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Hand laid carbon/epoxy vacuum bagged, vacuum infused and or hand laid vinyl ester /glass tanks all work well if the person constructing them knows what they are doing. Autoclaved carbon tanks are only as good as the person assembling and sealing them.

Tannermatic
It is incredibly difficult to get all of the air out when hand laying carbon. Not to mention get the proper ratio of resin to material.
 

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Question: We know that the correct ratio of resin to substrate is lightest and strongest, but does excess resin harm strength significantly? Obviously it's heavier, but is it much less strong? My guess is that most of us amateurs use too many layers of cloth/chopped strand (FRP) and even more resin as we err on the side of too much is never enough.

And do we know if those guys are vacuum bagging to pull out excess resin?
 

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Question: We know that the correct ratio of resin to substrate is lightest and strongest, but does excess resin harm strength significantly? Obviously it's heavier, but is it much less strong? My guess is that most of us amateurs use too many layers of cloth/chopped strand (FRP) and even more resin as we err on the side of too much is never enough.

And do we know if those guys are vacuum bagging to pull out excess resin?
This is discussed frequently on boat and boat building forums. I'm not an expert on this at that level but I've read that vacuum bagging reduces the amount of resin used and also increases penentration of the resin into the fabic and distributes it evenly.
 

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Is there a setting that will ping my phone if the OP ever comes back? Really enjoying this.

+1
 

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Well, that was a fun thread. If I had known beforehand, I would have had some popcorn handy. Please come back , pleeeeaaaseeeee
 

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Question: We know that the correct ratio of resin to substrate is lightest and strongest, but does excess resin harm strength significantly? Obviously it's heavier, but is it much less strong? My guess is that most of us amateurs use too many layers of cloth/chopped strand (FRP) and even more resin as we err on the side of too much is never enough.

And do we know if those guys are vacuum bagging to pull out excess resin?
It makes it more brittle. For a seat pan, probably not going to be much an issue. Car body, much more of an issue. Vacuum bagging allows close to the proper mix of glass to resin, gives you better penetration, and removes all the air.

The best, most efficient, and of course most expensive way to do it, is pre-preg.
 

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the tail isn't working so well
this whole thing feels eerily familiar to me, about a year ago, i got an email asking about a discount on the worlds fucking cheapest cafe seat, to which i replied basically fuck off you fuckity fuck, then the brother of the cheapskate emailed me from the same address asking for the same seat without discount, apologizing for his brothers behavior. so as far as the seat, it was probably just a copy of a cheap seat they found, no reason to waste effort actually building a proper plug that fits and looks right
 

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Most of my figure of how much resin to use is based on experience. As far as the resin to cloth ratio.... ideal is 50% resin to 50% cloth.... in the real world... there is usually a higher percentage of resin. You can test this by doing a burn test... essentially weigh a cured sample, then burn the resin out go the sample using a torch... then weigh the sample after the resin has been completely burned out. The fiberglass is not flammable. I could go on and on... but I am not going to bore you.

You can always spot a rookie... they are the ones who catalyze 1 gallon of resin for a part the size of a tail section

When infusing.... I make an educated guess on the size of the item I am infusing.

Tannermatic
 
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