Cafe Racer Forum banner

My little CB100

11697 Views 73 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  madcow87
2
Picked this thing up a few years ago..................

Attachments

See less See more
1 - 3 of 74 Posts
You have no idea what high insurance rates are, up here if you were a new rider trying to insure and plate that old 125, you would be looking at several thousands of dollars annually.
Blame the attorneys, greedy customers and insurance companies. (but mostly attorneys ) A friend in Britain has a Porsche Boxter that only costs around $250 for 6 months and his 883 Sportster is £83 a year. My stepdaughter had an accident in her car (nothing to do with me or registered in my name) My insurance mare than doubled just because car was registered at the same address. I'm 62 with a totally accident free record (I don't think a speeding ticket in a different country in 1980 counts?)

Ha ha.........never had it filled to know.

Bet it didn't, but might have been the reason for the fried top end.
Almost a certainty.
You'll need to strip oil pump plus check all the passages, restrictors, clutch cover oilways, etc.
Silicon is evil stuff in motorcycle engines
  • Like
Reactions: 1
How old is the battery? If the regulator rectifier are original, get rid of them, thy were pretty crap when new. Bike doesn't have 'self generating' ignition, it needs good battery. Some of The XL variants had a flywheel magneto but I'm just about certain yours doesn't. Not sure if I still have a manual for one, haven't worked on one since around 1985
3
Ps.... unfortunately you can’t assume all is well with your new aftermarket carb, You can’t even assume the numbers on the jets have any bearing on what they actually flow.
That's a good point. If you bought a cheap replacement carb the first thing to do is pull it apart to check everything. As pointed out, E10 fuel is slightly less dense than non - ethanol fuel so increasing float level by 1mm would be a good idea. If it's a points motor, it will be grounding when points are closed, completing circuit through ignition coil. If it's a later electronic ignition it won't have battery power to system. (unlikely unless someone modified parts to fit 100) It would be simple enough to check voltage at points when they are open, should be very close to battery voltage, within 0.5v. Anything more (1.5~2v) shows you have high resistance in wiring or connectors, switch, etc.


See less See more
1 - 3 of 74 Posts
Top