Mounting Plate
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Aaron,
I'll email you a copy now.
Bear in mind this is a VERY precise part. OD tolerance is about .010" to get it to fit well in the cover. ID tolerance of the inner hole is no more than .010". Position of inner hole compared to OD of plate is about .010" tolerance. Usually I have to turn the OD in a lathe using with it chucked up using the ID of the inner hole.
About the only reasonable way I've found to make one is print the drawing out on a printer at 1:1 scale so it's the exact size as the finished part...then tape the drawing down to your plate stock and use a prick punch to mark the centers of the holes VERY carefully. The outer bolt holes should be 6mm ( or enough for a 6mm bolt to pass through) the inner bolt holes I make about 5mm....or the proper size to tap for the PVL stator bolts. The slot has 3mm RADIUS ends....slot is 6mm wide to allow a 6mm bolt to pass through. After making about five of them I finally made ONE correct the first try, it's mounted to my bike...the one on Mary's bike was a slightly cobbed design but it worked.
The holes for mounting the stator itself can be very very touchy...I made a guide plug out of 3" diameter round stock....it fits in the hole in the mounting plate...then you place the stator over the plug and make sure the stator laminate plates are aligned nicely on the plug...then you use the proper size "layout punch" (5mm) and mark the holes on the plate. I can send you the plug if you need it to align the stator holes.
It can be a bitch to make one of these. This drawing was made from a scan of the actual part I use on my bike. What I need to do is pull the part off my bike...check it real close again, make sure the drawings are right and have emachineshop make a batch....but it seems not enough people are interested in buying one to make it worth while.
JohnnyB
I'll email you a copy now.
Bear in mind this is a VERY precise part. OD tolerance is about .010" to get it to fit well in the cover. ID tolerance of the inner hole is no more than .010". Position of inner hole compared to OD of plate is about .010" tolerance. Usually I have to turn the OD in a lathe using with it chucked up using the ID of the inner hole.
About the only reasonable way I've found to make one is print the drawing out on a printer at 1:1 scale so it's the exact size as the finished part...then tape the drawing down to your plate stock and use a prick punch to mark the centers of the holes VERY carefully. The outer bolt holes should be 6mm ( or enough for a 6mm bolt to pass through) the inner bolt holes I make about 5mm....or the proper size to tap for the PVL stator bolts. The slot has 3mm RADIUS ends....slot is 6mm wide to allow a 6mm bolt to pass through. After making about five of them I finally made ONE correct the first try, it's mounted to my bike...the one on Mary's bike was a slightly cobbed design but it worked.
The holes for mounting the stator itself can be very very touchy...I made a guide plug out of 3" diameter round stock....it fits in the hole in the mounting plate...then you place the stator over the plug and make sure the stator laminate plates are aligned nicely on the plug...then you use the proper size "layout punch" (5mm) and mark the holes on the plate. I can send you the plug if you need it to align the stator holes.
It can be a bitch to make one of these. This drawing was made from a scan of the actual part I use on my bike. What I need to do is pull the part off my bike...check it real close again, make sure the drawings are right and have emachineshop make a batch....but it seems not enough people are interested in buying one to make it worth while.
JohnnyB
On second thought....you should hold off on that drawing...I just reviewed my files and found a part scan that should be for the same part but it's got some differences...may be the part off Mary's bike. I'm going to have to pull the part off my bike and do a scan of it.
I'll go down and do that tonight....and a real pain in the ass it is too cause I'll have to retime the freakin thing when I put it on.
It's something I've been meaning to do anyway. I need to be sure of the proper drawing and then delete all the others.
JohnnyB
I'll go down and do that tonight....and a real pain in the ass it is too cause I'll have to retime the freakin thing when I put it on.
It's something I've been meaning to do anyway. I need to be sure of the proper drawing and then delete all the others.
JohnnyB
Aaron,
Go here:
http://www.jrbranson.com/showandtell-3.htm
And see a bunch of pics of the system before and during removal. Might make things a bit clearer.
working on a final drawing now.
JohnnyB
Go here:
http://www.jrbranson.com/showandtell-3.htm
And see a bunch of pics of the system before and during removal. Might make things a bit clearer.
working on a final drawing now.
JohnnyB
Johnny,
I didn't want you to go through hell for a drawing. I knew I had one, I just can't find it.It might be easier if you just mail me yours and you make yourself a new one.
Its the last major piece I need for the new 175. Your collectors saved me a ton of time.
Aaron
I didn't want you to go through hell for a drawing. I knew I had one, I just can't find it.It might be easier if you just mail me yours and you make yourself a new one.
Its the last major piece I need for the new 175. Your collectors saved me a ton of time.
Aaron
Aaron,
See the new files I sent you and the email. Most of the info is there. It's a complex piece to make. Pretty much requires a lathe and a milling machine with a rotary table....you could probably get away without the milling machine if I sent you my plate to copy with a layout punch. You'd still have to turn an accurate blank, cut the inside hole and make the cutout for the stator coil.
