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Just a guess, but thinking that sticky tire with a light coating of road dirt would make short work of your scrotum. That’s assuming an elderly trials rider still has one.

#kevlarbananahammock
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Work sucks. No time to play. And to be honest, every spare moment I have to spend with a motorcycle I have been riding the gixxer so I don't kill myself on the trackdays coming up.

I did manage to find this great deal, though. A brand new M50 caliper bolts straight up to the forks.
Usually these are like $800 for a pair (Brembo M50 aftermarket calipers). People list used ones on ebay for $500+ for the pair. They are OEM on some panigales, zx-10r's, and KTM super dukes.

I found that KTM world will seel you an OEM brand new for less than $200 shipped. Only needed the one side.

m50.jpg

Needs new brake line, the lower fitting doesn't fit right and longer caliper bolts, but otherwise a perfect fit...

Edit- Flipped the brake line around and now it fits like a champ. 90deg bend by the MC and the straight hose end by the caliper. I've probably got caliper bolts all over the place at the garage...
 

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Discussion Starter #51
The bike runs 120/70 and 180/55 stock. That is kinda ridiculous for a 70hp 280# bike. The rear rim is a 5.5".
Marchesini will make a narrow rear rim but costs something like $1500 and takes 9 months.

So... I bought a used cbr500r wheel off ebay and I'm going to see if I can Make It Fit...
hondacbr500r.jpg

Bearings need to be up sized from 17mm to 25mm, but that's easy.
Spacing the wheel shouldn't be a problem.
Getting the sprocket and carrier lined up, though...

If this fits, 110/70 and 160/60 pirelli supercorsa td's are going on it.
 

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The bike runs 120/70 and 180/55 stock. That is kinda ridiculous for a 70hp 280# bike. The rear rim is a 5.5".
Marchesini will make a narrow rear rim but costs something like $1500 and takes 9 months.

So... I bought a used cbr500r wheel off ebay and I'm going to see if I can Make It Fit...
View attachment 98469

Bearings need to be up sized from 17mm to 25mm, but that's easy.
Spacing the wheel shouldn't be a problem.
Getting the sprocket and carrier lined up, though...

If this fits, 110/70 and 160/60 pirelli supercorsa td's are going on it.
Moving the sprocket shouldn’t be to much of an issue. There is usually enough meat to move it in and you can usually move the sprocket out with a spacer and still have it (the sprocket) properly seated on the carrier.
6BA62375-230A-413F-A2D2-7EACFD5048A9.jpeg .

553575C4-5FBD-4262-B88D-0BA6EB3E7B51.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #53
tricks to finding the wheel centerline and sprocket / disc offset distances?
 

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tricks to finding the wheel centerline and sprocket / disc offset distances?
Wheel centre can be done with string, but I have a couple of pieces of 2x2 6061 aluminum angle that are straight enough for the job and you can clamp them on the rim if need be. I have jigs to hold lazers for figuring out trail, but angle is easier for wheels. The sprocket, can be done with a straight edge. How you figure out where it is going depends on whether you’re moving it in or out. Depending how much room you have to work with, a piece of string or welding wire attached forward of the countershaft sprocket and fixed to something behind the bike is probably a good way to go. You can get it really snug and make sure it’s running parallel to the countershaft sprocket. The disc I would just figure out as you go. Once you centre the wheel, you can decide if it’s easier to move the rotor or the caliper. Do you have decent stands for the bike? At any rate there are several ways to skin the cat and you’ll figure it out as you go. Just sit and stare at it for a while once you hang the wheel in there. Just don’t forget tire width......
 

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BTW, one of my racer/frame building mentors told me not to get too anal about centring wheels. What exactly that means for you, I don’t know. You might want to measure the bike now and see how close they are and do some research. Things like what you have there... and how much offset you can get away with are out of my wheelhouse.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
bmw k1200r/s/gt had their wheels offset slightly. nuts, but must be a reason...
 

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bmw k1200r/s/gt had their wheels offset slightly. nuts, but must be a reason...
weird that would leave me to think the bike would turn differently depending on direction as you would be using different parts of the radius of the tires front to rear depending on direction. K bikes could be a shaft issue.

I am half heartedly looking for a K1300s at the moment, except I sat on a ninja 1000 today and it felt like a perfect fit.
 

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Here are a few random ones. Hard to capture the scale of things. You can get an idea of how much water comes down the river into the straight in the spring. Dark is freshwater runoff. Takes just under an hour to cross the straight. Then head through a narrow pass into the gulf islands. When in my boat, this pass isn’t a problem, but some you have to time around slack tide or you’re in for a wild ride. The straight can also be a gong show. Not all that uncommon for the ferries to stop running due to high seas, so you have to study the wind, weather and tides, before venturing out. I’ve had waves coming over the bow and it’s not something I’d recommend. The novelty wears off quickly. Nice thing about taking a bike on the ferry is that you’re first on and first off.

B1BADAA3-8EF6-4339-AE70-BE1A9706CE5E.jpeg 63D07D55-6863-4A22-9CF9-7077E73A1A55.jpeg DF0AEB96-0A08-49AC-8C37-433D2F8EFCD3.jpeg A41E800E-482E-4D25-A17D-4D6B5D9A2E1C.jpeg AA578C33-87FE-46FC-9B11-67269FB03DB5.jpeg FF8ADD41-B285-4F14-860A-EF8DAEDD123C.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Wheel showed up. The sprocket offset is close to my marchesini rim. My initial rough measurements with 6" dial caliper and a straight edge are the two are within 5mm of each other.
I don't know if I can get the front and rear wheel aligned to within 5mm, so I might just machine up spacers and call it good.

Because of the cush drive and the need for a larger bearing, a new cush drive spacer (between the cush drive bearing and the wheel bearing) is needed. I could also add a couple mm's to this to offset the entire cush drive a tiny bit.

Will need to still order bearings, machine down the spacers. But this looks entirely doable even without heavy machinery.
 
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