i use chris marshalls iggy. it replaces the points with a magnetic pickup and is mounted on a plate he makes. it has a fixed advance. bolt it on, lock it into place. its actually a dyna s from a cb500/550 etc thats modified to run on the 350. there is no black box. it is crank mounted, replaces the flywheel, so you will have no charging system left. pretty much race only. you can contact him on through his webpage.
With regards to running a total loss system on a cb350 I have a few questions for you guys. Its obivous that you can't run the cb motor without a battery in the system. Has anyone ever figured out a way to ditch the battery and keep the fly wheel on the bike for suppling enough juice to keep the bike running. The black box systems from chris marshall are those using a crank trigger design? You ditch all the points and crap up by the cam? I'm sure that if someone looked at the wiring diagrams enough there has to be a way to ditch the battery and rewire the bike to run right. Any thoughts?
I don't know much about Chris M's ignitions, which I hear work really well, but they make ignitions that produce only the juice you need to make spark. Which means you don't need to run a battery. I have a Boyer Racing ignition that operates this way but runs off of the charging system. I don't run this in my 250 because the charging system weighs a little over 6 pounds. 3 and a 1/2 of those pounds are on the crank. You can't just wire it different with out something to change the voltage. Your charging system puts out AC and your bike runs off of DC. If you want to try it.... You could try running a 12 volt Tympanium ($50) which does exactly that, turns AC to DC. Like the band. It only has 4 wires, the obvious ones, 2 for your alt. and 2 for your main power. It's easy enough that even Jeremy could hook one up.
chris' has no black box. it installs on the crank and you yank the points. there was a guy talking about rewiring the system to run only spark a while back on the vintage roadrace list. it sounded cool. i definnitely dont know enbough about electricity to tell you how to do it though. i think maost racers run the pvl system. i have seen cheaper versions of it in the british classic racer mags though. the pvl is something like 400. it pulls out the battery and does what arron mentioned. like the tympanium. you can get them from alot of places. pro-flo.com has em. they are made in, gulp, england, like any good electrical stuff ever came from there.
i want one. i'll have one for my next race bike. guys rave about them.
So basically it sounds like I would need to do a half wave of recification to convert my AC off the altenator to the needed DC. Ok now the guys out there that run a "HOT" battery have no charging system at all right? They just over charge the battery to keep the bike running for the needed time right? For the guys that have ditched the altenator, stator and all that crap in the left side cover. Does it really make a big differance on the motor RMP's or power?
"don't run this in my 250 because the charging system weighs a little over 6 pounds. 3 and a 1/2 of those pounds are on the crank."
I've noticed more of a difference the smaller the bike. 7pounds is equal to 1 horsepower. So when I took 6.5 pounds off, it was like gaining a horsey. Plus the weight coming off of the crank helped it rev quicker.
Hey all, new here. Just got myself a 72’ Honda CB100 with a CL100 engine swap. Im replacing the lighting and fenders, but I’m running into an issue with finding compatible lights. Everything that I’ve found that is low profile runs on 12v, but the bikes battery is only 6v. Haven’t done a TON of...
Hello all............recently put a new battery in my 69 cb175. Battery died after a week or so. I only rode it for a total of an hour within that time. It usually takes 6 cranks with starter to get her going so i imagine that's draining the battery significantly. I also have an H4 type bulb...
Is anyone running an older DR650 as a stripped down trail bike or desert sled?
I am currently working on one, and trying to find a good exhaust, tire and seat setup. Open to input and suggestions.
In general, will mounting tires sized (110/90 -18F) and (120/90 – 18R) make a difference one way or another if a bike has tire/rim sizes to accept (100/90 -18 F) and (110/90 – 18 R) stock by the manufacturer? No clearance issues being a prerequisite.
Working on a bike that has a sorted history. Don't know any more about the motor other than it is a '83 or '84 CB or CM 450. Trying to figure out if we need a CDI when rewiring with a Motogadget M Unit?
Would appreciate help as we try to determine a wiring diagram.