Email me and let me know what you think.
Geeto,
I use a typical flatbed scanner to scan in 2D objects like flat mounting plates, gaskets, the mounting surface of various engine components. Scan and saving using a format like tiff and AutoCad allows you to bring the raster image into a drawing at proper scale. You then simple trace the raster image with normal AutoCad drawing tools and you end up with a vector CAD drawing over the top of the raster image in the background.
Scan at something like 300 dpi, and you have accuracy down to 1/300th of an inch. AutoCad reads the scale off the tiff image file imports it at that scale....meaning if you scan a 6mm hole in a gasket...bring it into AutoCad...then use the circle tool to trace the hole...it will be a 6mm circle in the drawing.
Once I get a good DXF file built I import it into the emachineshop software and run validity checks on it. Rarely will it check out without making corrections...but when you get it right you pick your materials, choose the machine you think would be best ( mill, lathe, laser cut etc), then do a price check...all real time. If things come out to your liking you upload the file to emachineshop.com, send them the money and a month later you get the parts.
The intake flanges at the top of this page were made for me by emachineshop
http://www.jrbranson.com/BikeParts/CDR-Parts.htm
You can of course get all the details and download the software for free at:
http://www.emachineshop.com/
Be aware that if you send them the wrong drawings....you will get back the wrong parts...and there are no returns.
For some projects I can use a "bitmap to vector" program which will do some of the grunt work tracking a raster image and converting it to a vector format that can be used as a DXF file.
JohnnyB
See the new files I sent you and the email. Most of the info is there. It's a complex piece to make. Pretty much requires a lathe and a milling machine with a rotary table....you could probably get away without the milling machine if I sent you my plate to copy with a layout punch. You'd still have to turn an accurate blank, cut the inside hole and make the cutout for the stator coil.
Email me and let me know what you think.
Geeto,
I use a typical flatbed scanner to scan in 2D objects like flat mounting plates, gaskets, the mounting surface of various engine components. Scan and saving using a format like tiff and AutoCad allows you to bring the raster image into a drawing at proper scale. You then simple trace the raster image with normal AutoCad drawing tools and you end up with a vector CAD drawing over the top of the raster image in the background.
Scan at something like 300 dpi, and you have accuracy down to 1/300th of an inch. AutoCad reads the scale off the tiff image file imports it at that scale....meaning if you scan a 6mm hole in a gasket...bring it into AutoCad...then use the circle tool to trace the hole...it will be a 6mm circle in the drawing.
Once I get a good DXF file built I import it into the emachineshop software and run validity checks on it. Rarely will it check out without making corrections...but when you get it right you pick your materials, choose the machine you think would be best ( mill, lathe, laser cut etc), then do a price check...all real time. If things come out to your liking you upload the file to emachineshop.com, send them the money and a month later you get the parts.
The intake flanges at the top of this page were made for me by emachineshop
http://www.jrbranson.com/BikeParts/CDR-Parts.htm
You can of course get all the details and download the software for free at:
http://www.emachineshop.com/
Be aware that if you send them the wrong drawings....you will get back the wrong parts...and there are no returns.
For some projects I can use a "bitmap to vector" program which will do some of the grunt work tracking a raster image and converting it to a vector format that can be used as a DXF file.
JohnnyB
Aaron.....speak to me bro. What's the situation.
I can send you my mounting plate if you are in a jam. I should have plenty of time to make myself another one.
How much money you got?
You are right....it would be much easier if I just send you mine.
JohnnyB
I can send you my mounting plate if you are in a jam. I should have plenty of time to make myself another one.
How much money you got?
You are right....it would be much easier if I just send you mine.
JohnnyB
I was kind of being sarcastic thinking that you'd laugh it off. I still have a lot time before I'll need one. I will try and make my own if its not accurate then I will run my crank trigger until I get one.
No rush, just do it.
Aaron
No rush, just do it.
Aaron
See...the deal is I'm sitting here at my desk with the plate in my hand at this very moment....if I plan to make another one there is no better time. I can just use this one as a template.
Give me a two or three weeks....I'll see that you get one. I'm going to be out of town for about ten days for Christmas (DeerValley skiing), after that I should have plenty of spare time.
JohnnyB
Give me a two or three weeks....I'll see that you get one. I'm going to be out of town for about ten days for Christmas (DeerValley skiing), after that I should have plenty of spare time.
JohnnyB
Aaron,
Got the blanks for two more PVL plates turned up. That's the hard part, now just have to machine out the slots etc.
Of course you are getting the "Daytona" quality piece...I even have it stamped "Phinney" so I don't get it mixed up with others. Perfect fit in the engine cover, lapped on a surface plate, GP quality for you baby!
JohnnyB
Got the blanks for two more PVL plates turned up. That's the hard part, now just have to machine out the slots etc.
Of course you are getting the "Daytona" quality piece...I even have it stamped "Phinney" so I don't get it mixed up with others. Perfect fit in the engine cover, lapped on a surface plate, GP quality for you baby!
JohnnyB
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
