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Discussion Starter · #201 ·
I do appreciate your concern, I’m confident these welds will hold together and do the job but I do maintain a pretty high level of paranoia once I’m on the road and will watch them closely. I did have to cut a couple of these apart to redo the shock mounts and one of the gussets so I did get to see Inside some of them.
 

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Catastrophic failure is not something you can normally watch for. Your round tubes where they intersect the square profile swingarm at the rear was cut altogether wrong and is 100% dependent on the gusset for a physical connection. That's a fail waiting to happen, round tube is not designed to be connected that way. You would have been better off pounding some tube flat and use the existing stud to bolt it together, bolts in this case would be stronger then welds.
 

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Makes little odds as most of the forces are on the axle and all you are really doing is stopping the calliper from rotating around the axle. On a trials bike it's just a stud in a slot, doesn't have or need a linkage because once the axle is tight the thing doesn't want to rotate anyway.

... if you were going to 'float' the rear brake and connect the linkage to the frame instead, that would be different again. Now you need a linkage and it even needs to pivot in places.
 

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Discussion Starter · #208 ·
Would be about 6 times stronger considering your rear brake stay is also stressing that connection.
Makes little odds as most of the forces are on the axle and all you are really doing is stopping the calliper from rotating around the axle.
so the brake stay is stressing the arm or isn’t? :p

this hanger is meant to slide into a little slot on the swingarm. I want it underneath because i don’t want to additional stress on the bracing (not really worried about it, just don’t want it there) and i like the look of it slung underneath more. Its going to work just fine where it is but I’d rather have it below.
 

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I don’t believe a floating rear brake is worth the effort.
and you would be right.

The brake transfers stress to the swingarm via rotational forces about the axle. The only difference is now you are pulling it from turning instead of pushing. Try rotating without the brake stay on and just the axle tight. It's not suppose to want to rotate if you have it together right, your brake mount is a solid spacer on the axle.

Adjustment of the axle for chain tension is what necessitates a brake stay arm or slot in the brake mount.
 

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By the way, if you want the welder to stop blowing holes through the tubing, then you flow shielding gas into the tube before you weld it :geek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #212 ·
I'm not sure just yet IF I like it, but the arm fits. Yay. This is a 2006 Shadow 750. I have a 2002 Shadow 750 here, too, and it fits that one better. Oh well. Still hurdles. I will have to make spacers to get it seated properly in the frame. I will also have to cut a small wedge out of the frame's backbone for clearance. And there's no way I can leave the exhaust this way...I can't go through the effort of putting a single side swignarm on this thing and then leave a muffler in front of it. The shock will still work but I will likely need to find a slightly less stiff spring.

The BIGGEST hurdle, though, is chain clearance. I got plenty underneath but not on top. With the other siwngarm I was able to lower it to get past this problem. Can't do that with this one. I'm going to have to get creative. An idler will probably have to be involved.

This is about 40lbs lighter, lol, and shortens the wheelbase about 3"...both of which I really like.







 

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The BIGGEST hurdle, though, is chain clearance. I got plenty underneath but not on top. With the other siwngarm I was able to lower it to get past this problem. Can't do that with this one. I'm going to have to get creative. An idler will probably have to be involved.
Maybe if you raise the pivot point/bracket for the top of the shock, that should bring the swingarm up and increase clearance of the chain on top of the swingarm....? Seems like you have plenty of tyre clearance to do that.

Tire Wheel Automotive fuel system Automotive tire Motor vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #214 ·
I have lots of clearance above the tire, but I will have to bring the frame below stock ride height to do it...this arm is fatter than the stock arm and the stock arm was practically level.

I'm going to running a slightly taller rear sprocket and I think between than and an idler it'll be okay. I was probably going to have to do something similar with the other swingarm as well...I was able to drop it so that I had clearance on top, but clearance on the bottom was going to be tight. It's one of those "this bike wasn't meant for this" hurdles lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #215 ·
Okay...after cutting the exhausts off and getting the geometry and shock sorted....it's definitely staying.
Chain clearance was still an issue, and I needed a taller sprocket on the back to get the gearing I want AND maybe help with the chain clearance issue. No one makes 520 sprockets for the VFR hub, though, so I had to improvise. Busted out some Blender and 3D builder and made a guide that let me cut out the center bore of a 44t steel R1 sprocket I had on hand:


This let me lay the R1 sprocket on the bottom with the VFR sprocket on top and then shimmy around the assembly to get them centered. Obviously a solid disk would have been better but my printer doesn't have enough bed space for it. Holes are just to save resin.


After getting it all centered and clamped down I used a razor to score the finish so I know where to cut.


All said it lined up really nice...more so than I honestly expected....I have .008" runout and I was honestly eyeballing the cuts lol. I couldn't do it again.


Aligning the swingarm ended up being simpler than expected. Crammed all the way against the right side of the frame aligns the sprockets and wheel...so lucky hit there. I did have to make a little spacer to cram into the right side for the bearings to ride with minimal clearance between the frame and swingarm. On the other side I was able to use the stock Shadow spacers...again just lucky. I did not end up having to notch the frame.


Shock mount is done. I'll round it off when I tear the bike back down for paint. The arm has slightly less leverage against the shock here than it did with the first swingarm, but not a great deal less. I think it'll be okay with less preload but I may end up having to get a lighter spring. That'll require sitting down with paper and pencil and doing math...or I might just play it out and see how it feels. Still a little bummed about losing the original layout, I put a lot of time and effort into sorting that thing out, but this is good too.


And again after trimming the exhaust off and seeing the new lines...I like it. A lot.




I want to find some simple can mufflers to go under the tail. Rear cylinder will hook around in front of the backbone and then up under the tail, the front cylinder will go straight back where I had the rear cylinder going before. I'm thinking of getting one of these cheap eBay dual mufflers...it's got a convenient mount already welde up and I can just cut the Y off the back and plumb it all together.

What I'd really like to find, though, is a couple cans like what came with the Devil true duals you use to find on RC51's and TL1000R's..
 

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Is that shock mount going to need gusseting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #218 ·
I don't think so...the backbone is pretty solid and the ears are 1/4" thick. But originally I was going to have webbing/gusseting going from the backbone to the seat rails. I think now I'll put a plate on top of the shock mount and that will serve as the base for some braces to the seat rails. I'll be pretty heavily supported whether it's needed or not.

And now I just need to find a couple of mufflers I like...



 

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Discussion Starter · #219 ·
Okay, so I really like those cone style mufflers and I was really partial to the look of them sticking out behind the seat...so I rigged them back up under the seat just to see what they'd look like. I may swap them out to some newer ones because I don't like the chrome at all, or I may just blast it off these things...or I might go with some traditional cans. We'll see. But I do like the look.

I also finally got around to making the spacers to fit the Yamaha mono-blocks to the Triumph forks.

Lastly, I had to roll everything outside so I could sweep up all the shavings and stuff, so I got some outside pics in the sun!











...bonus poodle...

 
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