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Discussion Starter #1
Well I took delivery of my new-to-me 1982 CB900F yesterday. I dont think I have been this excited about a bike since I bought my first bike, a 1984 V45 Magna. It is a beautiful machine, well maintained and a lot of the little things I would have planned to do to it are already done. The seller gave me receipts from all the work done at Vicious Cycle in Portland in the last few years.

-Vance&Hines exhaust
-Rims from an 03(?) Kawasaki ZX9
-Michelin Pilot sport tires
-Fork Seals redone
-Carbs synced, tuned and jetted with DynoJet
-New Blinkers
-New Clutch
-Timing chain adjusted or replaced (cant read the carbon copy that well in some spots)
-New Brake pads and fluid changed.

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First ting I plan to do is make the speedo work, or at least try too.
 

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She's a beaut.

Fork brace it. Unless that fender is really beefy.
New chain and sprockets.

Wow, decent tires, too. 180/55 sounds wide.
edit- just read the zx9 rims. Score!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
She's a beaut.
Yes, I agree lol. And that V&H exhaust makes a hell of a noise going down the road.

My goal with this bike is to keep it Looking as original as possible, while making some aspects as modern as I can. I have gone back and forth on going back to original rims, but I think having the ZX9 rims powder coated will be a good idea (the shop took a rattle can to them and the Kawi green is showing through in a few small places) and seek out the best brakes I can fit on it. The biggest thing will be figuring out how to make the Speedo work again. Geeto suggested looking into getting a Kawi speedo if it will match up to the rims, I will look into that in order to try and keep a analog speedo. I would like to find a good LED headlight, I liked the lighting difference the one on my KZ440 made. I will update the rear shocks to something a little better. According to the Vicious Cycle receipts they put different handle bars on it, so I may look into some that give me better control (the original bars would have had a slightly higher rise judging by pictures I've seen online). However if going back to stock bars does not offer better control then I will stick with what it has now. I need to do an oil change and probably some new plugs and possibly an air filter. The tank has some of that anti rust coating in it so I am wondering if running some seafoam through it will cause an issue there? Also I am looking for suggestions on what oil I should use. My previous bikes were a little less "performance" than this, so I just used off the shelf bike oil. I know RP makes cycle oil, does anyone have experience with it? I use RP in my F-150 w/5.4 Triton and in my Mustang 5.0 before I sold it and love it for those big nasty Ford V-8's. But if there is a better cycle oil out there, I'm open to suggestions.
 

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That's a great bike. I loved every 900F I owned. Did you get the corbin seat with it?

So here are the little project things I would do if it were mine:

- CB1100F Lattice Sport Kit
s-l400.jpg

- 150 MPH Speedometer swap
Meters Gauges Honda CB750F CB 750F CB750 CB 750 CB-750 Supersport


- new rear shocks (preferrably Ohlins - look around for a group buy, the CB1100F forum was getting them for like $500-600 a set).



And here are the things I would watch out for on it:

- Starter clutch failure
- Stator failure
- coil failure
- Reg/Rect failure
- reset your timing chain tension every other oil change.


I use golden spectro semi-synthetic in all my old jap bikes. Has worked great so far - no complaints.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
He had a Corbin seat and the original. The Corbin looked amazing, but went for ergonomic comfort and opted for the stock seat, at 6'2" the Corbin was just a little uncomfortable on the hips. I will look into the Spectro oil.

How/where do I adjust the timing chain tension on this bike?
 

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Car oils especially the energy conserving ones may cause clutch slippage. Or may not.

Honest question. What is harder on the oil, a 40yo motorcycle with shared oil trans and clutch or a push rod V-8?

I will buy redline by the case when they go on sale for my more modern performance track bikes. I don't think it matters too much as long as you stay in the manufacturers recommended oil range.
 

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he didn't give you both seats? I would have held out for that. Used corbins for those bikes are like $150 min, $360+ for new ones.

Here is the service manual:
Service Manual

Timing chain adjustment is Section 3, page 40.
 

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Honest question. What is harder on the oil, a 40yo motorcycle with shared oil trans and clutch or a push rod V-8?
Honest Answer: An Aircooled engine is harder on the oil than a water cooled one. With oil, heat is the primary concern. In a water cooled v-8 for the most part you won't see an oil temp beyond 230 degrees at most unless your cooling system has failed. On an aircooled bike it's not uncommon to see 250-260 degrees temp. Even with an oil cooler my Ducati isn't considered warmed up until it's 230 degrees. At 275 oil starts to break down, and I've seen that on my duc and my cb750 in traffic.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
he didn't give you both seats? I would have held out for that. Used corbins for those bikes are like $150 min, $360+ for new ones.

Here is the service manual:
Service Manual

Timing chain adjustment is Section 3, page 40.

Thank you good sir
 

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Looks like it's well kept, congratulations on the new wheels. I think you should have beat him up for the Corbin, rearsets will change your posture and it may have worked then. What the hell, we can always spend your money on one after you get through Getto's parts list, LOL.
 

