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looking for a roller starter

74386 Views 121 Replies 26 Participants Last post by  speedrattle
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I had a set Doc Z rollers for a while and they worked well, but were heavy to cart around to the races. A friend built himself a set using 1x2 steel, a winch motor to power it and boat rollers. I used his a few times and liked them so I built myself some follwing his design. I use a foot switch to run them. Most of the hardware is go kart stuff. My Guzzi battery powers this just fine, so you can get an idea of scale from the battery. I might add wheels to one end so I can roll it around, and I still need to finish up some details like make a small ramp from plywood but they are functional now. We race Yamaha RDs and these rollers work well for that. I cant say if this would work on a four stroke or something of larger displacement, maybe with some lower gear reduction. All in for around $250 or less. Weighs in at 43lbs, not counting the battery. The Doc Zs were way heavier than this.
Just another idea and something not too tough to knock together yourself.
Mark

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Machine Auto part Tool Cylinder
anybody have one , our know of one for sale or who sells em, other than the guy in aus... battery or gas or 120v electric, thanks, tom
Well, I am your man if you (or anyone else) needs a roller starter.
I just came across this forum and joined a few minutes ago.
So that makes me a brand new member.

I am a flat track racer and machinist riding a Bultaco Astro 360 in the Vintage class.
I am an individual racer, not a company.

Last summer here in Texas, where it is always hot....... my bike loaded up at a race and was difficult to start.
So I came home determined to buy a roller starter.
I soon found that outside of Australia or the UK no one makes them.

So, being a machinist I decided to make my own, since I have a machine shop at home.
Made one for my own use and soon found there were a few others out there needing roller starters too.

Here are some details of what I make:
Mine is made using 1/4 inch 6061 aluminum plate.
I make the rollers using 3 inch diameter DOM structural steel tube.
The starter motor is a Hi Torque starter made for a Ford diesel tractor.
I use a continuous duty solenoid made for a golf cart and marine winches.
Where welding is required I Tig weld the parts.

The unit can be completely dis-assembled in a few minutes using a couple of common wrenches.
Each starter comes complete with a ramp, a foot switch, and battery cables.
A battery is not included. But other than a battery the unit is ready to use.

My price for each starter is $825 plus you pay the shipping. I only ship to the 48 states using UPS Ground.
My starter is well made and you will find the workmanship to be pretty good.
I guarantee this starter will start any motorcycle regardless of compression ratio and will do that with any kind of tire, be it street, track, of full knobby.

My intention was to make a starter that is better than the Doc Z and far less costly.
I feel that I have achieved that in spades.

If you are interested in a starter then email me at [email protected] for pics and a video link about my starter.
If you give me your city and zip where you would like it shipped to I will give you a firm shipping price.

Since I am new here I have no idea how to post a picture at this time.
Also, at this time I have only one starter in stock but I am building more and will have them ready soon.
Thanks for your interest.
Blake Perry
Houston, TX.

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Nice product.
Thanks! It is well made and does what it is built to do.
Perry
So I've done some research and find most of the roller starters are in the $800 range to begin with. Some claim to be portable, but you still need to handle the battery separately. I've seen hand held units that were incorporated into a hand cart making them portable. I've priced the material needed and can incorporate a roller starter into a hand cart for less than $175, and make it totally portable and take up no more space than the hand cart standing up. What I am going to do is use my hand cart that looks like this:

I will cut the "T" strap out of the top center and lay the cart on the ground and weld in an identical unit to this one from member Mgmark:


You lay it down and back in over the top handle. All nice and tidy. I just won a starter motor on Egay for $59. I'm going to get the frame stock tomorrow from the local metal salvage yard. The battery will be a gel type and will be semi permanently attached. All you have to do is lay it down and place the start pedal where you need.
I'll probably make 2 to start and see if I can't $800 for one of mine to offset the cost of mine.
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So I've done some research and find most of the roller starters are in the $800 range to begin with. Some claim to be portable, but you still need to handle the battery separately. I've seen hand held units that were incorporated into a hand cart making them portable. I've priced the material needed and can incorporate a roller starter into a hand cart for less than $175, and make it totally portable and take up no more space than the hand cart standing up. What I am going to do is use my hand cart that looks like this:

