[mitchi]

That was my thought train to. Drilled and tapped a hole, just didn't hold.

Couldn't get a good angle on the shaft, so I found a replacement..........pulled the engine, and went to town...........first time ever going into and splitting an engine.

Wish me luck......

 

[TrialsRider]

Oh my.

Should have made it a keyway and gone with a better lever, much easier and cheaper.
... take pictures of everything you take apart.

 

[CaTacL1sm]

or just weld the kick lever on...

 

[mitchi]

or just weld the kick lever on...

Trust me......seriously considered, till I thought about cleaning the rotor filter out during oil changes.

 

[mitchi]

Well, got the engine rebuilt with new kicker. Reinstalled, and running.

Been wiring the lights and stuff. Got a cb160 headlight bucket, now need a speedometer to fit in there. (one that works for a decent price)

Not really worried if the ratio is not the same.

 

[jcw]

Late to the party, but I would have put a couple spot welds on the outside that you could grind off if you wanted to remove the kick lever.

But you did the right thing...

 

[mitchi]

Thanks, it was a good learning experience.

I tore open a CL350 engine at the same time just because I seen a lot of permatex around the edges, and man, what a lot:

 

[TrialsRider]

His day job is at waffle house.

 

[CaTacL1sm]

but did it leak?

 

[mitchi]

but did it leak?

Ha ha.........never had it filled to know.

Bet it didn't, but might have been the reason for the fried top end.

 

[crazypj]

You have no idea what high insurance rates are, up here if you were a new rider trying to insure and plate that old 125, you would be looking at several thousands of dollars annually.

Blame the attorneys, greedy customers and insurance companies. (but mostly attorneys ) A friend in Britain has a Porsche Boxter that only costs around $250 for 6 months and his 883 Sportster is £83 a year. My stepdaughter had an accident in her car (nothing to do with me or registered in my name) My insurance mare than doubled just because car was registered at the same address. I'm 62 with a totally accident free record (I don't think a speeding ticket in a different country in 1980 counts?)

Ha ha.........never had it filled to know.

Bet it didn't, but might have been the reason for the fried top end.

Almost a certainty.
You'll need to strip oil pump plus check all the passages, restrictors, clutch cover oilways, etc.
Silicon is evil stuff in motorcycle engines

 

[mitchi]

Blame the attorneys, greedy customers and insurance companies. (but mostly attorneys ) A friend in Britain has a Porsche Boxter that only costs around $250 for 6 months and his 883 Sportster is £83 a year. My stepdaughter had an accident in her car (nothing to do with me or registered in my name) My insurance mare than doubled just because car was registered at the same address. I'm 62 with a totally accident free record (I don't think a speeding ticket in a different country in 1980 counts?)



Almost a certainty.
You'll need to strip oil pump plus check all the passages, restrictors, clutch cover oilways, etc.
Silicon is evil stuff in motorcycle engines

Agree with the "greed"......pure greed.

Yep, the pump and all pieces of this engine have been disassembled and cleaned, fortunately I only had to use this as a training aide.

I'm building a CB350 engine at the moment. Very slowly I might add.

 

[mitchi]

Geeesh.....this little thing is giving me the fits.

Rode it around the hood the other night, parked it. Tried to start it last night, after work, would not fire up. Kicked and kicked and kicked.

Pulled the plug, cleaned it, and fired up. Rode it around the yard and when i turned the lights on and used the turn signal, she seem to sputter, and want to die.

So turned off the lights ran fine till i got close to the porch , where I keep it, she spit and sputtered dead.

Carb and possible stator problems......???????????????????????

Thoughts?????

 

[TrialsRider]

Check the obvious first: spark at the plug?
Stator is easy enough to meter test but only if the problem is your battery going dead loss.
Carb might always be a problem :| it's an old carburetor and gasoline is not what it used to be.


... plus you have an old steel fuel tank and not an old aluminum fuel tank.

 

[TrialsRider]

Did you set the valve clearances? Makes a huge difference on the small Honda motors if it is done well, if it is done poorly the bike will be hard to start etc. etc.
Compression test is one way to see if you are close,
or when it starts to run really really well right after you set it

 

[crazypj]

How old is the battery? If the regulator rectifier are original, get rid of them, thy were pretty crap when new. Bike doesn't have 'self generating' ignition, it needs good battery. Some of The XL variants had a flywheel magneto but I'm just about certain yours doesn't. Not sure if I still have a manual for one, haven't worked on one since around 1985

 

[mitchi]

Battery is new, new after market carb. New harness.

Looked at the valve adjustment, not sure if they are set right, feelers are too big to fit.

Plus, how would you hold this after adjustment. Doesn't have the slot for a screwdriver?

Thanks for the responses, will try to look at everything y'alls said.

Any recommendations on the regulator/rectifier?

 

[TrialsRider]

Battery is new, new after market carb. New harness.

Looked at the valve adjustment, not sure if they are set right, feelers are too big to fit.

Plus, how would you hold this after adjustment. Doesn't have the slot for a screwdriver?

...

Ya, you can't really measure them for tolerance, you just adjust them correctly and it's done. Reasoning being that the clearance gap is a plus or minus tolerance and it is not feasible to measure a gap that is one thou under using a feeler gauge.

That square screw head on the top is the same size as a Robertson head screw.
Screw a square head screw into one end of a wooden stick and you have the perfect tool to hold it during adjustment of the lock nut.

... looks a little rusty in there where parts should only see oil and not rust.

 

[Cyorg]

This is what the factory tool looks like. Centre piece fits on the square bit, other piece on the lock nut. So you can hold the adjuster in place while you tighten the nut. They make longer feeler gauges with a bend on the end so you can get in there. If there is any wear or pitting on the end of the valve stem, it’s better to adjust them without the feeler gauge. If the stem is worn, the.gauge slides over top of pitting and gives you a false reading. You can just “lightly” snug down the adjuster to take out any clearance and then back it off a 1/4 turn or whatever works out to .002

Might want to sort out your charging system first.

 

[TrialsRider]

lol mine is extreme Ichiban compared to that.
... to get a nice bend in the feeler gauge was the only hard part.