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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings everyone! I was told to introduce myself before TEX gets to me. :0

I'm Jon and I'm currently working on a '71 CL350 Cafe Racer project. I did a total rebuild, rebuilt the engine, the whole shebang. I've now dismantled the engine four times (each for different reasons) and I think I've got it right now. She ran for the first time today and purrs like a kitten. For everyone that says Mikuni 32mm carbs don't work on a CL350, they are wrong! They worked just fine!

I'm currently trying to find a new exhaust system and rear sets that don't interfere with the kick starter. The tank and seat are out for paint, and I'll be working on the wiring shortly. She's coming along quite nicely, especially for my first time.

I have been reading this forum a lot these past few months. I did research here trying to figure out what kind of bike I wanted to start with, did research here trying to figure out what parts to buy, and now posting here to try to sell an item.

This forum is wonderful for all the free help it gives out. I appreciate all the help I've gotten from other members and I hope to help others out in the future!

You can check out my entire build log at 350racer.blogspot.com

Feel free to comment if you like!
 

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You guys should read Jonny's blog. He just jumped on the learning curve and kept on going. Got lots of work done. Despite some difficulties and setbacks (which he has documented in his blog), he's got an honest-to-god cafe racer brewing there.



Jonny, tell us more about this:

"I also continued working on the throttle linkage for a while. I got the second carb linkage done and soldered and it worked pretty smoothly until the linkage broke off inside the throttle handle. Apparently I didn't solder it on good enough. I'm glad it broke off while it was still in the garage and not while I was far away from home, but it is kind of annoying it broke off at all. I opened everything up and soldered it on again and took extra time to make sure it was done right."

We may be able to give some advice about cable soldering, etc.
 

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You guys should read Jonny's blog. He just jumped on the learning curve and kept on going. Got lots of work done. Despite some difficulties and setbacks (which he has documented in his blog), he's got an honest-to-god cafe racer brewing there.



Jonny, tell us more about this:

"I also continued working on the throttle linkage for a while. I got the second carb linkage done and soldered and it worked pretty smoothly until the linkage broke off inside the throttle handle. Apparently I didn't solder it on good enough. I'm glad it broke off while it was still in the garage and not while I was far away from home, but it is kind of annoying it broke off at all. I opened everything up and soldered it on again and took extra time to make sure it was done right."

We may be able to give some advice about cable soldering, etc.
 

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what kind of coils are you using? it looks like the plug wire is replaceable, unlike the stock coils....WANT....
 

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what kind of coils are you using? it looks like the plug wire is replaceable, unlike the stock coils....WANT....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey! Glad you had a chance to read my blog! I honest to goodness didn't think anyone cared! hehe It's slightly irritating you can't get email notifications when people reply to your topic.

Yeah I'm generally just learning as I go. I have zero knowledge of motorcycles and I'm learning pretty quickly (you kind of have to). I also have taught myself to weld, which I think is pretty neat. I patched up a hole in the stock pipes with the welder. I'll post pictures on my blog soon.

@ Steve - Well I got a push/pull throttle cable for my Mikuni carbs and the throttle cable linkage kit was a little janky. I had to use the old cable linkage from the stock cable and solder it on. It was difficult because the new throttle cable didn't accept the solder very well. I'm still a little worried about the integrity of the whole thing. :)

What advice do you have for me soldering the throttle cables? I need all the advice I can get!

@ Greg - I got XS650 OEM coils from MikesXS. They are working really well and yes, you can replace the spark plug wires at will. That's what I really liked about those coils. The yellow wires look pretty slick.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey! Glad you had a chance to read my blog! I honest to goodness didn't think anyone cared! hehe It's slightly irritating you can't get email notifications when people reply to your topic.

Yeah I'm generally just learning as I go. I have zero knowledge of motorcycles and I'm learning pretty quickly (you kind of have to). I also have taught myself to weld, which I think is pretty neat. I patched up a hole in the stock pipes with the welder. I'll post pictures on my blog soon.

@ Steve - Well I got a push/pull throttle cable for my Mikuni carbs and the throttle cable linkage kit was a little janky. I had to use the old cable linkage from the stock cable and solder it on. It was difficult because the new throttle cable didn't accept the solder very well. I'm still a little worried about the integrity of the whole thing. :)

What advice do you have for me soldering the throttle cables? I need all the advice I can get!

