[JayPoorJay]

I've posted more of an INTRO thread here... I am SUPER grateful for all of the attention, support, warnings and encouragement >>>> forward then! Thank you and deep bow.

So, I've checked the timing - don't know how many here are GW riders/mechs BUT I got a couple different results and I'm hoping folks will help me out and get me on the right track... Between T and 1. If you look at the photos the Cam gears are not spot spot on,,,, which leaves me to guess that I am in the right neighborhood. (If you all tell me thats what I need to do) I will spin the engine again in the next days and get the markings on CAM gears to line up EXACT (take better pictures) and re-visit you good people. The photos are TOUGH because its hard to know if the angle is adequate for right viewing. Anyways - this is what i got

https://imgur.com/KzvvRXw
https://imgur.com/rFvIXuS
https://imgur.com/jxpvZRi
https://imgur.com/1CJ0OUy
https://imgur.com/znoyKWp
https://imgur.com/0p2Lb9M

Note: I think I missed taking a picture or TWO that I was needing to take! I will go back (without getting dirty today) and take them! This is what I have for now. What say you?

I have also removed the Carbs. THings did not LOOK as bad as I thought but 2 of the small (slow) jets were completely clogged and ONE was literally hanging by 2-3 threads. It was soooo loose I could turn it out by hand. All that to say she was still running really rough after draining out and changing gas.

I haven't figured out the cooling problem and no fan when hot. Any straight forward tests and troubleshooting is welcomed.

I have my CLYMER manual - have the HAYNES coming. Looks good but doesn't give much on the cooling electrics - unless I missed something. I've noticed a book on Ebay that seems to deal specifically with electrics - around $50bucks - worth getting? IMPORTANT QUESTION --- WILL THERE BE A BIG DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE 87 AND 86 BOOK. I JUST NOTICED THIS ONE ON EBAY FOR $25!!! I WILL GET IT IF FOLKS SAY THAT THE DIFFERENCES ARE HUGE - hopefully someone here wont see it and snag it out from under me, lol

Again, many thanks - see ya on the flip side!

 

[Cyorg]

Hard to tell for sure on the timing marks in those photos, but as long as you have T1 lined up they look close. Did you adjust the belt tensioners? Are you just checking things or did you replace the belts?
As for the cooling, you can check the fan by hooking 12V up directly. Blue is positive. Black negative. You can also test the thermo fan switch, but the switch closes between 98 and 102C so you can't use water. you have to suspend the switch in a pan of oil and heat it. Don't let the switch touch the side of the pan. Below 93 to 97C no continuity 98 to 102C the switch should close. Don't set yourself on fire or deep-fry your junk. Get the rad cap tested. If you do pull the thermo switch, use thread sealant when you reinstall it and don't over tighten it. Remember you are threading it into cast aluminum.

As far as I know there aren't any significant differences between 86 87, but stand to be corrected. As for a book on wiring, if I was broke, I would just find what I need on the net.

 

[TrialsRider]

Is a 4 stroke engine so it passes TDC twice in each cycle, make sure you are timing and adjusting valves at the right TDC (the one where it fires after a compression stroke)

... are you planning to replace the rubber band?

 

[cheekyman]

fan and wiring can be checked by grounding the wire on thermoswitch with key ON. the switches fail often on older bikes. a manual switch is a practical fix.

 

[s10hornet]

with the cooling fan it's one of three things.
bad fuse
bad fan
bad thermo switch

never had a fuse or fan go bad on my wing. you can replace the thermo switch but it will cost you about $70.
my wing never overheats. the temp will rise if i'm in heavy stop and go traffic or a really busy intersection.
my fan quit coming on. thermo was bad . wired a switch to the harness. now when i see the temp going up i
just flip on the toggle. total cost - $5

alot of wing owners screw the pooch when changing timing belts. real easy to get the marks off and bend a valve.
when the motor is at top dead center for #1 cylinder you can remove the left belt and the cam gear will not move.
the marks should line up. if they don't you may already have a problem.
the right side can will rotate when the belt is removed and the motor is at top dead center for #1. it's not a problem you just
have to put a wrench on the can gear and rotate is counterclockwise to line up the marks while putting the belt on.
make sure you don't have slack on the top side of the belt
don't - i repeat - don't mess with the belt tensioners. you get them too tight and they'll chew the teeth off the belts.