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Honest Answer: An Aircooled engine is harder on the oil than a water cooled one. With oil, heat is the primary concern. In a water cooled v-8 for the most part you won't see an oil temp beyond 230 degrees at most unless your cooling system has failed. On an aircooled bike it's not uncommon to see 250-260 degrees temp. Even with an oil cooler my Ducati isn't considered warmed up until it's 230 degrees. At 275 oil starts to break down, and I've seen that on my duc and my cb750 in traffic.
I run oil temp/press gauges on my xs850 engine for this very reason. Oil pressure and temp is a good way you can monitor the adequacy of your engine oil real time.
My oil temps run 220-240 at the track. Granted, it's not as bad as top speed runs, but I am WOT for probably 1/2 to 2/3 the lap on a low hp machine. I have spoken with redline oil representatives and they feel this is the sweet spot for any one of their oils and most synthetics. I dont think oil temp is a problem for a well running air cooled engine that is stock or even mildly modified.

My question is a real one, though, and i dont know the answer. Its not just temp but film strength of the oil. Particularly on a flat tappet pushrod engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Looks like it's well kept, congratulations on the new wheels. I think you should have beat him up for the Corbin, rearsets will change your posture and it may have worked then. What the hell, we can always spend your money on one after you get through Getto's parts list, LOL.
I may end up getting a corbin after I get around to buying the wife a bike.

I have never owned a bike with such a fat rear tire. Te really does feel different. Handles nice and smooth. I see why people like crotch rockets.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Looks like it's well kept, congratulations on the new wheels. I think you should have beat him up for the Corbin, rearsets will change your posture and it may have worked then. What the hell, we can always spend your money on one after you get through Getto's parts list, LOL.
My question is a real one, though, and i dont know the answer. Its not just temp but film strength of the oil. Particularly on a flat tappet pushrod engines.
In my 5.0 i ran Royal Purple XPR, which is supposed to be their Extreme performance oil. I did this because I drove that thing to its ragged edge on a daily basis. I noticed that the car ran smoother, and about 10 degrees cooler than when I was running Motorcraft oil. IMO synthetics are better because they tend to coat the parts better and can last longer, I still change every 3k though. I notice that RP runs out with more viscosity when I drain it for change than standard oil does. It also looks far less burned and tastes better too!
 

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No, that's the high end of the spectrum for a part that's fit for a show bike, not a rider. I bought my non lattice 750F sport kit for $150 last year shipped from England, and I've seen the lattice ones around $200-250.

If you don't want the sport kit, and just want the lattice foot plates from an american CB1100F I see those just come up for $50-100 sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
No, that's the high end of the spectrum for a part that's fit for a show bike, not a rider. I bought my non lattice 750F sport kit for $150 last year shipped from England, and I've seen the lattice ones around $200-250.

If you don't want the sport kit, and just want the lattice foot plates from an american CB1100F I see those just come up for $50-100 sometimes.
Ok, I was about to cry
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Been riding the CB every day now and I have noticed something that I am not sure if I should be concerned about. Generally I let the trans/downshifting and compression do a lot of my slowing when I come to a stop, but if I don't use the downshifting to slow me and just brake to a stop (from any speed) once I am stopped and clutch pulled I get a little bit of what feels like clutch slippage, just for a second. And then Neutral seems hard to grab. I have never had this occur on a bike before so I am wondering if I just need to adjust the clutch? The previous owner said that he had the clutch replaced last year and has only rode the bike a few times since then, is this just something normal that happens until the clutch is "broken in"?

I noticed that taking off from a stop was a little rough and did some research.Found that the idle should be set to approx 1100rpm. It was idling around 800rpm, after turning up the idle everything is wonderful there. They wife thinks I should order new decals and paint the bike a sparkly pearlescent white, which would look stunning I am sure. But I was planning to keep this thing as original as I could, now I don,t know what to do lol.
 

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If you're having trouble selecting neutral it sounds more like clutch drag to me.
Check the cable freeplay first, should be 10-20mm.
 

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They wife thinks I should order new decals and paint the bike a sparkly pearlescent white, which would look stunning I am sure. But I was planning to keep this thing as original as I could, now I don,t know what to do lol.
There are several variants of the 900F that were white from the factory in England and Europe. Many of them have better stripe and decal layouts than the US setup which personally triggers my ocd in the worst way - the tank decals don't connect with anything so the look unfinished. The white with the red and gray stripes that flow from tank to tail look much better than anything we got as a factory paint scheme here in the states and I think you can get them from places like CB Decals. Plus, your bike is not stock now anyway, and there are plenty of people who saved those silver and blue paint jobs because of the association with Freddie Spencer.


My advice? If you are going to paint it, wait till end of season - it's a lot of down time to be without a bike while it is being painted, and also the paint needs time to cure before you can wax it an spilling fuel on it then can make it weaken and lift. If you paint it end of season you have all winter to let it cure and then start riding it next season with a fresh coat of wax on it. You can also buy another tank, tail, and sidecovers and have those painted if you really want to keep your stock set.

Also so fun thing to look for: euro models came with a locking glovebox in the tail. If you want to repaint, might as well look for one of those since they are cool.
 

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If you are going to have it painted as opposed to doing it yourself, I've found I can get a lot better price from a good painter if I let them do it as a time filler over the winter. If they can do the work when they are in the waiting phase of a job, paint drying etc., then usually the price will go down. Give it to them in October and tell them you need it for March/April vs in 3 weeks.

I always liked this colour scheme, I think it's European, I've never seen one like it in person.
hondacb900f-1981-1-1024x768.jpg
 
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