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No man thats not a rickman, thats not even a sohc bike

Build the bike you want, but guys here can tell you how to really make that thing perform if you want to get serious about that.
like: Your rear springs are progressive wound, don't bother painting them, if the shocks are staying and still work which might be amazing, you would want to be replacing those, progressives are for a cushy ride, not performance.

Those bikes are turds, you couldn't ride that far or fast, sorry but to a serious motorcycle rider that's an abortion.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I know that's not a rickman...I'm not going for the rickman look. The pic is what I'm going after. I know that's a second gen dohc. I'm just using it as what I want mine to be similar to. Shocks, forks, everything is going out the door man.
 

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Rickman wasn't just a look, their stuff was top shelf product at the time. They had upgrades for your entire motorcycle. Because there was lots of room for upgrade even then :cool:

I'm beat, rode a 6 hour trial in the worst mud sections imaginable today, rode up a line, crashed lots
fenders were required.
 

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Not to put too fine a point on it, the bike you are buying is a mess and the inspiration is non-functional. Faux rust, post pocky clips BS. You cannot ride safely with clip ons and off road knobby tires. What happened to actual cafe racers?

And a 110v TIG is a perfectly capable hot glue gun. Fine for welding frames.

I'm out.
 

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The Rickman look is frame tube welds done by a professional with the most care possible,
1970's era Honda OEM frames were built in a hurry to mass produce bikes cheap and fast as possible. A task that Honda excelled in at the time.
 

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I looked up rickman. That's nothing like what I'm shooting for. I'm going for this look but with forced rusted metal parts. Of course they will be sealed with clear coat...or I might do bare metal. View attachment 103737
What a *** art project. Point me in the direction of one single upgrade on this abortion; and if you say the powder coat paint on the frame and improperly installed front forks :/ no comment.


I think I see the problem, :cautious: these guys are looking at motorcycle still pictures instead of riding them.

If you actually rode that bike you would find it runs like crap with an open header and the crankcase vent spews black oil residue across the top of your engine which will be coated with road debris and dog poop spray from both tires. The rear stock shocks will soak up tiny road bumps like a cruiser and the front forks will bottom out prematurely on anything bigger then a road ripple.
 

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I looked up rickman. That's nothing like what I'm shooting for. I'm going for this look but with forced rusted metal parts. Of course they will be sealed with clear coat...or I might do bare metal. View attachment 103737
HI BB, I wont jerk your chain. I've built a ton of stuff from the ground up and some have started from a pile of parts that you needed to stop at CostCo and buy storage boxes to use to haul the bits home.

When I look at something like what you picture here what I'm seeing in a stack of parts that just happen to be screwed together. There's good and bad in that kind of deal. The good you wont need any storage bokes 'cause you can roll the sucker. The bad is that it looks like a motorbike and this can fool you. So here's my advice. You are really buying a pile of parts that is just well organized ! Look at how the finish work is done. If a frame tube is cut off it may not be a bad thing but was the raw edge filed and sanded smooth ? Anything you can't see doesn't exist; rebuild engines, new wheel bearings, overhauled suspension. This is unless it happened yesterday and it has some kind of serial number on it and then only if it doesn't also have number plates.

If that pile of parts is worth a grand to you then go for it !
It may well be a good deal what I do is as I'm looking the thing over I kind of add up the bits in my head, like the wheels are $25 a piece the seat is $50 the pod filters are worth $10 used. When I'm done then I make the offer.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #29
HI BB, I wont jerk your chain. I've built a ton of stuff from the ground up and some have started from a pile of parts that you needed to stop at CostCo and buy storage boxes to use to haul the bits home.

