Very important point there. Diameter of the drum is everything. Bigger around and narrow is usually always better, even if swept area is less on the larger diameter. I guess if there is a downside it's that even with a lighter drum a larger diameter moves the weight farther out on the wheel which gives more rotational momentum. I don't know the details but the leverage setup of the mechanism is supposed to mean a lot. I guess that's why the 450 and 160 work so well, something about how the linkage and cams are setup..... and I don't think it's as simple as more is better. Also a big deal is that the pivot side of the shoes on the 160, 305 and 450 wrap completely around the pin like a hinge, whereas the CB350, CB175 etc just have a half round that engages the pin.

I was never one to agree with the "brakes just slow you down" philosophy. At some point you always have to use brakes somewhere, the better the brake...the less time you spend slowing down and the more time you can spend going fast. I've always wanted a vintage bike that would lift the rear wheel. I'm not sure why as that would probably just make me crash...but I'd look cool just before I did.
JohnnyB
 

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comments.

ok, first, the 500t brake came from the factory precracked. the quicker you can stop, the further you can go before slowing down. then the faster you can be back on the gas. olmstead used to lift the rear wheel of his 360 on a regular basis. 550 front end disk combo. ive been dying to get an even better brake for the 350. the stock brake i had could get overworked pretty easily on the 350. mike cooked the crap out of it and i didnt have much luck with it. but i d know more now than i did then. so that could also be part of it. if you send your entire kit out to vintager brake, and just shell out the $$$, you'll have an excellent brake. and another thing, sometime, measure the size of the cable, and check out the way the casing is made. wehn you pull on the brake lever, the casing just squishes. ive found a guy in town here who makes them out of some kind of special uber material that doesnt flex as much. anyway, id love to be able to lift the rear wheel, but i just dont think the bikes are that linear with drum brakes. they just dont get going fast enough, and arent able to slow down quick enough. it might also be an issue of suspension not to mention geometry. but i have seen mike do it alot. said there was a guy in canada who said he was getting the rear wheel off the ground about 6" so you can equate that to probably 4" still pretty cool.

jc
 

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I think the t-500 cracking stories are kind of overblown, I've had mine on for three years now without a problem and it was horribly corroded when I got it. Vintage brake set it up and didn't find any problems. Course I have my theory as to why they crack and how to stop it so mine may last forever.

I've also got an anti-gravity theory.

JohnnyB
 

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Has anyone managed to cobble a cooling scoop onto the back plate of the 450? I've ventilated the drum between the webs for air exit, but prefer to have a scoop (rather than just holes + screen) for entry, but can't find a clean place that doesn't obstruct the linkage.
 
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