 

[JayPoorJay]

Damn. All this info is more than amazing! Thank you. Apologies for the delay. I'm not getting alerts when messages come into the thread... I'll have to check settings..

At this point, only 3 weeks into this project, I had a situation where the temp went up high enough to get bubbles flowing into the reserve. I shut it down at that x2.... I have taken the fairing off the front end so I have no gauges (I was wondering if the fan control was interrupted removing the fairing and it's electrics)...? Now, thanks to all y'alls advice, I am suspecting the thermo switch. For now, I've removed the thermostat,,,, needs changing anyways, pulled and cleaned the rad, needed it anyways, and tested the fan to a 12v source and it ran strong. I WILL test it next with the switch leads to see that I am getting voltage there.

Basically I have been chasing a super rough idle from the beginning (other issues showed themselves) and sluggish throttle. When I turn the throttle it bogz down and will even sometimes die. If I can get it to, and the rpms reach a certain band, the roughness (and the smoke) clears up and she sounds semi sweet. I have the carb assembly off,,, have cleaned jets, bowls and what I can. I have removed the California stuff (need to know how to deal that off!). Two slow jets seemed completely clogged blowing thru them by mouth. I soaked them and now can get air to pass. One other was literally hanging by a thread or two - loose. I tightened that back up after cleaning of course. I will take any recommendations for replacement parts. Cost is a factor.

The timing... I just wanted to check it (for the idle problem) BUT,,, I might as well change the belt while I'm here but will need guidance. I didnt mess with the tensioners... I have been told you can only kinda get it "so close" T1 wise... And that what I have now is close... Someone offered some advice above for the changing the belt. So THANK YOU! I'll order one. Once I have the belt I will come back and beg for more help, lol. But for now I just wanted to make sure that iming was not the problem.

Anyone hear of Damineding Moto Parts? Are they something I could use, just for now, for replacement carb jets and bits? No laughing... again,,,, money IS an object... I can afford better but was just wondering... What say you?

Deep bow and thanks for the help! Really! Yall are great...

 

[Cyorg]

don't - i repeat - don't mess with the belt tensioners. you get them too tight and they'll chew the teeth off the belts.

Why? Backing off the tensioners makes it easier to replace the belts (OP there are two belts not one) and tension should be set for the new belts. What if the tensioners are not set correctly now? Once the belts are installed, you put a wrench on the cam pulley bolt and put counterclockwise pressure on the pulley. This puts the belt slack on the tensioner side. Loosen the tensioner bolts and the spring will provide the correct tension.... Just follow what is described in the factory service manual.

 

[Cyorg]

Jay... changing the belts can be a road laced with landmines or a simple straight forward task if approached properly. You need to find that section of a Honda factory service manual. You then need to read and reread if necessary until you understand it completely. Then you can ask the right questions if necessary. The valves can come into contact with the pistons if you don't follow the proper procedure and that can ruin your day. You need to check the tensioner rollers while you are in there.

 

[irk_miller]

Funny, but changing the belt was the first thing everyone consistently said to do first when I got my GL1000. Did things change that much?

 

[Cyorg]

Funny, but changing the belt was the first thing everyone consistently said to do first when I got my GL1000. Did things change that much?

Not really. Belt technology has improved since the 1000. You still have to factor in time as well as mileage. The thing that kills them the fastest is really cold starts, but by that time the GL is tucked away and you're driving the Civic.

In this case, I would have sorted the overheating before anything else, just in case it's a show stopper. Unlikely, but you never know... maybe that is why it was parked (at low mileage) in the first place.

 

[JayPoorJay]

Imma Change it.... It just seem like good practice. I will and can learn it.

And yes, I want to and will figure out the overheating - or not. In time.

Thanks folks.