@ Greg - I got XS650 OEM coils from MikesXS. They are working really well and yes, you can replace the spark plug wires at will. That's what I really liked about those coils. The yellow wires look pretty slick.
 

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welcome.

are you actually using R/C car batteries to excite the magnets in the stator? or in the end are you going to use a real battery? If the former - details. Your blog says it is powering the coils, that is a new one to me most use it to polarize the magnets in the stator.
 

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welcome.

are you actually using R/C car batteries to excite the magnets in the stator? or in the end are you going to use a real battery? If the former - details. Your blog says it is powering the coils, that is a new one to me most use it to polarize the magnets in the stator.
 

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@ catboy - I have new throttle cables, but I needed to break off the old "stubby thing" at the end of the old cable and use it again. I got the new throttle cable to tin with solder, but the "stubby thing" wouldn't take the solder. It seemed like the solder was just floating on top of the material and not sticking to it. I couldn't tell what material it was. But I drilled two small holes into it in the hopes the solder would stick to the cable and get in those holes and prevent it from coming out again.

@ geeto - Sorry to have been vague in my blog. The alternator in the CL350 is a permanent magnet type, so it doesn't need to be powered. The circuit goes something like this: The battery powers the lights and the coils (for spark) and puts a load on the alternator, while the alternator charges up the battery (when the engine is running). I have an electrical engineer friend who is helping me with the wiring (boy did I get lucky), and he is confident an 11 cell R/C battery pack will be plenty power to get a spark while you kick it over, and then the alternator will do the rest of the work when the engine is running. I don't think you can run an R/C battery if you plan on powering an electric starter. I was originally looking at doing a batteryless system, but my electrical engineer friend said we could get a small enough battery that it would be hidden anyways.

Hope that helps! Feel free to ask any other questions! Thanks for reading my blog!
 

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@ catboy - I have new throttle cables, but I needed to break off the old "stubby thing" at the end of the old cable and use it again. I got the new throttle cable to tin with solder, but the "stubby thing" wouldn't take the solder. It seemed like the solder was just floating on top of the material and not sticking to it. I couldn't tell what material it was. But I drilled two small holes into it in the hopes the solder would stick to the cable and get in those holes and prevent it from coming out again.

@ geeto - Sorry to have been vague in my blog. The alternator in the CL350 is a permanent magnet type, so it doesn't need to be powered. The circuit goes something like this: The battery powers the lights and the coils (for spark) and puts a load on the alternator, while the alternator charges up the battery (when the engine is running). I have an electrical engineer friend who is helping me with the wiring (boy did I get lucky), and he is confident an 11 cell R/C battery pack will be plenty power to get a spark while you kick it over, and then the alternator will do the rest of the work when the engine is running. I don't think you can run an R/C battery if you plan on powering an electric starter. I was originally looking at doing a batteryless system, but my electrical engineer friend said we could get a small enough battery that it would be hidden anyways.

Hope that helps! Feel free to ask any other questions! Thanks for reading my blog!
 

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I don't know electrics or cb350s well enough to know how to pull this off.

IIRC the rc car batts are either 7.2v or 9.6v not sure how that is going to power the coils but then again don't know electrics.
 

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I don't know electrics or cb350s well enough to know how to pull this off.

IIRC the rc car batts are either 7.2v or 9.6v not sure how that is going to power the coils but then again don't know electrics.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
@ geeto - I can totally understand the confusion. In the picture it looks like I'm using 6 cell batteries, but that was just to see if they would fit. I actually ordered a custom 11 cell NiMH battery, which puts out 13.2 volts. It was only about $40 from cheapbatterypacks.com.

It seems counterintuitive, but hopefully I will be able to explain it and post the wiring diagram and a picture of the wiring when it's all done. Maybe some other people are looking to do kind of the same thing.

Anyone know of a good minimalist 2 into 1 exhaust system? I'm having a hell of a time finding anything...
 

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@ geeto - I can totally understand the confusion. In the picture it looks like I'm using 6 cell batteries, but that was just to see if they would fit. I actually ordered a custom 11 cell NiMH battery, which puts out 13.2 volts. It was only about $40 from cheapbatterypacks.com.

It seems counterintuitive, but hopefully I will be able to explain it and post the wiring diagram and a picture of the wiring when it's all done. Maybe some other people are looking to do kind of the same thing.

Anyone know of a good minimalist 2 into 1 exhaust system? I'm having a hell of a time finding anything...
 
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