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Discussion Starter #82
Sold a mill and a lathe and I think that was the case.

We still get some interesting stuff.


South Bend Lathe - $1500 (Cheektowaga) hide this posting

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South bend 9 x 42 Lathe

3 Jaw Chuck; 4 Jaw Chuck, Steady Rest, Follow Rest, Face Plates, Collets, Toolholders w/ Cutting Bits, Drill Chuck, Live Center, Dead Center, and Other Miscellaneous Tooling

*Belt will need to replaced but still works
*Belt cover is cracked
Email Only. can see anytime between 8-5pm Will respond quickly
How bout that race?!?!?!

Dovi pulled a Marquez on Marquez!

I was watching the replays and he had the brakes on so far past the apex it was insane.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
I wasn't crazy about the aesthetics, so I redid it.

model 2.jpg

Performed about 10x worse than first one... literally. And was about .2kg heavier.
But, I've got to get moving on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #85 (Edited)
Of course, once I started on the subframe, I tend to build the design that requires the least amount of work.

The 1/8" wall bolt spacers welded to .03" wall tubing was a PITA until I got the heat settings right. So bad that I basically just hot metal glued the first two (upper subframe to frame mounts) and ground the globs of welds smooth. Soooooo lame.
The last two (lower subframe to footpeg/frame mounts) were much better as my muscle memory came back to me and I understood the heat distribution and intensity better. Welds decent enough to leave unfinished.
The .03" to .03" tube welding was better. Not my best work. Not great. But solid structurally and passable aesthetically.

I'm starting out with this. And will add on as needed.
mounting tabs for the seat pan, rear tank mount, exhaust, and cross braces and extensions for the tailpiece.

subframe progress 1.jpg
 

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Some day they are going to make a subframe out of plastic that is also an air box, rear inner fender, exhaust support and seat support all in one piece, held on by only 4 bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
they make them out of carbon fiber...
i wish you could get a fuel cell made to order in plastic and then cover it with a tank cover in the shape you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #88 (Edited)
this is an intresting look...
seatpan installed.jpg
seat pan is on solidly and securely except for a small tongue under the front that I need to fab a corresponding groove on the subframe to lock the seat pan down.
 

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they make them out of carbon fiber...
i wish you could get a fuel cell made to order in plastic and then cover it with a tank cover in the shape you want.
You could make a styrofoam plug and have it laid up in carbon fiber epoxy, than melt out the foam.

Looks like it’s coming along.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
You could make a styrofoam plug and have it laid up in carbon fiber epoxy, than melt out the foam.

Looks like it’s coming along.
I've still not tried my hand at fiberglassing...
It's something I've got to learn.
 

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I've still not tried my hand at fiberglassing...
It's something I've got to learn.
I dabble with it a bit, but still learning ,....In the process of modifying (widening) a plug for a mold. Lots of good videos out there. Only advice would be.. if your work area is attached to the house, I’d recommend using epoxy instead of the usual resin to keep the peace. It doesn’t stink to high heaven. Also IMHO, the epoxy is much better at resisting the effects of ethanol. Epoxy costs more, but worth it, especially for smaller indoor projects.

B1284E2B-9C1F-4730-A249-8F14577CC3A9.jpeg
 

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I dabble with it a bit, but still learning ,....In the process of modifying (widening) a plug for a mold. Lots of good videos out there. Only advice would be.. if your work area is attached to the house, I’d recommend using epoxy instead of the usual resin to keep the peace. It doesn’t stink to high heaven. Also IMHO, the epoxy is much better at resisting the effects of ethanol. Epoxy costs more, but worth it, especially for smaller indoor projects.

View attachment 98903
For one off I would just glass the stryo and than remove the what you can and melt out whats left. not really worth making a plug mold and than glass or fiber tank for a one off. This could be fairly easy to clean out if you need a pump pump panel anyhow.
 

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Agreed, but.... When I said plug for a mold, that was a bit misleading. It’s actually a plug for a buck to be used for panel beating...if it doesn’t work out as planned, then I can use it to make a mold. The plan B tank I have in mind (composite) doesn’t really lend itself to just glassing foam otherwise I would consider going that route...... but then I’ll already have the plug. At that point making a mold would be preferable just so I don’t have to sand fibreglass and deal with the mess and stink of bondo. I can pretty much do as I please around here as long as the bride doesn’t have to put up with any noxious fumes or stink, so worth it to keep the peace.
 

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Discussion Starter #94 (Edited)
Spent the weekend modeling more designs and this one seemed to bend the best. The entire unit flexed together without any real hot spots.
subframe.jpg

Started tacking the braces
subframeleft.jpg
subframeright.jpg

Need to get more 1/2" tubing
 

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i like the work and design
at the attach\ment points the end pieces that the bolts go thru the best scenario is an outer ring of contact
simply using a chatterless countersink works fine
this pretty much eliminates what will happen eventually if not done
the surfaces will work ever so slightly over time and with the aluminum it will especially wear so that the joint wants to move andf rellies much less on the friction of contact but of the modulas of the bolts
so that the contact is an outer ring about 3/16'' wide
another way to do it is braze or silver solder some an warshers on to give a nice large diameter band of contact
having the an just slightly larger od than the end fitting diameter allows a beautiful tiny fillet of brass or silver and will not warp the warsher like a weld
then get you a set of shcs countersinks(piloted counterboring tool) to make the socket head cap screw attachment bolts be flush https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/04600110?cid=ppc-google-New+-+Exclusive+Brands+-+PLA_sUJmY0GEK___334980939503_c_S&mkwid=sUJmY0GEK|dc&pcrid=334980939503&rd=k&product_id=04600110&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItdmmyP-P5AIVA6rsCh3lHQGcEAQYAyABEgLN5PD_BwE
 

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Discussion Starter #96 (Edited)
finally found some time to work on the subframe. finished the last brace. i havent decided whether to do an undertail. if so, ill leave the rails parallel and hang the exhaust between with a cross brace.

subframez.jpg

Spent yesterday at the track. Beautiful day in the low 80's. Best trackday weather in a long time.
Got my tire wear situation sorted out. Went faster a little. Still slow.
Nothing fell off the bike. And kept it on the rubber.

Good day.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Trackday season over for me.
Last scheduled day was rained out today. :(
$200 down the crapper.

On the other hand, I get some free time to work on this finally. Welded up the subframe. Getting the welder dialed in was a little more challenging than I expected. One of the issues was my fit up was amateurish and crap. I tried welding with a thin filler wire and blew through a few welds before realizing due to the gap, I needed a bigger filler wire to jam in there.

Anyway, It's done with an almost acceptable amount of distortion. I'll hit the thing with an oxy/acetylene torch while it's clamped in place to relieve some of the stress.


Next up is the undertail exhaust. I think I am going to go with a Hindle cone exhaust again.
https://www.ripplerockracers.com/product/hindle-mufflers-2/

allmufflers.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #98
you never know when motivation will kick back in. Track riding and my gsxr really took priority last year and this thing sat in a corner neglected.

work eased up a bit and i got off my butt and almost finished the subframe.
102844
 

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Discussion Starter #99
here it is on the bike. just need a couple tabs for the rear tank mount.

102845


next up is the exhaust. i need to decide undertail or side mount, fab a mid pipe and pick out a silencer.
 
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