When I look at something like what you picture here what I'm seeing in a stack of parts that just happen to be screwed together. There's good and bad in that kind of deal. The good you wont need any storage bokes 'cause you can roll the sucker. The bad is that it looks like a motorbike and this can fool you. So here's my advice. You are really buying a pile of parts that is just well organized ! Look at how the finish work is done. If a frame tube is cut off it may not be a bad thing but was the raw edge filed and sanded smooth ? Anything you can't see doesn't exist; rebuild engines, new wheel bearings, overhauled suspension. This is unless it happened yesterday and it has some kind of serial number on it and then only if it doesn't also have number plates.

If that pile of parts is worth a grand to you then go for it !
It may well be a good deal what I do is as I'm looking the thing over I kind of add up the bits in my head, like the wheels are $25 a piece the seat is $50 the pod filters are worth $10 used. When I'm done then I make the offer.

Cheers
I bought it for 500...it's mine and in garage. Very minimal rust on the subframe. Just surface. Fuel was leaking from cylinder on left most side while sitting on bike. Found the jet fell off and was hanging up the float. I cleaned out all the float bowls jets. Set float levels at 26mm. Bottom end is clean and set now.
Removed plugs and cleaned. Will replace with new ngks soon. I have spark on all cylinders. Bike cranks but wont start. It seems to be running rich. It came with my cb750 book, haynes and a rear hoop with led. Drained fuel,put in new fuel. Kinda stumped on where to go with crank no start
 

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Discussion Starter #30
HI BB, I wont jerk your chain. I've built a ton of stuff from the ground up and some have started from a pile of parts that you needed to stop at CostCo and buy storage boxes to use to haul the bits home.

When I look at something like what you picture here what I'm seeing in a stack of parts that just happen to be screwed together. There's good and bad in that kind of deal. The good you wont need any storage bokes 'cause you can roll the sucker. The bad is that it looks like a motorbike and this can fool you. So here's my advice. You are really buying a pile of parts that is just well organized ! Look at how the finish work is done. If a frame tube is cut off it may not be a bad thing but was the raw edge filed and sanded smooth ? Anything you can't see doesn't exist; rebuild engines, new wheel bearings, overhauled suspension. This is unless it happened yesterday and it has some kind of serial number on it and then only if it doesn't also have number plates.

If that pile of parts is worth a grand to you then go for it !
It may well be a good deal what I do is as I'm looking the thing over I kind of add up the bits in my head, like the wheels are $25 a piece the seat is $50 the pod filters are worth $10 used. When I'm done then I make the offer.

Cheers
Side note it's main jetted at 140 and pilot jet at 40
 

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You bought a bike that does not run well, first thing to do is to make it run, like rich46 says, many things need to be inspected beginning with
:| well realistically almost everything covered in that service manual. You might as well start by memorizing that.
Compression test is in order and easy enough once you have a gauge. That will identify any serious problems and you can't balance carburetors if your compression is not close to same on all cylinders.

Is this the first time you have cleaned and serviced motorcycle carburetors?
 

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Plug wires are not mixed up?

"cranks but wont start. It seems to be running rich"
can't do both, it either runs rich or it does not run.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
You bought a bike that does not run well, first thing to do is to make it run, like rich46 says, many things need to be inspected beginning with
:| well realistically almost everything covered in that service manual. You might as well start by memorizing that.
Compression test is in order and easy enough once you have a gauge. That will identify any serious problems and you can't balance carburetors if your compression is not close to same on all cylinders.

Is this the first time you have cleaned and serviced motorcycle carburetors?
I plan on testing compression. I just got the bike so yes, first time I've cleaned them. I'm going to go through EVERYTHING just trying to figure out where to start
 

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No I mean like have you ever cleaned and serviced motorcycle carburetors in your life?
I've had to do one carburetor seven times in a row before I finally got it working good, just before an event. Guys on here have been servicing bike carbs for 50 years and the likes.

Seriously, read that whole manual, there is a check list to follow or you got a crap manual.
... and imho haynes does make a crap rewrite of the OEM manuals.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
No I mean like have you ever cleaned and serviced motorcycle carburetors in your life?
I've had to do one carburetor seven times in a row before I finally got it working good, just before an event. Guys on here have been servicing bike carbs for 50 years and the likes.

