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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Started out as this...
new.jpg

Converted to this by previous owner...
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Arrived in my garage with loose chain, a hole in the right fairings from a low side, bent right radiator, rashed brake MC, no plate, no headlight, no brake light, still geared supermoto short, cracked seat, poor seat ergos (slanted way too forward), scraped up swingarm from too small rear sprocket, just overall sloppy...
Bike on the second day I had it, cracked a woodruff key holding the timing rotor/flywheel in line and the bike stopped working. Ran down the parts needed to fix it, flywheel puller and new key and it fired right back up.
Changed the gearbox oil, drained the engine oil and filled up the wrong hole, apparently the engine is a dry sump system and oil is filled through the oil reservoir.
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My first priority was to get the bike titled. Paperwork and $ was submitted and I'm awaiting the new title in the mail. Yea.
Next was to make it sufficiently road legal which is no small feat.
vrod headlight.jpg
the bike is so light, it will stand up with the pitbull just resting on the rear spools and not lifting the rear wheel. Weighed the bike when it arrived and I got 280#'s. Great for a road bike, not so great as a dirtbike.

Fabbed up a license plate bracket. Swapped out 16t front sprocket for a rare filed down (a full sized 17T sprocket hits the swingarm) 17t. Bought a new chain and a larger rear sprocket.
Looking to get rid of the cheap Koso tach and malfunctioning low oil pressure light. I have my eye on a sweet Stack tach with integrated speed, and two channel pressure/temp. ST700.
Had this Vrod headlight for years and never got around to use it. I fabbed up a bracket and drilled a couple small mounting holes in the upper triple and it looks right at home.
I have an aprilia rs125 upper fairing that I intend to make fit for the track. But, I wanted the bike roadworthy as easy as possible so I could ride it. On went the headlight.

So much to do, so little money...
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
lol...
my bro dropped off some of his crap when he moved and never picked it up.
it's a storage rack now. but my garage is a disaster area.
 

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Hey that can't be right, it has a front fender! Didn't you get the memo, all cafe racers must be personalized by removing the front fender.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
this engine/bike was built for Chuck Sorensen a former AMA 250gp champ to compete in some motoamerica races.
It's close to a full on race engine by Amauri Nunez, former Aprilia supermoto crew chief but had overheating issues requiring a couple rebuilds while racing. it will probably not survive long with me either. But it reportedly dyno'd around 80hp.
im on the lookout for a spare engine
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What hole did you use? Straight into the crankcase?
gearbox. it looks like it should be right into the crankcase, but go figure, its a dry sump engine and theres an oil reservoir that needs to be filled.
yes, i have a service manual...
yes, i've read it.
yes, i am a complete ultra-moron...
 

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You are Soooooo going to be popping little wheelies much of the time!

Should have said it was an Aprillia, then I would have understood the bits falling off,
they tried to make a trials bike at one time, didn't work out so well but it did prove that USD forks are useless on a trials bike.
& don't spare the lock tight ;)
 

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So your announcing that here just to punish yourself? Everyone here has done stupid shit, not everyone will admit it. I drained the oil out of the leg of an OMC outdrive and wandered away. Launched it next spring and learned to always refill or hang the big red tag on the ignition.
 

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Have you done any poking around to check things out? Being a plain bearing crank, they obviously don’t like that sort of thing. How easy is it to peek at one of the cam journals?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I share because I guess misery loves company...

After that, I filled and ran the engine, then drained it again. Inspected the filter. Didn't see anything, but I'm not sure what to expect really. Engine sounds like shit to begin with, rattling drive chain and all.
Went out for a short run up and down the street a couple days later after self flagellating myself and things felt OK? I will take a peek at the cam journals at some point here.

One of the reasons for the FAIL was the hack job done on the wiring to fit an el cheapo Koso tach. I think the oil pressure wire to the gauge which worked at first, just fell out of whatever socket it was jammed into at some point otherwise I would have shut the engine down the second I saw no/low oil pressure.
As it was, I had a AT LEAST 5+ minutes idling on the rear stand with very little oil... I see those plain bearings heating up and seizing and spinning in my dreams. I suppose the cams would should wear first as they basically run on nothing but oil film.

So, the next step will be fitting oil pressure/oil temp sensors and gauge and a decent tach. I think I want those installed before I even bother taking the bike out again.
 

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Hopefully you have a roller bearing mounted cam because otherwise it might have been steel running on aluminum. Did your valve clearance change? if no you 'might' be amazingly ok if yes :| oh oh that might not be good.

... was a dirt bike design surely they made it to handle low oil pressure :rolleyes:
 

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That has been my experience with the engines I have worked on. Usually the cam suffers first, so if things look ok there, then you’re probably ok (assuming it too runs on plain bearings). I acquired a CM400 (obviously not in the same league) that has seized and fallen over due to a piece of crankcase webbing coming lose and derailing the oil pump chain. The cam had seized, but the crank bearings showed no sign of scoring. What kind of bearings does the cam run on?
 

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Ps...If you want a tach that is just a tach, have a look at Scitsu. They won’t break the bank. Can’t personally vouch for them, although the guy in the UK was very helpful. Wanted one badly for a project, but ended up having to go a different route...
 

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Tried to find it just now and it certainly looks like the cam rides on a big ass roller bearing, I think you are good to go.
 

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i don't remember now. been a long time since i was inside one, not nearly long enough though.

just had a look in the manwell, ball bearings it is. just the crank that'll be rooted then.

they always did sound a bit crap when started. with a single pick up on the crank, they run wasted spark and fuel for the first little while while the ecu works out where in the cycle the crank is, then they go to once per cycle. you can hear the change in sound.

if it has a balance hose between the throttle bodies, block it. it'll start and idle a shit load better.
 

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Oh well.... for the time run, the ball bearings won’t give any indication what’s gone on down below, although the cam/followers may. PITA, but worth pulling the bottom case off and having a look. If their cranks are decent, then good chance you can get away with just shells. While you are in there you may as well........
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Maybe I'll just run the fukker until I see metal shavings in the oil...
Maybe send a used oil analysis?

Engine probably gets a refresh in a year or so anyway. The routine maintenance on these things is crazy.
 
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