[8ball]

Worn chains Wil often have tight spots. When you adjust it you need to rotate the wheel and check it in a couple spots. A new chain (and sprockets) is probably overdue.

Generally, one tooth less than the stock size up front is a good setup. Slightly better acceleration without major affect on top speed, or putting the engine at a buzzy rpm when cruising at 75 mph

 

[Geeto67]

chain slack is determined with the rider off the bike and the bike resting on it's wheels. as your suspension moves your wheelbase changes, when the swingarm is perpendicular to the ground, that is when your wheelbase is the longest, and you should have 1/2" slack there, which translates to about 1 inch up and 1 inch down from level at the midpoint between the sprockets when the bike is resting without rider. If the bike has been raised up you may have to adjust the amount of slack to looser, or take the shocks off, lower the bike on a jack till the swingarm is level, and then adjust the chain so it has 1/2" slack at it's longest point.

 

[Ews]

chain slack is determined with the rider off the bike and the bike resting on it's wheels.

That was what I was told when I was a pup and how I adjusted chains ever since. I will re-adjust it again this weekend and examine my sprockets closely.

 

[Teazer]

As Geeto alluded to, the critical thing is to make sure there's enough slack at the tightest point and that's with the sprockets and swingarm in line. The more static swingarm droop, the more slack the chain will have at full extension.

Old bikes tended to have all three aligned (tightest) on the stand without a rider and that's probably where that rule of thumb originated. But with any amount of droop, you may have to compress the rear end to get the tightest condition and that's what's critical.

 

[Geeto67]

teazer always says it better than I can.

 

[Ews]

Cracked into the front sprocket housing today and I think I found my culprit. When I removed the sprocket cover I noticed that it was dirty inside, to be expected, and found a few little friends hanging out where they shouldn't be.



Upon closer inspection I determined that these are likely the o-rings inside the links of my drive chain.



Other than that the sprocket seemed to be in good shape. So I need a new chain, but I will likely replace front and rear sprockets at the same time just to have that piece of mind knowing that it is all new and should last me a while longer. I am on a budget kind of, so any suggestions on chain/sprocket brands I should look at that will not cost the farm?

 

[XB33BSA]

definately go with a 520 conversion the hugely oversized 630 oem chain is just another signpost on outdated avenue
not only will you save multiple lbs in unsprung weight also the reduced mass weight of the chain itself is a measurable factor however small,in the laws of physics ,objects in motion the energy required to accelerate an object is directly related to the objects mass
and of course how fast it is being asked to,in this case of a drive chain,accelerate lineaerly to a certain speed and time to get there
since the 1970's eera 630 chain in oring sealed mc app was first put into use
just about every aspect of chains has improved, from greatly improved control of producing high quality high strength steel to improvents in the quality of surface finishing in relation to how the sealing ring is lasting over time wear wise
and the design of the seal itself and the type of material FKM TYPES ARE NOW POPULAR(viton)
if anybody tries to tell you a modern non chinese,sealed 520 chain is weak or will wear out to fast
just tell them they are ignorant ,that motogp machines with 3x the hp and torque of a cb900 all use off the shelf 520 chain
aluminum rear sprockets are fine just be sure and run a chain guard
because the tire edge is constantly trying to dump road sand etc onto the chain
and sand in sprocket teeth will accelerate wear on sprockets

 

[Ews]

definately go with a 520 conversion the hugely oversized 630 oem chain is just another signpost on outdated avenue

I can't seem to find anything on a 520 chain. but found lot's of 530 chains. is that what you meant or am I just not looking hard enough or in the right places

 

[Ews]

I can agree that chain technology today is vastly improved over 37 years ago. But I always get a little nervous when upgrading old vehicles with new parts. 9 time out of 10 there are no issues. But you never know. I would assume that modern OEM would still be better than original parts. Unless the literally change nothing, not even material composition.

 

[Ews]

Have not had the extra money to replace my sprockets and chain yet. My truck started acting up so I am forced to ride the bike and just be gentle with it. As I was putting it back together and checking the chain slack, I noticed that there is a little slop in the rear sprocket. It can wiggle in and out just a bit, my 1/16th of an inch if that. I cant imagine that this is normal. I think that is causing my issues. At what point do I need to be really concerned?

 

[TrialsRider]

If your rear sprocket has a rubber cushion drive then there might be some extra play in there as a result of worn out rubbers.

 

[Ews]

If your rear sprocket has a rubber cushion drive then there might be some extra play in there as a result of worn out rubbers.

I was actually thinking it was likely the cush drive. I will have to pull it apart and make sure. Lucky for me I know some people at the local Kawasaki dealer (the rims are from an 03' ZX9).

 

[TrialsRider]

Rip it apart, goop it up with a bunch of silicone, let it dry and go ride some more.

 

[Ews]

Saw a video on youtube where a guy used some old bicycle tube rubber to tighten the space in the cush drive, not sure how well that would work or for how long.

I was planning on buying a budget set of sprockets and chain, but after having misfire issues on my truck with some budget coil packs... I think I'll be buying better quality stuff from now on. Especially on something that I will definitely never take over any posted speed limits *wink wink nudge nudge eh? say no more *

 

[Ews]

Frotsy morning today. 35 F before I got on the bike and started riding. Pleasantly surprised that it started up easy and after about 15 seconds of choke idled just dandy on its own.

 

[Ews]

Small update since I haven't been on the forum in a while. Replaced my drive chain and put new tires on it. Still remains a hell of a daily ride.

 

[Ews]

 

[TrialsRider]

your rear tire is dirt blasting your chain, you might want to consider a guard for that. Chain is expensive.

 

[Ews]

your rear tire is dirt blasting your chain, you might want to consider a guard for that. Chain is expensive.

Yea, that part is on order

 

[Ews]

So in replacing the front tire I learned a fun little lesson. A 120 on an 82' CB900F is a VERY tight squeeze. I have about 1/8th inch on either side between the tire and fender bolts. And I still have to adjust the forks to keep my brake from dragging. Any tips on that task? As it is I have spent 30 minuites of tappy tappy tappy one direction or the other looking for the sweet spot, it didnt drag before i replaced the old 120 so I know its possible.

Ordered a new seal for behind the front sprocket, once that comes in I can replace it, change my oil/ filter and slap in some new plugs.