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My little CB100

11776 Views 73 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  madcow87
Picked this thing up a few years ago..................


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This is what the factory tool looks like. Centre piece fits on the square bit, other piece on the lock nut. So you can hold the adjuster in place while you tighten the nut. They make longer feeler gauges with a bend on the end so you can get in there. If there is any wear or pitting on the end of the valve stem, it’s better to adjust them without the feeler gauge. If the stem is worn, the.gauge slides over top of pitting and gives you a false reading. You can just “lightly” snug down the adjuster to take out any clearance and then back it off a 1/4 turn or whatever works out to .002

Might want to sort out your charging system first.

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Grand Veteran... do they make orthotic riding boots? What’s next after that class..... or does that come in the form of an epitaph? You did better than I.... cleaned the shop, rode the couch and then had my biannual nap. Was still gassed from panel beating yesterday.
I actually wouldn’t mind having a TL.

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That's not a TL Cyorg , that's a 1980's something XR200.
TL is a nice woods bike, but the stock frame geometry makes it turn too slow.

... you want to wear a ball sac to a trials event Cyorg? you must live in one very queer part of the world.
Well I do live in Canada’s answer to San Francisco, so not likely anyone would notice if I was to don something like that.... with the exception of the bride who would most likely reach for that 12ga and a couple loads of rock salt.

I figured there was something off with that bike... a 250 would be my preference and yes only for farting around in the woods. Trials riding is above my pain threshold. A good friend is setting up 3 day guided tours in the interior, so may actually have to buy something.

Sorry for the high jack OP.

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Ah! now I understand lol you might want to try riding one of those up at Ioco before you buy it.[/QUOTE

Why wouldn’t ya.....

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They are heavy and turn slow, the twin shocks will keep the insides of your legs constantly bruised, they have little to no brakes,
and for me :/ I would probably have a heart attack trying to muscle the thing around sections.

Hey that's no Ioco that's a gravel pit, is that where you are going to ride it? :cool: no problem you could ride a Motocrosser there.

Not heavy enough to prevent me from picking it up or hauling it out of the mud. The slow turning matches my speed as do the brakes. Some proper linings and centring the shoes etc etc would probably make them ok for my riding. Last time I was on a motocrosser it ended badly. Given my aversion to pain a TL 250 would be ok... only thing I might miss is the electric leg in case it stalls while I’m teetering on the side of some ledge... or I’m melting my brie over the campfire and some amorous grizzly decides to take a shine to me.
Man, that thing looks cool.

Nothing like that around here though.

I'm still trying to get this little 100 dialed in......thinking I may have to pull the engine "again" and have the head rebuilt, or at least check the valve seats.

Keeps fouling plugs.
Before you tear into the engine, try and take a few good closeup photos of the plugs. You need to determine if they are fouling because of oil consumption or running too rich. Worn guides or rings can cause the oil problem. Too rich it could just be the carb float level, seat leaking, wrong jets etc , but a weak spark will also allow the plugs to foul and look like it’s running rich.

If you can’t get a decent photo, have a look around the net for info on plug reading. Things have changed because of ethanol and generally crap fuel, but you can likely figure out if it’s oil or too rich that is causing the problem. Do you have the correct plug?

You can disconnect the black and white wire from the kill switch to temporary eliminate it from the system if you end up suspecting the ignition. It’s rare, but sometimes they can have some continuity to ground when they shouldn’t.. causes weak spark and the plug will foul. Before you do that, as Trials said make sure the points are ok and the condenser is also ok..... assuming you have points in there.

Ps.... unfortunately you can’t assume all is well with your new aftermarket carb, You can’t even assume the numbers on the jets have any bearing on what they actually flow.
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New spark plug, fires but sputters some.

Filled the tank all the way.......runs great. No sputter, no hesitation, gits up and goes.

So bottom line, may be carb issue. huh?

I have the original carb, and am rebuildin it.

We'll see.
Or you could just clean the screen on the fuel tap.

Ps.. make sure the cap vent is clear while you’re at it.
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