Cafe Racer Forum banner


2101 Views 12 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  jbranson
I need a better brake lever and perch for my CB72. I think some of the lack of braking power ( I have V.Brake linings already)is from the perch itself flexing when I pull on the brakes. The old Hawk stuff was very lightweight. Has anyone used any modern dirtbike stuff, like those folding levers, etc? Most ones I saw are for disk brakes and if I use a clutch one upside down the lever will fold the wrong way. I did see one for an XR50 minibike that was a drum so maybe that would work. Any thoughts?

Thanks, Chris
1 - 4 of 13 Posts

Anyone ever seen one of these? $85.00

adios muchachos
Johhny, I'll check out the Magura stuff on Ebay. I wouldn't mind the curve too much, as long as the perch itself doesn't flex. I was at my shop earlier and I could watch the perch where the cable runs through it bend a good 1/4", and thats nto me pulling that hard.

Joe, Ideally, you would have zero play in the whole system, but thats called hydrallic brakes with stainless lines. You could change the feel by the master cylinder size. Bill Moeller from BoreTech has done this to his Cb450 brake. It pushes the lever rather than pulls it I think, but he says it works like a bad mother. Slave cylinder is down on the brake plate. I think a good cable (didn't I get you one made already?) good bearing surface to stop the brake backing plate from flexing too much, and good linings is pretty good. I have seen billet alloy arms for brakes, but the main benefit there is lightness over the steel that we have on our brakes. I don't think those little arms are bending that much, but you could always put one in a vise and stick a torque wrench on it and see how much it does bend. And I just told you on the phone that if you beef up the rod between the arms, that helps too.

Tex, no thanks. I have several of those already.And its a 2LS.

adios muchachos
See less See more
A pull set up is defintely way better, but beefing up the push rod helps some. The hard part about making alloy arms is getting a broach made to cut the multo-toothed hole to go on the brake cams.

With a buffalo, I guess you could flip the second arm the opposite direction, weld on an extension to the back end of the first arm, adn end up with a pull set up.

honestly, I've never really had a problem with my Buffalo brake, and I've used stock linings. If only they were 50 lbs lighter!

adios muchachos
1 - 4 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.