quote:no, i just kinda of sprayed them out and sprayed out the jets and stuff, they were so pristine it didn't look like it needed doing.
If they are actually as clean as you said they were then it should be ok.
quote: uhh... i am quite sure i didn't do that...
I found those settings in my manual ( 18.5/0.73 float bowl and 1 turn for the pilot screw) but i didn't even think to do it. i was just following the manual and it never said anything like that.
Well I think that may be your biggest problem. The air bleed screws affect the idle, setting them up properly would probably get you close to a running idling bike. Keep in mind these bikes are somewhat cold natured and may not idle properly until fully warmed up. Also carbs are designed to leak when they get too full, that is what the float controls. If the float height is not set properly the carbs will leak as designed. Could be as slow as a drip or as fast as you or I take a piss. The manual should get you close.
quote:...no...
they seemed okay, and honestly i was just trying to see if it was going to work at all.
They may be ok but I woudl check them for weep. Keep a rag handy and any place that looks wet dry it off. If it looks wet a few mintues later then replace the gasket.
quote:meaning i need to look around and see if i didn't put something on correctly? there are four tubes that come out of the carbs. two big and two small. the two big go to the petcock but i have no idea where the 2 small ones go. are they just drainage or something? my manual sucks, it doesnt say anything about it.
Not completely sure what carbs are stock on your bike but if you are seeing two sets of upright nozzles one larger than the other the smaller one may be for vacuum. I don't have a manual in front of me for the 360 so the vacuum can either work the petcock, or it connects to the engine and works the cv slides. There should also be a nozzle on the bottom that the float bowl leaks fuel out of when it overfils.
quote:
yeah, but i suspect the guy had a problem with it before hand, e.g. it stopped running and then he decided to sell.
May be a timing issue. Check the timing and points, most of the time when someone can't figure it out and lays up the bike it is electrical. Also these bikes are kinda known for bad or intermittent grounds so take a good look at all the contacts and clean any that look suspect.
quote:not yet. the oil seemed passable and i was just trying to get it started.
Now it has started - you know it runs, time to do the preventative maintenance. Change the oil and run a magnet through it. See if there are any shavings you should be wary of. Inspect the filter too. Now would be a good time to switch to synthetic oil, My hondas love it.
New plugs are not just piece of mind they are a tuning tool. Learning how to read plugs is one of the great things about old vehicles that new EFI stuff has sent packing. YOu can learn a lot from a plug chop test as well as your old plugs. Also go to an auto parts store and get an inline plug tester - might as well see if those wires need help too.
quote:i have been using the choke, and it sounds like it is Almost going to start and then won't.
Set the air bleed screws, give her two cranks of the throttle and hit the starter. it may just be that that is your problem with start up (with the air bleed screws closed you have no idle). Every bike has character and this includes start up procedures, you just need to figure out what your bike needs to run.
Also the needle you had to put back in, was it a primary jet or a slide needle? If it is a slide needle it should have different position markings and be shaped like an actual needle and held in by a circlip. Pay close attention to those markings as the needle height is important to your part throttle operation. If it is the primary jet or float needle you need to find out why it came out. It happens from time to time but it is better to pay close attention to make sure it is not striped in there.