Seriously, read that whole manual, there is a check list to follow or you got a crap manual.
... and imho haynes does make a crap rewrite of the OEM manuals.
I have the my cb750 manual. I have serviced car and truck carbs. I'm new to the multi carb setup and synching. Where can I find the checklist?
 

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No I mean like have you ever cleaned and serviced motorcycle carburetors in your life?
I've had to do one carburetor seven times in a row before I finally got it working good, just before an event. Guys on here have been servicing bike carbs for 50 years and the likes.

Seriously, read that whole manual, there is a check list to follow or you got a crap manual.
... and imho haynes does make a crap rewrite of the OEM manuals.
Yea BB like TR says you need to just go through the manual as if you were going to do a major service. Remember getting the thing running could be the worst thing you could do if you don't check out all the systems meaning the brakes and steering.
If it was me I'd get it cranking over, put a wee bit of oil in the holes and just spin it. Next I do a leak-down test. I'm betting you don't have the equipment for that so do a compression test record the pressure check the specs as to what it should be (hope for 90%) and see if all the cylinders are within 10% of each other.. One cheap thing you can do as to leak-down is get a spark plug sized fitting and some hose get each cylinder to TDC (top dead center) and put air pressure to the hole. Then all you will need to do is listen at the carbs and tail pipe. If you hear air escaping then you have problems if it's exhaust or carburetors tells you which side of the engine is at fault.
As TR said you can't do anything until it makes engine noises. I do not think it's leaking fuel out of the engine more likely it's coming out of the needle housing and/or you have a float stuck. Remember it most often wont start because of an electrical problem. You can get an engine to pop even without the carbs if you have spark. carburetors make them run crappy or only just fart and pop. Electrics will do some of that but when they don't do anything that's usually where the trouble is.
 

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I have the my cb750 manual. I have serviced car and truck carbs. I'm new to the multi carb setup and synching. Where can I find the checklist?
The original equipment service manuals all have it under "trouble-shooting"
is the Honda service manual available free online anywhere? Seriously, I could probably read it in a couple hours :|
OEM Service manuals are awesome, you should buy one immediately for every motorcycle you ever buy.

... 4 carburetors; you are going to need to balance the carbs as well as getting it running on all cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Yea BB like TR says you need to just go through the manual as if you were going to do a major service. Remember getting the thing running could be the worst thing you could do if you don't check out all the systems meaning the brakes and steering.
If it was me I'd get it cranking over, put a wee bit of oil in the holes and just spin it. Next I do a leak-down test. I'm betting you don't have the equipment for that so do a compression test record the pressure check the specs as to what it should be (hope for 90%) and see if all the cylinders are within 10% of each other.. One cheap thing you can do as to leak-down is get a spark plug sized fitting and some hose get each cylinder to TDC (top dead center) and put air pressure to the hole. Then all you will need to do is listen at the carbs and tail pipe. If you hear air escaping then you have problems if it's exhaust or carburetors tells you which side of the engine is at fault.
As TR said you can't do anything until it makes engine noises. I do not think it's leaking fuel out of the engine more likely it's coming out of the needle housing and/or you have a float stuck. Remember it most often wont start because of an electrical problem. You can get an engine to pop even without the carbs if you have spark. carburetors make them run crappy or only just fart and pop. Electrics will do some of that but when they don't do anything that's usually where the trouble is.
I have compression tester.i don't have leak down. I can get it to fart and pop when trying to start. I cleared and cleaned the float bowls and adjusted all floats to 26mm spec. I know I'm hoping for 90%compression and 10% difference. The leak down will be the hardest part. I have not pulled the carbs off the rack and checked the needles. That's actually what I'm a bit afraid of because syncing them seems like a bitch. I want to get it running and then I will start working on chain, brakes, wiring etc. So next I'll do compression test...then what do you recommend? Leak down or check needles?
 
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