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Discussion Starter #1
i just picked up a 1971 cl350 thats in awesome condition. My plan is to ride it the way it is, all originial, untill may and then go cafe. I'm still in highschool and i have a senior project in may. i get 3 weeks off of school to do it so i'm hoping to go full cafe during that time. do you guys think its possible?

also the front wheel spins freely when moving backwords, but forwards gets hung up. I have messed with all of the brake adjustments to no avail and im just curious if anyone knows what this could be before i disassemble the wheel?

but anyways, here's the bike all tucked in with my roadster!




 

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cool, ive seen a few CL350s over here in britain (imported) and thought they look pretty good with the high rise pipe.
 

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Nice bike.

Let's talk about the Miata in the background. What do they call that style of Wheel yours has? My '91 BRG LE model has them, but I know that they are off a newer model. They must be desirable, since the car came with them AND a special locking luge nut on each wheel.

Thanks
 

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do research over the winter, decide what you like and don't like about the bike, see what other people have done to improve performance and handling, the slowly start buying hoarding parts in preparation for the build (so you don't lose half the time waiting for stuff to come in the mail).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
they are not stock wheels, if your brg has them whoever owned it before you put on aftermarket wheels if they look exactly like mine. some models did come with enkei semi hollow wheels that i suppost look somewhat similar, unless you are confusing them with the stock daisy's.
i may not know much about bikes yet, but i know a good amount about miata's.

check out clubroadster.net by far the best forum for miata enthusiests.
 

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nice bike and a nice miata too. I applaud your choice in a first bike. lots of guys your age I know want a 'busa or an r6 because they believe all the mtv jams bulls#!t. can your project be done? sure it can. but my .02 is for planning a cool trip and going. spend your money on the best helmet and jacket you can get. tool roll and tank bag would be next. go rack up some miles and smiles. the projects will be there when you get around to them. If you gotta have a class project spoon some dual perp tires on her and ride pikes peak. obviously we'll need photos along the way. good luck and welcome to the board. cheers, bcr
 

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how do you get garage space for your car and bike while still in high school?

are you like 38 years old?

tex
 

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+1 Tex! -

I gotta shoe horn my bikes in my garage, if its below 60 and my wife cant park in there....shit + fan. Wuss.
 

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And Phil, I agree w/ bcr - put some new rubber on, and start counting the miles. There are soooo many great roads in your neighborhood. Thats a great looking CL.
 

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makes sense now.....enjoy the bike!

sorry about your colorado rockies!

go fightins'!

tex
 

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Discussion Starter #15
okay guys a got another question if no one looks and replies in here i guess i will post a new thread.
but, i disassembled the wheel today and and im waiting to remove the bearings till i can get a bearing drift. everything is super dirty so im gonna clean it all out and what not. but i was looking at the drum brake shoes and are the pads supposed to be connected to the shoes or are they supposed to just come off? i feel like there should be some sort of adhesive holding the pads to the shoes.

let me know guys, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
okay guys a got another question if no one looks and replies in here i guess i will post a new thread.
but, i disassembled the wheel today and and im waiting to remove the bearings till i can get a bearing drift. everything is super dirty so im gonna clean it all out and what not. but i was looking at the drum brake shoes and are the pads supposed to be connected to the shoes or are they supposed to just come off? i feel like there should be some sort of adhesive holding the pads to the shoes.

let me know guys, thanks!
 

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the pads - the actual friction material - should always be bonded to the shoe - the metal part - if it weren't, no stopping would be/could be done.

correct me if i'm wrong on this, maybe there's some ultra-unknown brake shoe i don't know about, but every brake shoe i've ever seen has been bonded.

CF
 

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the pads - the actual friction material - should always be bonded to the shoe - the metal part - if it weren't, no stopping would be/could be done.

correct me if i'm wrong on this, maybe there's some ultra-unknown brake shoe i don't know about, but every brake shoe i've ever seen has been bonded.

CF
 

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Discussion Starter #19
well it wasnt bonded and it did stop before because the shoes are still pushed out against the hub enough for friction to occur, however i think the lack of adhesive may be why the wheel was locking up. any adhesive recommendations from anyone that can be removed but will still hold?
maybe some rtv-esque material?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
well it wasnt bonded and it did stop before because the shoes are still pushed out against the hub enough for friction to occur, however i think the lack of adhesive may be why the wheel was locking up. any adhesive recommendations from anyone that can be removed but will still hold?
maybe some rtv-esque material?
 
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