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quote:
Yeah don't weld them together, I need one for each instake. I'm funny, I didn't read all the words. I just looked at the pictures and some of the words and put together a sentence I liked.

Aaron
That's some funny shit there boy.

Hey, back on track home boys.

I've got my pathetic parts store online at: http://www.jrbranson.com/BikeParts/CDR-Parts.htm

JohnnyB

PS. Remember.. No means No...but passed out means yes....or at the very least " I don't give a shit"
 

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It's not so shiny. I guess I better get shining.

Anyone else notice the difference in the size of the hole for the starter between the sloper and the vert?
 

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Scott,
Whatcha got there a new engine? It has the look of an engine that's gotten kind of hot at some point. Could just be the photo.

Save yourself some trouble, take those cases to the local auto machine shop and have them put it in the automated washer. I guess it depends on the engine and how baked on the stuff is but it worked good on one of my engines.

No I never did notice the difference in starter mounting holes. The Vert CL175 had a starter didn't it? Whereas the sloper CL175 didn't?
JohnnyB
 

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Yeah, look at the size of the starter hole in this vertical. It's significantly different in size. Just another HM change.

scott




Edited by - imslow on Dec 02 2004 11:42:25 AM
 

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Johnny,
It was like Christmas when I got home. By the way your scraps are better then some pieces I've started with. Also the attention to detail on the end cap is more visible in real life then in the picture, so thanks for knowing how anal I am. What size bolt do you thread your end caps to?

Aaron
 

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Aaron,
I tap them to 5mm (not sure what the standard thread pitch is.. 1 maybe?) Then I just use standard 5mm Stainless socket head screws. The SuperTrapps come with an English (US) size like #10 or something. I like to keep the different tools to a minimum so I replace them with 5mm. The 5mm screws are kind of a tight fit in the disks but they will go through...sometimes I run a drill bit just a tad larger through the disk holes to open them up a tiny bit.
Drill the screws for safety wire or tech will bitch. Wouldn't hurt to put some antisieze on the screws, things get hot and dirty back there.... yes I said hot and dirty back there.
JohnnyB
 

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Anybody...

Has anyone yet measured their clutch springs and actually found them to be within the specs quoted in the service manuals? I've never found one even close. Spec is something like 31mm... I've never found one over 29mm. I'm starting to think the manual is wrong.
JohnnyB
 

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Discussion Starter #73
The 12 springs I measured were 27-28 mm. I just picked the 4 longest ones.
Putting washers under the springs just seemed to make it bind up.
 

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Bill,
Same here, all of them have been between about 27.8 and 28.8mm. I discovered the same thing about binding. Never had a real problem with the clutch except the first year I raced...when it got hot it wouldn't engage and the lever would go limp. Evidence the plates were binding. Now I take the new plates and run a file over the edges of the lugs to give them a little more room. A lot of the new clutch plates come with glue on the lugs, kinda a brownish stuff.
Also that first year I was probably using the clutch a lot more than I should have and heated things up pretty good.
JohnnyB
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I put washers under the springs on my 350 and it has worked great for a couple of seasons. It does get tiring at the end of a longer track day session but has never slipped.

I was concerned the 175 clutch would slip because the springs were beyond the replace wear limit in the book even though the plates had enough thickness.
When I'm not sure I try to imagine what Smokey Yunick would say and it's usually " just ride that sum bitch" and I smack myself in the ear like he would have. He's usually right.
 

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I'm fairly sure the manual is wrong about the springs.
We'll know shortly as I have 12 NOS springs on order.

In general I think the 175 clutch is probably considerably bigger than it needs to be, lots of potential to handle more power. I tried Barnett plates and didn't like them much. They don't make exactly the right size for the 175 anyway..they actually sell you CB200 disks.

Aaron, same here.. I don't think I've touched the clutch for two years. Although it never hurts to be thorough.

I'm thinking a smart guy could figure a way to take out a couple metal plates and friction disks and cut the basket down. It would be an interesting experiment anyway. Or better yet, go with aluminum plates. Probably save a 1/2 lb of rotating mass. More importantly..at a radius that makes them have a pretty large effect. Although I kind of like the starts I get now, carries the front wheel for about six feet.
JohnnyB
 

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Discussion Starter #78
The 1st clutch basket I used was loose- the aluminum part rattled on the steel gears. The rivets couldn't be staked to tighten it up. I thought at first that one may have been exceptionally abused or not up to the job. I did dress quite a lot of chatter marks on the "fingers" before realizing it was loose.
Perhaps this one was just a one off problem
bd
 

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quote:
I'm thinking a smart guy could figure a way to take out a couple metal plates and friction disks and cut the basket down.
JohnnyB
I usually resort to you for my smart guy stuff. I have been working on the 3in trapp and am almost finished. Here's where I'm at.

 

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Aaron,
Looks pretty good. What size screws are those? They look like 5mm. You didn't drill out all those disks did you?
I'd take off about six of those disks too. See...I'm always full of unrequested advice.

Do all 3" diskies have those ridges next to the screw holes? Don't think I've ever noticed that before. What size springs are those and where did you get them?

And.... what are those things stacked up in the photo?

JohnnyB
 
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