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he is missing some steps in his photo-ography,you have the back of the tank(which ussually needs to be narrowed to look good.Then there is the matter of the area,the seat stop, or back of seat it needs a flat or "L" shaped closing panel to bind the hump to the seat.
You can pop rivit things together if you cant weld, riviting is structurally sound (check out airplane construction)I cant spell rivit a brain freeze,

Im so far behind ,that I think Im in first.
 

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Yeah, I was kind of wondering about the back being closed up too.
I have two bikes that have ripped, long stock seats that I want to replace in this manner. Luckily I have both extra tanks and an extra seat for one, so I have almost everything I need.

I'm hoping to take a welding class this spring or summer so I can finally do a lot more stuff myself and not farm out any more welding.
 

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you can always rivit it together and hide them down the middle by using counter sunk heads and filler, same thing with the closing panel just leave your self some material to bend as a lip to rivit to the hump along its front most edge which would be covered with seat material anyway.
I make my own bases as its just easier to get a lighter and frame fitting seat.

Im so far behind ,that I think Im in first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
oops...OK.. LOL.. I forgot a step..
To seal the hole, I used that dark grey stuff heavy duty interlock floor foam/padding that you could get at Home Depot and cut it the shape of the hole in back to use as a cover...kinda like a "cork top". then I used the same stuff and cut another cover about 5mm bigger than the first to act as a lid. I then glued them together using "goop". so the first piece fits in the hole, the second piece fits just outside the hole.

I haven't done the next part yet but I plan to stick velcro along the top of the opening and leather it closed that that I have access to inside the hump to store my jumper cables, etc..etc..

I"ll post some pics..I didnt weld a thing...



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