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Discussion Starter #1
I need a better brake lever and perch for my CB72. I think some of the lack of braking power ( I have V.Brake linings already)is from the perch itself flexing when I pull on the brakes. The old Hawk stuff was very lightweight. Has anyone used any modern dirtbike stuff, like those folding levers, etc? Most ones I saw are for disk brakes and if I use a clutch one upside down the lever will fold the wrong way. I did see one for an XR50 minibike that was a drum so maybe that would work. Any thoughts?

Thanks, Chris
 

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chris,

2ls or 4ls? i have an extra suzuki i'd let you have for a small fee.

let me know sir.

tex
 

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I use Magura perches and levers I get from a guy off ebay. About $28 for a lever and perch I think. Don't care that much for the shape of the levers...they are dirt bike style..too far from the clip-on. I tap and thread a 5mm socket head into the brake light boss and use that to limit the forward travel of the lever...moving it back to a spot I like. Nice quality...bend instead of break.
JohnnyB
 

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actually, you know, i look at my brake lever and just wonder how much better my braking would be if could figure out a way to get all of that deflection out of everything. or would that just make it feel wooden? it seems liek theres alot of extra flex in the cable, the backing palte arms and the lever and perch. just thinking out loud.

jc
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Johhny, I'll check out the Magura stuff on Ebay. I wouldn't mind the curve too much, as long as the perch itself doesn't flex. I was at my shop earlier and I could watch the perch where the cable runs through it bend a good 1/4", and thats nto me pulling that hard.

Joe, Ideally, you would have zero play in the whole system, but thats called hydrallic brakes with stainless lines. You could change the feel by the master cylinder size. Bill Moeller from BoreTech has done this to his Cb450 brake. It pushes the lever rather than pulls it I think, but he says it works like a bad mother. Slave cylinder is down on the brake plate. I think a good cable (didn't I get you one made already?) good bearing surface to stop the brake backing plate from flexing too much, and good linings is pretty good. I have seen billet alloy arms for brakes, but the main benefit there is lightness over the steel that we have on our brakes. I don't think those little arms are bending that much, but you could always put one in a vise and stick a torque wrench on it and see how much it does bend. And I just told you on the phone that if you beef up the rod between the arms, that helps too.

Tex, no thanks. I have several of those already.And its a 2LS.

adios muchachos
 

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there you go with the beefing up my rod thing again. thats what aaron does for me. no i havent had anything made by your magic cable maker guy, but i have alist of about 10 different things i want him to make for me. id like to actually have a nice setup on the water buffalo.

me
 

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I'm with Chris...I like a very rigid brake setup...when I feel the lever start to tense up I want very little movement before it comes to a stop.

Joe, have you had the shoes arc'd to match the drum...lots of play in most systems comes from that area, or from mal-adjusted link rods.

Chris...this is the levers I get and the same guy I get them from:


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Magu...ewItemQQcategoryZ35587QQitemZ4587378404QQrdZ1

I usually replace the OEM phillips screws with some socket head SS screws...helps to get them tighter.
JohnnyB
 

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ya, ive done that. i just see alot of extra flex in the entire system. i thknk mostly its cable stretch, the lever bending, and other weird things. i can fell the shoes hit, but then i can really pull hard and things begin to bend. (not bend like its bent broken, things start to flex) just seems like none of that should happen in a perfect world. like once the shoes hit the drum, nothing should move anymore with the right amount of lever pull. but i guess its like anything else relating to leverage. with enough resistance, even a strong lever will bend. ok, i have to go pile stuff on my cat.

me
 

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the Suzuki waterbuffalo frontbrakedrum has one thing wrong with it
( besides the weight ) and that is that it uses a pushrod to actuate
the second brake shoe . a pushrod bends way easyer than a pullrod
so what you have to do is convert your pushrod setup to a pullrod
like Italian brakes ( Fontana and Ceriani )
if you do this your brake is way more solid
while your at it you might as well make some nice aluminum brake arms
just food for thought

have fun Eldert






Edited by - radducs on Nov 10 2005 10:33:59 AM
 

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Discussion Starter #12
A pull set up is defintely way better, but beefing up the push rod helps some. The hard part about making alloy arms is getting a broach made to cut the multo-toothed hole to go on the brake cams.

With a buffalo, I guess you could flip the second arm the opposite direction, weld on an extension to the back end of the first arm, adn end up with a pull set up.

honestly, I've never really had a problem with my Buffalo brake, and I've used stock linings. If only they were 50 lbs lighter!

adios muchachos
 

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Several times I've thought about trying to make the broach. Thought maybe I could mill a sharp edge on a stock cam....maybe heat and quench...then maybe it would carve out the splines in alloy with the right size hole.
Also thought of maybe taking a slitting wheel and using it to cut the splines in a piece of water hardening drill rod in a rotary table, then hardening and using that as a broach.
JohnnyB
 
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