I will cut the "T" strap out of the top center and lay the cart on the ground and weld in an identical unit to this one from member Mgmark:

You lay it down and back in over the top handle. All nice and tidy. I just won a starter motor on Egay for $59. I'm going to get the frame stock tomorrow from the local metal salvage yard. The battery will be a gel type and will be semi permanently attached. All you have to do is lay it down and place the start pedal where you need.
I'll probably make 2 to start and see if I can't $800 for one of mine to offset the cost of mine.




I look forward to your report on how your starter project turns out.
I hope the starter motor you bought has enough grunt to work.
The first one I made used two outboard motor starters (one on each roller) and did not have the power to do the job.
The second one I made used a good motor but was made out of steel. At 65 lbs it was not portable by any means, unless I put wheels on the thing.

The third roller starter I made was made of aluminum and weighs 45 lbs.
It is engineered out and built to almost perfection, and I continue to make this model aluminum starter.

It is easy to carry around in one hand, and yes the battery is a separate item.
But for my use, I unload the starter from the van and set it on the ground in the pit area.
It stays there all day with my bike, so I have no need to 'wheel' mine around anywhere.

Send us some pics when you get something together.
pg
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Your unit is not convenient for places like Bonneville and Ohio where you have to take it with you to the start line and then remove it immediately. You can't say yours is any more easy to place where ever you need it.
I will post pics as I make it. I have an extra cart I can use for mine. The cost of the cart would raise my pricing by about $30. If I use a new starter it would bump it another $40, so I'm still less than $250 in material. The common starters for these are 1959 Ford tractor starters.
Your unit is not convenient for places like Bonneville and Ohio where you have to take it with you to the start line and then remove it immediately. You can't say yours is any more easy to place where ever you need it.
I will post pics as I make it. I have an extra cart I can use for mine. The cost of the cart would raise my pricing by about $30. If I use a new starter it would bump it another $40, so I'm still less than $250 in material. The common starters for these are 1959 Ford tractor starters.
Yes you are correct about the motor. I use a 1954 Ford tractor Hi Torque starter motor. This motor cost me $145 and change.
With all of the parts involved along with the machining, I have serious doubts regarding your pricing being so low.
If that were the case everyone and his brother would be using a roller starter.
I am only speaking from the experience of making many of these units and selling every one of them.

So I watch your progress with great interest.
Keep those pics coming.
pg
I'm a price shopper, don't believe in paying retail for anything. I can get those starter motors new for $98.
I'm a price shopper, don't believe in paying retail for anything. I can get those starter motors new for $98.
Yes you can, and there goes 39% of your $250 budget. How much do you expect to charge for your labor? Free?
pg
Yes you can, and there goes 39% of your $250 budget. How much do you expect to charge for your labor? Free?
pg
I included the used starter at $59 in my under $175 price, so a new starter puts me at $216. I'm sure my labor charge will come out of the $584 left over. I think I can make a few dollars after labor. Why do you continue to try and talk me out of it? I still won't want one of your units.
I included the used starter at $59 in my under $175 price, so a new starter puts me at $216. I'm sure my labor charge will come out of the $584 left over. I think I can make a few dollars after labor. Why do you continue to try and talk me out of it? I still won't want one of your units.
Quite the contrary,I certainly am not wanting to talk you out of anything. I want to see you make one in fact.
Since you are planning on making roller starters and making statements regarding the cost, I am just pointing out some of the things I have encountered in making mine.
When you start adding up all of the parts needed it comes to quite an investment.
Add to that the large amount of time to produce these things and you find yourself making $5 an hour for the labor unless you charge what it actually cost you.

As I said, I have made many of these and sold every one.
As for selling you one, I have no intention of doing that at all.
I sell these faster than I can make them now and one more order I do not need.
If you can make and sell them, then I welcome the relief it may give me on keeping up the production level.

