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"Pod filters cleaned"

How do you clean a pod filter,
is it a paper pod or K&N oiled felt or a foam over wire mesh?
 

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Discussion Starter #63
"Pod filters cleaned"

How do you clean a pod filter,
is it a paper pod or K&N oiled felt or a foam over wire mesh?
Well they are K&N reusable filters...just like the other panel filters K&N makes. You rinse, dry with compressed air and oil. I'll double check my haynes and my cb750. I didn't see it and I'm working on reading these cover to cover
 

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:cool: Filters looked like they never seen oil. What did the PO put on it for a crankcase filter?
that one probably seen plenty of oil.

Ah CB750 haynes manual, a riveting read, what's it like, I think I last looked at that book in the St.Lawrance college library about 30 years ago, a re-write of the Honda manual with all the diagrams replaced by really bad black and white photos, is that the one, or did they upgrade it?
 

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Discussion Starter #65
I haven't done an engine oil change yet. I just made sure it's full. Once I get it at least semi running I will swap it out. What do you recommend for engine oil and filter? K&N oil filter?

That's the one! The haynes ain't too good. The mycb750 is a REALLY great book. I am loving that so far. I got a hard cover with the bike. The my cb book doesn't give a definitive on oil. I will be running it during colder months but it's still nice in colorado
 

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Any oil filter is good enough if you change it frequently enough.
Filters remove dirt from the air and oil which is critical to the longevity of your motors operation, but this is a very old and used bike! You have no idea of how much dirt has already gone through this motor or what damage has already been caused. Spending extra money on higher priced filters and twice the price synthetic oils at this point is questionable value at best, the bike has survived up until now on stock filters and conventional motor oil.

7 out of 10 time the front forks will have oil in them that is older then the guy buying it.

Your crankcase should vent into the air box where it can expel gasses and oil mist residue that gets blown out of the crankcase from piston blow-by. If the crankcase is not vented (with clean air), you can create positive pressures in there that will hasten the consumption of motor oil and contribute to lose of power. ... ever drive a car with a plugged PCV valve? they run like shite.

Try and find an OEM service manual if you can, they are a whole lot better and less likely to contain the incorrect information that Might pop up in a lesser manual. Personally, I'd rather have an OEM manual written in a foreign language then a poor re-write written in english.

CB750 starts pretty good in the cold, but they handle something terrible on ice and snow.
 

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I'd warm your pan with a little heater and change the oil now. There is no sense in pushing dead oil and sludge through the system for $25 in parts. I change the oil before I fire up an old bike and again after I have put a couple hundred miles on, then start my maintenance schedule from there.
 

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2-day provincial round trial at my house this weekend :cool:
The one in October has been canceled mostly due to covid concerns.
Sure hope we get a lot of freezing rain again this year.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Any oil filter is good enough if you change it frequently enough.
Filters remove dirt from the air and oil which is critical to the longevity of your motors operation, but this is a very old and used bike! You have no idea of how much dirt has already gone through this motor or what damage has already been caused. Spending extra money on higher priced filters and twice the price synthetic oils at this point is questionable value at best, the bike has survived up until now on stock filters and conventional motor oil.

7 out of 10 time the front forks will have oil in them that is older then the guy buying it.

Your crankcase should vent into the air box where it can expel gasses and oil mist residue that gets blown out of the crankcase from piston blow-by. If the crankcase is not vented (with clean air), you can create positive pressures in there that will hasten the consumption of motor oil and contribute to lose of power. ... ever drive a car with a plugged PCV valve? they run like shite.

Try and find an OEM service manual if you can, they are a whole lot better and less likely to contain the incorrect information that Might pop up in a lesser manual. Personally, I'd rather have an OEM manual written in a foreign language then a poor re-write written in english.

CB750 starts pretty good in the cold, but they handle something terrible on ice and snow.
You recommend 10w40? The crankcase vent looks like it has some weird spinning plug in it. I'll snap a pic
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Okay. Update. Oil and plugs changed. New battery installed. Fires up and got the carbs running pretty well with air screws at about 1 turn out. Not sure what to do with the screw at the rear of the carbs on the rack. Still need to sync....here's the issue. Had an old shit battery in it. I had a charger on it...while it was still connected(worried I fried regulator/rectifier) installed new battery fired right up. Ran for decent(maybe a bit lean)2 and a half minutes then it died. When I tried to fire it back up I got no crank. Sounds like battery with no charge. Jumped it with jump box starts and then dies. Any thoughts??
 

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Holy! I'm going to need to read that 4 more times and think about it. So much progress and then poop.

"here's the issue. Had an old shit battery in it. I had a charger on it...while it was still connected(worried I fried regulator/rectifier)
... not seeing what you did to fry anything.

So this is a brand new full charged battery now? and the bike makes it go completely flat in minutes?
That don't seem possible, something sould get fierce hot enough to notice.
... once it dies I take it you have no spark at the plug.
 
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