Went to the site and had to laugh when I saw the pic of the girl and the 2 starters. Caption on the girl says "Girl not for sale" , I wonder if I could rent her for a few hours.Doc Z Solo Starters.
Not cheap, but VERY well built
What kind of money are they getting for one with or without starters? Starters can be pricey if you get a good one (or 2). My motor is 1327cc and 11:1 cr.Helpful hint: Doc races Aermacchi (HD) 350 Knuckleheads in AHRMA. I was able to trade an engine for my set as shown in pix, without the batteries and starters (O'Reilley's)
About $800 for the Doc Z unit. I paid $50 each (or something like that) for the starters with a lifetime warranty from AutoZone.
There's a guy on ebay that sells plans on how to make one. Maybe that's an option.Went to the site and had to laugh when I saw the pic of the girl and the 2 starters. Caption on the girl says "Girl not for sale" , I wonder if I could rent her for a few hours.
Mine always started first kick, would everytime if you knew how to start one. When we were finished at the car wash I would go sit on the curb. My brother would ask me what I was doing. I said I'm taking a rest while you try and start your wet Triumph. I'd usually have a 5-10 minute break, then I would kick mine once and be on my way.Buy a home on Signal Hill CA.
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A good place to live if you own a Harley-Davidson XLCH with a FireBlanks-NoRemorse magneto!
Danger, is my business."
Firstly what are you trying to start?anybody have one , our know of one for sale or who sells em, other than the guy in aus... battery or gas or 120v electric, thanks, tom
Go for something like the "Startingblock" design with a deep cycle battery in 12v, there are a few similar starters out there Alf Mossel Racing makes similar. These starters have a raised rear roller, both rollers are driven and conical to keep the bike central. Go for the most powerful one you can find within your budget. Have a real close look at the starter for quality as most are pure rubbish and tear themselves apart very quickly. Most use car starter motors so are high torque short period usage so be careful not to kill the motor in frustration if you bike develops a problem, if you do put the starter drive motors under severe load the heavy cables will heat and burn their insulation I kid you not. Don't get a belt drive type unless you want to take a box of spare belts with you to every circuit. The chain drive type are better but avoid those that have the drive sprocket welded to the motor shaft which means you'll have to go back to the maker if the motor goes rather than the local motor spares shop.starting 2 stroke engines , so not alot of CR. have to be portable to circuit.used semi- reg. battery prefered ( no outlets at circuit ?). and if im by myself. i cant be at 2 places at 1 time , so a battery roller w/ foot control ? seems like im looking at 1000. so you have any ideas, thanks, tom
Same as mine, but with the added $200+ dolly feature.My race circuit starter is 24V (similar to the picture below which is 12v), twin motor, twin rollers and both rollers drive. It in steel and weights a tonne but can start anything from 13:1 500cc British singles to big modern Ducatis to Jap multis both 4 and 2 stroke. I also have a petrol starter for lighter work and engines that are healthy and run in.
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If you are starting a big race Ducati or Hi comp Harley or similar the back bar stop the starter from being shot forward under the bike or the bike being thrown backwards, 24v and two motors is a potent thing. For smaller stuff like British twins its not needed. You could always take it off!Same as mine, but with the added $200+ dolly feature.
Oops, it has one feature I don't care for - the "back up bar". Which means you must back into it, cant roll right on straight away.