If you think I am harassing you that is incorrect.
I am just passing on some of my experience and I will comment no more if that keeps us happy.
Good day to you.
pg
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As I progress feel free to critique the build. I of course will custom powder coat them after all the welding, because that's what I do.
I am aware of the issues and have done enough research to know what to look out for. My plan leaves the cart to be a cart when the battery is not on it. Or I may put a second shelf on it for carry capacity or for a second battery for a 24v system.

Trailer Rollers $7.50 $15.00
5/8" Pillow Blocks $6.90 $27.60 $42.60
20t 35# 5/8" sprockets $7.50 $30.00 $72.60
10' 35# chain $13.00 $13.00 $85.60
59 Ford Starter $98.00 $98.00 $183.60
7" 1x2 steel tube $7.00 $7.00 $190.60
Solenoid $10.00 $10.00 $200.60
Bolts $5.00 $5.00 $205.60
Foot pedal $10.00 $10.00 $215.60
Shafts for rollers $2.99 $5.98 $221.58
Battery cables $20.00 $20.00 $241.58
Cart $30.00 $30.00 $271.58

I think that's everything.
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As I progress feel free to critique the build. I of course will custom powder coat them after all the welding, because that's what I do.
I am aware of the issues and have done enough research to know what to look out for. My plan leaves the cart to be a cart when the battery is not on it. Or I may put a second shelf on it for carry capacity or for a second battery for a 24v system.

Trailer Rollers $7.50 $15.00
5/8" Pillow Blocks $6.90 $27.60 $42.60
20t 35# 5/8" sprockets $7.50 $30.00 $72.60
10' 35# chain $13.00 $13.00 $85.60
59 Ford Starter $98.00 $98.00 $183.60
7" 1x2 steel tube $7.00 $7.00 $190.60
Solenoid $10.00 $10.00 $200.60
Bolts $5.00 $5.00 $205.60
Foot pedal $10.00 $10.00 $215.60
Shafts for rollers $2.99 $11.96 $227.56.
Battery cables $20.00 $20.00 $247.56.
Cart $30.00 $30.00 $277.56

I think that's everything.
Yep, your parts list looks complete to me.
I would consider some material for a chain guard and as I recall, you are going to use plywood for a ramp?
When you get to the point of attaching the rollers to the axle(s) I would like to see how you do it.

In designing mine I wanted to use trailer rollers at first, but could not find a good way to attach the rubber rollers to the steel axles.
I know it can be done as I have seen several home shop rollers using them. The roller vee will work nice to keep the bike centered.
I just gave up and Tig weld my rollers up using DOM structural tubing with steel end caps.

pg
So today I procured the metal for the frame ($8) and cut and had my friend weld it up ($20)
Here's my cart ready to cut the "T" out:


Frame for the roller starter:


Framework in place:

I think this design is going to work out nicely. If you look at the brace bars in the back I will add extensions to them to secure the frame work to. I'm thinking about bolting (quick release pins) the frame work to the braces so it can be removed and used as a stationary unit.
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Looking forward to watching the progress!
I'll post as I go. I didn't intend for this to be built in 2 days. Patience children. I ordered the chain and sprockets, should here tomorrow or next ($35 shipped for 4 sprockets and chain). I ordered the wrong sprocket for the starter motor thinking it had a 1/2" shaft, I was wrong, it's an odd size. I'll have to bore the new bearing out. Business is dead right now so I have to stop spending what money I have right now. I'll now cut the bracket that holds the starter to the frame today.
Added a coat of bedliner to the starter to freshen it's appearance. Measured and drilled the pillow block holes. Waiting on the pillow blocks and rollers to move ahead. Once those are in place I can locate and weld the starter bracket. Instead of messing with the wrong sprocket, for $5 I just ordered the correct one, which wasn't an odd size at all, it's 5/8" like the rollers.
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It is looking good.
You will want 13 to 13-1/2 inches between the roller center lines.
I am interested in how you attach the rollers to the axles too.
pg
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